im puttin on a new timing belt water pimp etc and when putting it back together using a chilton manual (havent had the $$ for factory manuals) after it says to put on the timing belt it tell you to turn the crank counter clockwise three teeth on the cam pully..... is this to advance the timing? i dont really understand the reason it doesnt give an explanation.... any one know what this means> or can tell me the right way to go about getting it back togehter?

 

You're supposed to rotate the crank after installation of the timing belt to set the belt tensioner. You tighten the tensioner nut after the rotations. I think the FSM says to turn the engine CCW two crank rotations.

 

so theres no advancing or anything like that? just have the cam pulleys facing 'up' and have it at tdc an thats it?

 

When you install the belt, do the following:
1) Have the engine at TDC.
2) Align you cam gears with the UP marks up. I use a string across the centers to make sure all marks align. The cams tend to shift while doing this. A little trick is to tighten the number 4 valve adjusters slightly to hold the cams in place.
3) Install you belt.
4) Rotate the engine are prescribed to set the belt tensioner.
5) Tighten the nut for the belt tensioner to lock it in place.

 

ya..

turning exactly 3 teeth might be hard. Just turn it to the point where u feel the most resistance (roughly 3 teeth).. and then tighten the tensioner bolt.

 

aight awesome..... yea it made it sound like in the manual that it had to "jump" three teeth as if to advance the timing but it didnt make sense- just poor explanation... i need factory manuals!!!!

 

Turning back the three teeth is to tension the belt. As above...line all up, fit the belt, set the tension, rotate the engine (two turns of the crankshaft=1 on the cams) then turn it back the three teeth.

To go back 3 teeth, pick a point three teeth back from where the belt "joins" the sprocket on both the sprocket and belt, when they meet up, thats it done.

Good luck

 

if the tension is already set what does turning it back do? do you set the tension again?

 

Grabbed the FSM. Install the belt. Loosen and retighten the tensioner bolt. Rotate crank 5-6 turns CCW. Loosen tensioner bolt 1/2 turn. Rotate crank 3 teeth CCW. Retighten the tensioner bolt. Retorque crank pully bolt to 130 lbf*ft.

The engine is never rotated backwards.

 

To hold the cams in place, drop small punches or phillips screwdrivers through the holes in the cam rails, I believe they are between the #1 and #2 cylinders. There are holes in the camshafts that line up w/ the holes in the cam rails, and the screwdrivers will keep them from moving. I would not recommend adjusting the rocker arms too tight to hold the cams in place.

When you install the belt and rotate the crank 5-6 times, what you're doing is checking to make sure the pistons do not hit any valves (crank won't move if piston contacts an open valve when you're turning it by hand).

Then, when you loosen the tensioner and rotate the engine by 3 teeth on the cam gear, what you're doing is taking out any slack that might be in the belt on that long run from the exhaust gear down to the crank.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To hold the cams in place, drop small punches or phillips screwdrivers through the holes in the cam rails, I believe they are between the #1 and #2 cylinders. There are holes in the camshafts that line up w/ the holes in the cam rails, and the screwdrivers will keep them from moving. I would not recommend adjusting the rocker arms too tight to hold the cams in place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I forgot that you mentioned that before. I just hadn't done another belt recently. I'm making a note in my manual.

Anyway, the rocker arm adjustment does not require much tightening to hold the cams.

 

Well when I did my timing belt, I used the screwdrivers to hold the cams so that I could break the cam gear bolts loose, because I was also changing the camshaft oil seals. I also did the same when torquing the bolts back down afterwards. I would not want to hold the cams in place w/ the rocker arms when doing that.

 

I just did my timing belt aswell, but im having different problems(check my post)

But, i made my own cam lock. I think it was pretty genious. I cut a 2X4 in the shape of two cresent so that the fit between the two cams. Then i took my old timing belt, stapled it around my little cresent shaped 2/4 block, and it fit nice and snug between the cams. It worked like a charm. Its up to you, i like finding little projects in projects..
good luck

 

You can also cut the top loops on the back cover (behind the cam gears). That allows you to install the cam seals and gears when the shafts aren't on the head. The adjustment bolts on my gears were hitting that cover anyway.

 

great thanks for the info!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The engine is never rotated backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Apologies...you're right, I worded that previous post incorrectly. Rotating it 3 teeth CCW is to take the final slack out of the belt after having turned it 5-6 times.