I am about feed up..........I have spark, fuel,compression, and timing is correct.
The car will turn over but will not start. I think I have too much fuel. I have an all motor LS at 13.9:1 CR with 450cc injectors. P75 chipped for DSM 450cc's and SAFC. I have tried from 20psi to 46psi on fuel pressure and -30 on the SAFC. I also checked my wiring. OBD 1 with resistor box added. 2.8 ohms ruffly on each injector and 7 ohms on the resistor box.

Anyone?????

 

yank out those injectors and reistors and try to fire it up on the stock injectors/ECU.

 

The injectors are firing fine.........Even if the injectors were the problem it should at least spit and sputter, then die. But it want do anything.

I redid compression test with the throttle open and got 90psi on cy 1 and 120 on the rest. Again the engine is fresh so the compression should be low. I also noticed air blowing out the throttle body when trying to crank it. I think the valves are not seating good.

 

Can I have this thread moved to all motor?????

 

ttt

 

With 13.9 compression are you using higher octane fuel then 93 octane.I thought when you go above a certain compression you have to you higher octane fuel.See if it will run with starter fluid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeper96 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With 13.9 compression are you using higher octane fuel then 93 octane.I thought when you go above a certain compression you have to you higher octane fuel.See if it will run with starter fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true...however the higher octane only prevents knock, the motor should still start and run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I redid compression test with the throttle open and got 90psi on cy 1 and 120 on the rest. Again the engine is fresh so the compression should be low. I also noticed air blowing out the throttle body when trying to crank it. I think the valves are not seating good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is your problem ... even if you're using cams bigger than toda killers, you should not get that low compression.

So, you need to check the following:
-timing belt with cams at TDC and crank pulley at TDC
-leak the motor down and find out if valves are leaking or rings

other things to check:
-check your oil to see if its high fuel smells, because if it was flooding you're washing cylinders
- check your spark plugs to see if you fouled them out
- how do you know your eprom is setup for 440cc injectors ?
- recheck your sfc wirign for map sensor

At this point you have a problem with the motor ... after you've fixed that then put stock injectors in there and take off the jumper a J1 on your honda ecu ... start up with 43psi fuel pressure and zero out your SFC.

LOL by accident I clicked the wrong forum and came in this one ... hope it helped but try to get into the all motor forum, prolly get better help there.

Greg

 

I plan on running 108+ but for right now the tank has 93 in it. I was going to let the rings seat with the 93 that was left in the tank. But yes it should fire with 93. I also sprayed starter fuid in the TB and it still would not start. I am going to pull the head off and have the valves relapped. This is the only thing I can think of.

 

lower octane fuel is easier to ignite than high octane {duh} therefore it would be easier to start the motor on it.....

anyhoo sounds like your high compression motor had insufficient valve to piston clearence on that cylinder with 90 psi. if cyl's 1 and/or 4 are dead the motors usually wont start, however if 2/3 are dead itll usually still start and run half decently. oh yeah, have you clayed the motor to check valve to piston clearence? as well as valve to valve clearence if they are oversized. int and exh can hit each other esp with mismarked cam gears...

other than that you might have the firing order completely effed up

oh yeah you can check the seats yourself, use a socket and a hammer to pop the retainers off if you dont have the right tool. KEEP THE VALVES AND RELATED **** IN ORDER PERTAINING to what valve it came off and where that valve was, egg cartons are great for this clean the valves and seats of all oil and crap. dye the seat and valve with a sharpie or blue permanent marker. slide the valve in the guide {with a drop of oil} and snap it shut on the seat a few times. DONT TWIST THE VALVE on the seat like you would when lapping them. after a good few wacks on the seat you will see the margin and where it sits ont he seat and valve so you can decide if it needs to be lapped or not {if its really effed up take it to a machine shop, also spin the valves in a drill to make sure they arent bent}...... you can get valve lapping compound/tool and machinistis dye at the autoparts store cheap. **** paying a machine shop

 

Yea, I know. I know! lol. Yes I clayed the engine.......0.103'' intake valve to piston and 0.145'' exhaust valve to piston. Factory sized valves. I found the problem, Not one of the valves were seated because I removed the intake mani and Exhaust main and pumped air in the cy and all the air was coming out of the ports. I thought the valves may have been cut wrong so I removed the cy head and pored gasoline in the ports......Not one bit dripped out so I think the valves just need lapping. I will further investigate and let you guys know.

Thank You!!!

 

its not something you overlooked like whether the spark is firing at the correct point, is it? You can have all the spark you want, but if its firing after the exhaust stroke it dont mean a thang'

Rich

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, I know. I know! lol. Yes I clayed the engine.......0.103'' intake valve to piston and 0.145'' exhaust valve to piston. Factory sized valves. I found the problem, Not one of the valves were seated because I removed the intake mani and Exhaust main and pumped air in the cy and all the air was coming out of the ports. I thought the valves may have been cut wrong so I removed the cy head and pored gasoline in the ports......Not one bit dripped out so I think the valves just need lapping. I will further investigate and let you guys know.

Thank You!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
be 110% sure the timing is correct (belt) and that you are only pumping air into the cylinder when the cylinder is at TDC (just covering all the bases before you go tearing an engine apart.)

 

I tripple checked. I wish it was that simple. The head is off and I will remove all valve train and relap the valves. Then do some tests. If it fails I will just have a new 3 angle job done to it.

 

since its a race engine dont even consider a 3 angle, 4+ should be the MINIMUM for you. a 3 angle is what a stock engine gets.

did you lap the valves when you installed it?

 

No......dumb me trusted anothers work.

 

if you filled the combustion chamber with gas and it didn't leak down then it isn't the valves..the gas would leak before the compression does...with a compression ratio as high as your is.. it should absolutely be higher than 120..and 90 on one cylinder is way more than the acceptable 10% varience in cylinders..i would check the cam timing... if it is off you would bring the cylinder to what you believed to be top dead and add the leak down tester and get air out of the valve.. because it isn't actually closed..if air came out of the throttle body then your intake cam isn't timed correctly.. don't forget also that many cam manufactuers grind their intake cams with a 4 degree advance.. check you cam timing card..good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No......dumb me trusted anothers work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
and thats why i learned how to build engines. if anything breaks, its my own fault.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and thats why i learned how to build engines. if anything breaks, its my own fault. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, I build all my engines and others.....Just dont port my own heads.

BTW: I got a 5 angle valve job done with a different set of valves and the car runs great. 70 miles in with no problems.

 

Just asomething that mabye you didn't look at, check the firing order on the plugs. Sounds like it could be that since air is coming through the intake

 

Read!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


BTW: I got a 5 angle valve job done with a different set of valves and the car runs great. 70 miles in with no problems. </TD></TR></TABLE>