The tyres/wheels are already taken care of, but there are more to be done. With around $1500 in my pocket and I can always borrow a few hundereds on my credit card. I need to make some appropriate changes to my car before the Expo.

Application of my car:

Street: Will be weekly driven, mostly on weekends to battle the traffic and meteor-sized pot holes of a metro city and suburban getaways.

AutoX: Competing for SM in this season with very competitve cars...I will be lucky if I can end up top 3. However, autox is just my way of preparation or to kill time fo the real deal:

Road Track: At least 10 lapping sessions. Hopefully to learn everything I need within these 10 days/weekends. Not bumper-to-bumper racing, but I sure don't like the feeling of being passed

__________________________________________________ __________________

Ok, on with the four routes of modification I keep battling in my head. And I havn't slept for the pass 22 hours because I have this stupid anxiety for it.

1. Toda 4-2-1(need that ground clearance) + Cat + Exhaust to accompany the already instaleld Icebox.

Con: Will 10whp really give me a cutting edge on competitions?

2. . Engine work: Spoon Cams/Cam Gears(mild setup needed for street), Mugen/Toda Valvespring.

Con: What good is it if I don't have bolt-ons to probably dyno-tune it?

3. . ATS Final Drive with Toda Lighten Flywheel.

Con: Should I wait longer to grind some more synchros and burn some more clutch to replace them all at once?

4. . Zeal B2 or any other street/track coilover.

Con: How long will it last on the streets of my city that sometimes resemble an aftermath of earthquakes?

So here they are, what are your opinions? What would be your list from high to low priority?




[Modified by nEoMuGen, 8:34 PM 1/22/2002]

 

I don't know what other mods you got now, but here's my list for ya:

1. Good bucket seat to hold you in.
2. Cage to go along with the seat so you can strap yourself in.
3. JDM 4.785 or ATS 4.930 FD w/ lightened FW.
4. Mugen 24 or 26mm rear-sway bar.

 

I would also agree and say a 4 point cage with better seats and harness

The mods that you listed will make you go faster, but for the amount of money you put into it, you will not yield alot more hp or make you significantly faster.

A new exhaust and header is a good route because you get the hp gains AND the weight saving.

if you want to be faster for road racing and auto x, then get some super sticky tires

 

Ah....I was also thinking about the 5th route but I am a bit more power hungry to compete with today's new high hp cars:

It was an Autopower cage with reverse mounting on the rear wheel hubs(?). I don't think the Kirk's full extension to the rearend is suitable for streets, granted that there are lots of rear end bumping in city traffic and parking. Then I will go with the Mugen 24mm rear. Maybe with the extra money I can throw in some stiffer engine mount or something if it helps.

I wasn't thinking about the seats as I am pretty comfortable with the current one, probably just add harness afterwards. If I have to buy seats, then it would be Sparco Torinos reds or Recaros, which I would like to have a pair instead of just one.

My current stuff...pretty useless:

Comptech Icebox
Apexi VAFC
Spoon RSTB
IO Port Camera bar and support ( does this add rigidity to my car?)
Mugen Thermostats\Radiator cap
Mugen Pedals
Removed Rear seats
R4-S pads on all corners w/Motul 600...maybe some R4 if inadequate at tracks

Rota Slipstream 16"x7 +45, Falkin Azenis 215/45/16 for streets.
Stock rims with undecided R-compounds. I would like a 15" Rota for racing applications...and use Stocks for Winter/All season once I have the money at the end of the year.


[Modified by nEoMuGen, 9:43 PM 1/22/2002]


[Modified by nEoMuGen, 9:44 PM 1/22/2002]

 

I lucked out and bought a car that came with I/H/E (not the best but good enough) and coilovers. I want to do a ltw fly, then spend the rest of my money of tires and brakes from track drivin

If i were you, i'd do the FD and flywheel, seems to be the best upgrade and popular on this board

 

neo - sounds like you don't ever use your rear seats anyway... more of an excuse to put in a 4/6-pt roll cage.

I understand your thoughts on having a matching seat set... however, ask anyone who's got a bucket seat how they like it. The difference between a lowered bucket seat that holds you in around the turns is 10x better than what you imagine a stock seat can do. I'd imagine that the seats alone will drop your time in a demanding course. It's hard to explain, but your body reacts completely different when you're in a bucket seat vs. in an OEM seat (i.e no more grabbing on to the steering wheel and holding your butt against the seat by pressing on the dead pedal). That's just my 2 cents.

 

I thought You wanted to buy a Mitsu Evo 7...

 

uh oh...it will be another long hour of looking through archives of bucket seats! And yeah, the rear was removed for that preparation ever since you guys starts that autopower/kirk debate back in the days. And I enjoy saying to those that wants a ride in my car "sorry, only carry one more, take a cab"

Yes, the side of my knee and theigh are pretty sore on some autoxdays...I actually got black and blue once on my knees after a pretty tight layout. I have the strange fear of banging open my door on high G turns on tracks also. But I don't want ppl to think that I'm a riceboy with red seats and cages with no particular power mods.

.....ok, I'll hide from the new Altimas and RSX-S for a while and concentrate on what I need...

but that stronger 2nd gear pull from ATS is very tempting....argh!

 

Ha, you remember that from me?

They will be here in Spring of 03'...But I gotta have fun in this year as well...besides, there are still lots to learn from the ITR, I am no where near its limits.

EvoVII is definetly a dream car. When I get it, I'll say goodbye to SoloII and say hello to Rally and more fun on Road tracks.

But dreams are dreams. Evos are availiable in Japan, Europe and Australia for quite sometimes now but there are still crowds supporting the ITRs, there must be some unknown reason. It was said that Evo are easy to breakdown, especially the AYC on road tracks, it was said that it's not a good street car with really tight gearing....etc etc. Who knows, maybe the ITR will be a keeper afterall, and having fun while at it is my primary goal


[Modified by nEoMuGen, 10:16 PM 1/22/2002]

 

.....acceleration will be best benefitted from ATS final.

next is the i/h/e combo, but not nearly as potent in all portions of the rpm band.

I say do both of the above and invest the rest in instruction, track days, brakes, fluid, and tires.

 

this would be some nice mods!!

 

Hi,

The faster you come out of a corner, the faster you will be at the end of the following straight. In other words, if you can exit a corner at 80, you are already 10 mph faster than the guy who comes out at 70. It takes a lot of HP to overcome that 10 mph lead, catch up and pass.

With that in mind, I'd concentrate on the suspension, race seat, and cage. A large adjustable rear sway bar is also a good idea. A good racing seat is like a thin pair of leather gloves or thin soled racing shoes, it will communicate what the car is doing.

Accelleration is also power to weight based. Try to get as much weight out of the car as you can. Including flywheel and wheels/tires.

Once you have that down, I'd go with something like the adjustable SMS Products header which can grow with you as you increase your engine performance.

Having seen a racing kart with 15 cubic inches of power go around Watkins Glen faster than a road race prepared 454 Corvette, I'm a real believer in power to weight and suspension.