This question is in response to some help I got in the Tech forum regarding ball joint tools. As much as I would like to use it, I'm not inclined to pay $160 for Honda's ball joint tool, and I'm looking at other options. My #1 goal is not to cause any additional damage while pulling the joints, but if there is a reliable alternative to the tool listed in Helms, I'm ready to give it a shot.

Even an "apply BFH here" diagram would be helpful, really.

I'm posting this here rather than the tech. forum simply because if the traffic here. If anyone wants to move it, feel free.

 

Budman used a pickle fork and a 3.3lb sledge hammer very carefully and did not damage his boots. I have a pic of how/where to swing the bfm, but it's at home. I'll post it when I get home from work if someone doesn't help you out first.

 

All I did was rent a puller from Autozone when I replaced the driveaxle. It worked fine...

 

picklefork and a bfh

 

Put car on jackstands, jack up hub, insert socket (socket? err.. make that a rachet handle, we used a craftsmen 1/2" drive rachet)next to ball joint, quickly lower jack. Go to the other side. Repeat. Drink a beer and laugh at the other guy still working on it. (That's D's method btw, works good)


[Modified by Dave-ROR, 3:49 PM 1/22/2002]

 

 

LOL, you guys crack me up

 

you will need the hammer and pickle fork pictured here:


place picklefork here:


like so:


then proceed to beat the **** out of the fork with the hammer.
Remember you are hitting the fork toward the back of the car,
you are NOT trying to hit it downward in a foolish attempt to pry at the
joint.

 

Good stuff, thanks! I have heard a number of (bad, very bad) things about using a pickle fork for this kind of job. Is that due to an overwhelming amount of user error? From the picture above, it looks like any damage done to the joint boot would be due to having the fork in direct contact with the boot. Can this damage be avoided by simply being careful, or will I be hammering with crossed fingers?

I have to separate 4 of these. What are my odds?

 

Well using the method I posted, none were damaged and time spent was maybe 30 seconds a side..

 

which 4 are you trying to remove?

If you arent taking the ones i showed, then the best thing to do is
take a sledge hammer and hit the side of the piece that holds the ball
joint. this will loosen it and allow its removal.

 

Does that include drinking a beer and laughing, or no?

 

Ultimately, I need to take the hub in to have the bearings pressed out/in. As far as I can tell from the Helms manual, there are two per side that need to be separated in order to get the hub out. So, as far as I can tell, I need the ones you showed, and the upper ones.

 

Nope, the drinking a beer occured afterwards.

 

that would be 3 per side. upper A arm BJ, lower knuckle BJ, and steering tie rod BJ. the method ROR posted works good on lower BJ. for upper A arm and steering tie rod you need to give it couple of good wacks to "shock" (thus the big hammer works better) and loosen the BJ...

 

this is the EASIEST way to do it w/out having to buy any tools to do it...like Dave said, 30 sec/side...and if he was drinking enough, it could have included the beer

 

This way:




Or this way:

 

I'm sorry but i'm having trouble picturing how this would be done. Mainly the part with where to put the ratchet handle. I know you said next to the ball joint, but there's lots of locations next to the ball joint.

 

DO NOT use the fork as g3-teg has it shown, you WILL tear the ball joint boot.

Also, if you use the hammer method, make sure you hit the control arm
squarely from the side to minimize the risk of hitting the threads on the ball joint.

ein: im pretty sure that dave is referring to the same place where I have
the fork placed.

 

.....damn steve, where were you when I was having all that trouble?

I actually did this, but put the fork in from the other side (back side) and slid a pipe from home depot over it and angled it out under the car with 4"-6" of ground clearance and slowly lowered my weight onto the bar until it popped out. WD-40 helped, of course...

 

Oh yeah boy do they tear, I've got first hand experience. Glad I had some urethane ball joint covers with me.

Hmm... I'm trying to picture how having the hub jacked up with a ratchet handle there would separate the hub and lower arm when the jack is dropped.

 

I think that the rachet handle must fit where sgt has the fork there (with hub jacked up). Dropping the jack, the handle acts as a fulcrum kind of and forces the lca down off the hub? Is that what you're suggesting Dave-ROR?

 

There is only one tool needed for this job. I have not came up a ball joint that I could not pop using this method.

All you need is a 3 lb. sledge hammer.

Remove the 17mm castle nut.

Rethread the nut back on a little to protect the threads.

Turn the steering wheel to the side that will give you the best shot at the lower control arm (LCA).

Hit the little 'nub' on the LCA.*
*You can not be Sally when you hit this. You need to hit it hard.

After 1-5 hits it should be free. If not, keep hitting it...it will come free if you are not Sally.


In some cases, not all, 'pickle forks' can damage the boot.

Using my method you will not damage any boots or threads on the ball joint. It is even very easy to do when working with jackstands. The main thing is to hit it hard.

-kenji

 

ive found the most important thing is to pull up on the brake rotor like a ****... err have someone do it while you whack away.

 

I agree with Kenji and I do it for a living. Hit the lower arm on the "nub"...

Repeat with upper and outer tie rod end. Don't miss though. The nut rethreaded on gives the threads some protection but if you miss and smack it too hard, bad things will still happen.

Pickle fork bad. I've not needed one to separate Honda balljoints in 10 years of fixin' Hondas...