Problem:
This block was bought several months ago. It had some lube or grease on the walls but it started drying up and rusting. 90k miles.

Question:
Will it be safe to slap on the head and run it like that? or what do you guys recommend?









TIA

 

I'd say just put it all together and go for it! Tell us if it works out...

What do you have to lose? If worse comes to worst, you'll just have to hone the cylinders and get a new set of rings, maybe even new pistons. But why not try it out first as it is anyway before you do any of that?

 

When ur in doubt REBUILD!! If i was in ur shoes, that looks like a good reason to find an LS crank, rods, and some 82mm p30 pistons. Bore out to 82mm and get urself a 200+ whp LS vtec. The proper way to build a LS vtec.

 

dont mean to be a dick but i stated its a GSR block so no LS-V here.

 

Yeah...that thing is going to need a rebuild IMHO.

Here's what I would do:

.25 over JDM ITR pistons w/ rings $300 tops
ARP rod bolts $60
ACL bearings $90

Here's what I pay for machine work.

Press rod bolts in $40
Press piston pins in $34
Bore, Hone and clean $105

$629 for a brand new 11.1:1 shortblock

Trust me on this one, spend the time and money to do it right the first time around.

 

if its already out of ur car. then hone it. and rebuid it. it wont be worth it later after u swapped it in and it doesnt work or breaks down in a few minutes. just my 2 cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madtownhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah...that thing is going to need a rebuild IMHO.

Here's what I would do:

.25 over JDM ITR pistons w/ rings $300 tops
ARP rod bolts $60
ACL bearings $90

Here's what I pay for machine work.

Press rod bolts in $40
Press piston pins in $34
Bore, Hone and clean $105

$629 for a brand new 11.1:1 shortblock

Trust me on this one, spend the time and money to do it right the first time around. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I just don't know why everyone wants to immediately go with oversized pistons. You should only overbore the block when the cylinders are damaged beyond repair with a hone. If you can clean it up with a hone, there is no need to go and bore it over "just because".

 

clean all the **** off. and see what youve got before assumbing that it needs to be rebuilt

 

hey guys thanks for the responses so far, the block is actually mine, my brother just posted it up for me last nite cause i had to go to sleep...
As far as the walls go would there be a problem cleaning out the walls with lets say a lint free rag and some oil to get that rust off? also if i do decide to hone im planning on getting new piston rings on same pistons(for now), arp rod bolts, and the bearings ACL or OEM wat do you guys think?

TIA

 

sounds good the lint free rag should work, I would go with the oem bearings

 

If the surface rust isn't removed from the cylinder walls it will act like sandpaper on the piston rings and you will lose sealing ability. Have the cylinders re-honed at the very least and install some new rings while the engine is out so you don't have to go through the extra hassle and expense later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pontiac power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">clean all the **** off. and see what youve got before assumbing that it needs to be rebuilt</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madtownhonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Here's what I pay for machine work.

Press rod bolts in $40
Press piston pins in $34
Bore, Hone and clean $105

Trust me on this one, spend the time and money to do it right the first time around. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know were you get your work done but the shops I've looked into charge a lot more then that. I'd expect more like double to triple those prices.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andres-eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont mean to be a dick but i stated its a GSR block so no LS-V here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he said go with an ls crank, thats how it becomes and lsvtec.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 6ghatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know were you get your work done but the shops I've looked into charge a lot more then that. I'd expect more like double to triple those prices.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the bore and hone might be a little low, but other than that those prices are dead on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I just don't know why everyone wants to immediately go with oversized pistons. You should only overbore the block when the cylinders are damaged beyond repair with a hone. If you can clean it up with a hone, there is no need to go and bore it over "just because".</TD></TR></TABLE>

to GUARANTEE that the sleeves are perfectly round.


if it were me i would spend a little extra time and a little extra money to get myself a fresh block

 

What the ****, he asked if it was okay to throw the head on and run it like that. and you guys are just like, better get a new block. I see no scoring on the cylinder walls. and they can easily be cleaned up. I guarentee that rust will come right off.

 

razor blades and non-chlorinated brake clean is your friend

 

You guys are right, he may be able to get away with just an hone and rings. I prefer to know that my cylinders are perfectly round and that I have an acceptable PTW clearance; and ensure good ring seal. You really don't want any uncertainty when building something that requires such precision. Everybody has their opinions.

 

I agree. Personally I would just do a quick hone and new rings. This is just to get in running with decent compression as long as the cylinders are not out of round. If you wanna spend a little more drop it off somewhere and have it rebuilt and it will be pretty solid and reliable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pontiac power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the ****, he asked if it was okay to throw the head on and run it like that. and you guys are just like, better get a new block. I see no scoring on the cylinder walls. and they can easily be cleaned up. I guarentee that rust will come right off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, and we are giving our opinion. is that not ok with you?

there is no straight answer. can he just throw the head on? of course! should he? in my opinion, no.

relax.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pontiac power &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What the ****, he asked if it was okay to throw the head on and run it like that. and you guys are just like, better get a new block. I see no scoring on the cylinder walls. and they can easily be cleaned up. I guarentee that rust will come right off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And if it doesn't and there is ANY kind of pitting on the block, then all his time and money into parts just went out the window to "see" if it would work. To me, it would make more sense to pull the pistons out, hone it up, and verify the surface is good. Otherwise its a gamble. The engine already has 90k miles on it, why not freshen it up anyways?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And if it doesn't and there is ANY kind of pitting on the block, then all his time and money into parts just went out the window to "see" if it would work. To me, it would make more sense to pull the pistons out, hone it up, and verify the surface is good. Otherwise its a gamble. The engine already has 90k miles on it, why not freshen it up anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>

as he stated before, he was only going to get that stuff if he decided he was going to get it honed.

 

thanx for all the responses guys, everyone is definately entitled to their opinion and in this case there isnt a definite right or wrong in my eyes, but im guessing for my own peice of mind i should get a hone done to the block, replace the rings, rodbolts(arp 8mm or 9mm dunno whats the difference !!&gt;??!) and bearings (acl kit from kteller)....what do you guys think???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for all the responses guys, everyone is definately entitled to their opinion and in this case there isnt a definite right or wrong in my eyes, but im guessing for my own peice of mind i should get a hone done to the block, replace the rings, rodbolts(arp 8mm or 9mm dunno whats the difference !!&gt;??!) and bearings (acl kit from kteller)....what do you guys think???</TD></TR></TABLE>

good idea. The motor will be much more reliable as long as it's done right. goodluck.

 

Thanks, i think im going to be calling upon the services of Dan GSR on this one!!!!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlepT ej6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanx for all the responses guys, everyone is definately entitled to their opinion and in this case there isnt a definite right or wrong in my eyes, but im guessing for my own peice of mind i should get a hone done to the block, replace the rings, rodbolts(arp 8mm or 9mm dunno whats the difference !!&gt;??!) and bearings (acl kit from kteller)....what do you guys think???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, that sounds like good idea

i believe 9mm for gsr rods