how hard is it going to be? how long does it usually take you guys when you do it? I have hve shop manual and all. Also, whats the best/easiest way to turn the engine so as to adjust different valves?

TIA

 

Not too hard. A couple of hours the first time, significantly less the next time. Turn the crank pulley bolt.

Follow the manual step by step and you'll be fine. You might as well change spark plugs at this time too.

 

once u know how to do it u can get it done in 20-30 minutes... maybe even less

 

humm, sounds good. Is the crank pully bolt hard to get at??

 

nope, a 8 inch or longer extension on the end of a socket (17mm or 19mm?) . remove driver front wheel... stick socket thru the splashguard/wheelwell cover on the dirvers side, right thru the plastic cutaway star shaped slits, then crank away.

much easier to do a valve adjustment once you figure out all of the little details.
so much faster the second time too...

 

No need to remove front driver wheel, just turn it all the way to the left.
If you have alloy wheels, you might be able to get to the the bolt w/o even turning the wheel.
I sneaked the extension thru the spaces in between the spokes.

 

when ur adjusting these valves, how do u know which cylinder is at TDC? and whats the firing order on a B18C, 1432?

 

IIRC, firing order is 1-3-4-2.
To tell which cylinder it TDC, check position of cam gear -or-
check depth with metal dowel thru spark plug hole.

 

That's the first time I've heard of anyone checking TDC by determining piston height with a stick... well, just be sure you don't scratch the top of your piston. It'll leave a burr, which will become a hot spot and lead to preignition.

 

Well, here's the deal w/ doing a valve adjustment on a VTEC B-series engine. You either have to bend a box-end wrench to reach the adjustor lock nuts, or you have to buy the Snap-On valve adjustment tool for Hondas. My suggestion is, GET that tool. First time I tried it, I messed with it for like 3 hours and never got it right, ended up driving over 300 miles with one exhaust valve having a clearance of like .025-.030 clearance (it was loud and sounded very bad). I finally found the problem and fixed it, but I will surely be getting that tool before I do that job again. It's about $45.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 1:20 PM 1/23/2002]

 

http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/PRO.as...snapon%2Dstore

There's the link to order the tool. Make sure to order the 10mm version.

-Alan


[Modified by ARunto, 11:44 AM 1/23/2002]

 

enjoy:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/v...lveadjust.html

 

its not hard at all.. you need a socket and ratchet set to remove your valve cover, a 10 MM open end/combination wrench, a screwdriver, a set of feeler guages, a 19MM (i think) deep socket and extension to turn your motor over... and of course jacks and jack stands...

oh yeah you might wanna also get a new valve cover gasket, spark plug gaskets and some hondabond or gasket sealer... you can also buy the snap on tool for $40 if you want instead of using the open end and screwdriver...
make sure engine is cold... jack up, support and take off driver side wheel for easier access... then you will see a circle on the inner fender trim... take off your spark plug wire cover, and take out your spark plug wires (note which one goes where for re-installation)... now use your 10 MM socket and undo the bolts on the valve cover.. lift off valve cover and your head is exposed...

now use your 19mm deep socket and extension and stick it in the hole in the fenderwell... turn your ratchet counterclockwise until your cam gear points to UP (ceiling).. now you can adjust your #1 cylinder (firing order is 1-3-4-2)...

loosen the locknut on the exhaust side and move your feeler guage (w/ the appropriate thickness/clearance) in and out as you turn the adjuster screw.. once you feel a drag on the feeler guage.. hold the screwdriver/adjusting screw in place.. while you use your 10MM open end to tighting the adjuster nut.. recheck the clearance to make sure you didnt move it as you tighted the nut and check that its w/in spec... now do the same thing for the intake side on that cylinder.. after both intake and exhaust are in spec for that cyl...

rotate the crank so that the cam gears point towards the exhaust side (UP faces front of car).. not adjust cylinder #3 (firing order 1, 3, 4, 2).. repeat adjustment as above.. then when done.. rotate until UP points down to floor.. then do cyl#4... when your done.. rotate again and do Cyl #2...

it takes about 45 mins because i dont like to rush things when it come to my motor..

 

Another tip, buy a set of straight feeler guages and bend the ends of the blades that you need. You can typically find a set of straight blades with lots more sizes in them, but when I tried adjusting mine with the flat blades, I ended up checking the clearance with the blade at an angle, which made all the valve clearances looser than spec (but felt fine w/ the guage). If you bend the end of the blade, you can get the blade in there straight between the cam lobe and rocker arm and get a more acurate reading. I just left my blades bent, either 3 or 4 of them. They won't close back in with the other blades, but I don't care.

 

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