i'm building a track civic and i wanna put my battery in the back .... i got the relocation kit and all but waht my question is .... in the engine bay there is 2 weries that go to positvie cable .... 1. starter 2. fuse box .... so when i out my battery in the back do i just run a wire to the starter or do i have to run one to the fuse box too ? and a second question is .... i heard that i have to install a shut off switch on the battery .... why , where do i hook it up and where can i get one ....

If anyone has a pic of how they did all this or any pics of it it'd be really helpfull
thanx ...

 

you needa run wires to the starter AND fusebox. you also needa run a relay to kill the WHOLE car when switched to off for safety reasons. some will not let you run unless you have it some will give you a warning.

 

I ran my positive cable to a fused distribution block under the battery holder. From the distro block, one wire to the fuse box and the other to the starter.

 

You really ought to try the search function... it's pretty helpful. There was a whole battery relocation thread not too long ago and this whole area has been covered amny times before (like everything else....)

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1131532

 

Don't forget your gonna have to bolt it directly to the frame, anyone have pics ? I was looking over it quick and my muffler is in the way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't forget your gonna have to bolt it directly to the frame, anyone have pics ? I was looking over it quick and my muffler is in the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

gimme a sec, gonna run out to the car and snap some pics for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

gimme a sec, gonna run out to the car and snap some pics for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks

And about searcing, that reply is getting old. 3 out of 5 post I click on all have the replies search, search , search

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And about searcing, that reply is getting old. 3 out of 5 post I click on all have the replies search, search , search</TD></TR></TABLE>

You know what, that link I gave that guy had the answer to each question he asked! It took me 30 seconds to put the word battery into the search engine and find that post..... He didn't even botther, 'cause it's easier to have someone spoon feed you the answer. I have answer the same D-series Vtec swap questions on here a half dozen times this week alone. I don't mind answer questions and am very thankful for the answer I gotten to mine, but at the very least some people on this board need to take the time and look.... THE ANSWERS ARE ALL HERE!


Modified by Aragorn at 8:52 PM 3/12/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aragorn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You know what, that link I gave that guy had the answer to each question he asked! It took me 30 seconds to put the word battery into the search engine and find that post..... He didn't even botther, 'cause it's easier to have someone spoon feed you the answer. I have answer the same D-series Vtec swap questions on here a half dozen times this week alone. I don't mend answer questions and am very thankful for the answer I gotten to mine, but at the very least some people on this board need to take the time and look.... THE ANSWERS ARE ALL HERE!</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, I was just venting in general

 

90blackcrx,

Here is my setup, the brackets, box and 2 gauge wire were out of the summit relocate kit.. I had to buy the long bolts and washers for the hold down and an extra nylon nut and bolt for my ground wire. The long bolts have nylon bolts on top too, and these nuts came with the summit kit. You cant see it but underneath that battery is a foam pad. I dont need the box, because the battery is sealed. But if a techie at the track gives me trouble I just throw the box on and run a strap underneath the battery and around the outside of the box.



that cylinder looking thing is my 100A fuse holder.. I dont like it cause I need a 10mm socket to swap fuses




should probably have turned the nut and bolt upside down


summit box with a big chunk cut out of the corner


backside sealed with layers of packing tape, LOTS of RTV silicone sealant and painted with black spray paint.






Modified by BlueShadow at 5:58 PM 3/12/2005

 

Thanks

I just redid mine but instead of bolting threw the frame, I made a wooden templet ( copied the black plastic piece back there ) then welded a bracket underneeth with the studs sticking threw it, this way I take the 2 nuts out and the battery comes out. Also I bolted the piece of wood down to the spare tire piece, if it was not like 10 degrees out, I would take everything out and take pics. Great setup if your not gonna run at the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True, I was just venting in general</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me too.... sorry, 'cause it's also always the guy with 1 post who joined yesterday.....

On a more serious note, when I checked the NHRA site it seemed to indicate the need for a battery box no matter what (sealed battery or not). Does anyone know if that's true?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks

I just redid mine but instead of bolting threw the frame, I made a wooden templet ( copied the black plastic piece back there ) then welded a bracket underneeth with the studs sticking threw it, this way I take the 2 nuts out and the battery comes out. Also I bolted the piece of wood down to the spare tire piece, if it was not like 10 degrees out, I would take everything out and take pics. Great setup if your not gonna run at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

np, I must be the king of ghetto installs. I ripped up the passenger side carpet covering up the cable, and the distribution block isn't in the best place. The thing I dont like is the fuse holder...I want something that does not need tools to work. The box was just made up for track days. I can just throw it on top of the battery, through the square hole I vut out. I can put some large diameter vacuum lines through the lid and run it through my trunk or something to "vent" the bad battery gas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aragorn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Me too.... sorry, 'cause it's also always the guy with 1 post who joined yesterday.....

On a more serious note, when I checked the NHRA site it seemed to indicate the need for a battery box no matter what (sealed battery or not). Does anyone know if that's true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its true, I have the rule book and I actually posted the pic in that other topic you speak of, but I took it down.

 

Thanks.... I really want to relocate my battery . Mostly to clean up my engine compartment, but also to shift some weight to the back. Now I'm going to have to take all that into consideration too, because I want my car to be track legal too.... A small battery like a Hawker sounds cool, but there's something about the CCA that concerns me....