Which is the best way to adjust theses to the height you want to get them all perfectly even?


Also, are you supposed to lock theses at the height you choose to set them to? Or should I still be able to turn the thing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Eric &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which is the best way to adjust theses to the height you want to get them all perfectly even?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Jack the car up.
2. Adjust one perch where you want it.
3. Lower the car.
4. Measure from the fender lip to the center of the wheel.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until all measurements are even.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, are you supposed to lock theses at the height you choose to set them to?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or should I still be able to turn the thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.

I'd also use a little anti-seize on the threads of the allen bolt so it doesn't seize up in there.

 

Awesome, thanks man!

 

Once you find your final ride height, don't forget to reset all your suspension bushings...

 

reset my suspension bushings?

 

Your bushings are all locked into place for the stock ride height. When you lift the car off the ground & the wheels/suspension droops down, and all the rubber in your bushings get twisted. The same thing happens when you lower your car. Now all the bushings are twisted ALL THE TIME. This leads to premature bushing failure. The easy remedy is to jack up your car & place it on jack stands (one end at a time works fine). Then put your jack under one of the LCAs & jack it up until the car barely lifts off the jack stand. Now loosen every bolt that goes through the center of a bushing. This releases the twist, and zeros out the bushing. Next you just re-torque each bolt back down to spec (while still supported by the jack of course). Move on to the next corner. Every bushing can be done in this way except the giant Trailing Arm bushing, and the inside rear UCA bushings (at the chassis). These ones would need to be pressed out, clocked the correct number of degrees & pressed back in (see link at bottom for "how to"). Since you probably have old bushings, i would wait until you were ready to replace them & just have the new ones pressed in with the proper rotation. Here are some samples of the T/A bushing (sorry for the stolen pics)...

bushing alignment at stock ride height:


bushing alignment at lowered ride height:


You can find this article about T/A bushings here...

 

Wow thanks for the info!


the car was already lowered by a professional. I've just been on winter tires with a slightly lower ride height and want to make sure everything lines up perfectly come next month when the 15's go back on.

 

I've never heard of a shop zeroing out the bushings. I would be carefull if your gonna do it though, a lot of people have a really tough time with those rear LCA bolts.

 

it wasnt a shop. I bought this car off a mechanic who happens to be Chris Tapp. Car had 607whp and ran 11.2

Anyways so its not like i bought it off some shady mechanic. It was his own car that he took care of.

 

i have a set of ground control on my eg and i have no clue on how to adjust it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YayAreal2acer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a set of ground control on my eg and i have no clue on how to adjust it </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. Jack the car up.
2. Adjust one perch where you want it.
3. Lower the car.
4. Measure from the fender lip to the center of the wheel.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 until all measurements are even.</TD></TR></TABLE>

...

 

perch?...wutz tha perch? sorrie if im a newb at suspension

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YayAreal2acer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">perch?...wutz tha perch? sorrie if im a newb at suspension </TD></TR></TABLE>
The gold ring that the spring sits on. It says "Ground Control" and has arrows labeled "UP" and "DOWN" to show you which way to turn it. It threads up and down on the red sleeve.

You loosen the allen bolt that squeezes the perch tight, set it where you want it, then tighten the allen bolt again. (It's a good idea to use some anti-seize compound on the bolt threads so it doesn't seize up in there.)

 

If you want the car perfectly even then the way suggested is good. But even and best handling are two different things.

The main reason to get coilovers is to be able to corner weight the car. What corner weighting does is make the crossweights equal (LF + RR = RF + LR). Equal crossweights gives the best handling for cars that turn both left and right (NASCAR and other circle track cars that only turn left will set there crossweights purposely uneven to give better left turns)

To crossweight the car you need scales and patience. Most race shops have the scales and experience to corner weight your car. If you live in Eastern or Central PA I can recommend several shops (contact me offlince)

regards,
alan