Im already past the usual gutting, scraping/grinding and bolt removing. Im looking into any other option that will keep the car BOTI S/P and IDRC Pro-am All Motor class legal.

Ive been trying to find out any info on a class legal narraow/light rear end but havent really come up with much. Does anyone make one? I heard MB may have a BOTI S/P and IDRC Pro-am All Motor class legal rear end set up. Does anyone have any info or pics for that set up?

The competition engineering tubular control arms are a definite on my list of things to do, fastbrakes 10.2 kit in the front, aluminum drums in the rear are also on the list.

Anyone have any additional recomendations?

 

1850 with you is pretty damn light......
how much do you weigh?

have you calculated all this with a cage?

 

I weigh 200, Id settle for anything under 1980lbs with me in it but, of possible, i would like to be closer to the 1850 mark.

Just trying to get some ideas, maybe theres something I havent thought of doing yet

 

What do u + the car weigh now?

 

cut out the rear floorpan and tin it. cut as much off the front end as the rules will allow. The solid rear axle is a sure way to lose some weight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut out the rear floorpan and tin it. cut as much off the front end as the rules will allow. The solid rear axle is a sure way to lose some weight</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything youve just listed is prohibited in the classes I listed above. Trust me man, if I could I would have already.

I havent weighed the car yet but my neighbors identical yr/model eg with same mods weighed 1840 w/out driver.

I may have to start cutting here and there and start getting creative with consealing it. I can get away with cutting a lot the the door and just stick the door pannel back on it. I just have to cut it so the window crank can still mount and function properly. I can also try and cut most of the radiator core support and just leave the top half. Cover all that nicely with the bumper and use a custom bracket to hold the radiator. The roof can use a bit of trimming, the headliner covers that. The rear hatch as well, pop the plastic cover back on top of the cut hatch and nobody will ever know.

All that is tempting but risky in those classes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Innovation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Everything youve just listed is prohibited in the classes I listed above. Trust me man, if I could I would have already.

I havent weighed the car yet but my neighbors identical yr/model eg with same mods weighed 1840 w/out driver.

I may have to start cutting here and there and start getting creative with consealing it. I can get away with cutting a lot the the door and just stick the door pannel back on it. I just have to cut it so the window crank can still mount and function properly. I can also try and cut most of the radiator core support and just leave the top half. Cover all that nicely with the bumper and use a custom bracket to hold the radiator. The roof can use a bit of trimming, the headliner covers that. The rear hatch as well, pop the plastic cover back on top of the cut hatch and nobody will ever know.

All that is tempting but risky in those classes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

most of that stuff will probably get you petitioned

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paul vang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

most of that stuff will probably get you petitioned</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.

I think the only way to really get an eg down to 18XX with driver is to sell it and buy a CRX

 

yeap for all motor CRX

 

I have heard about problems with the competition control arms breaking. I have never compared them vs the stock control arms, but how much lighter are they supposed to be?

 

I'm looking at doing the fastbrakes kits, and getting some light weight brakes for the back aswell.. Maybe you can get a Carbon rear hatch, carbon bonnet,can you run with a single race seat? I got a 50mm holesaw and drill out all the captavated nuts in the car, cut holes in the rear bumper, trimmed body panels and bumpers, the list goes on, depending on what you can do.

BUT Unless you can cut open the doors and use lexan etc I doubt you'll get to 1850lbs

My car is 1830 with me and I'm 220lbs. but alot has been cut, I run a solid rear, chromolly cage, custom dash, still have the factory front, the car has had the radiator nose cut done, small radiator, fuel cell, etc etc the lst goes on. although I still run alot of stock panels..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard about problems with the competition control arms breaking. I have never compared them vs the stock control arms, but how much lighter are they supposed to be?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are supposed to take 40lbs out of the car

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard about problems with the competition control arms breaking. I have never compared them vs the stock control arms, but how much lighter are they supposed to be?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I have been running the competition front end system on my car for 2 years now and have had no problems. The first sets made, some people where having problems with them but mine have been great. As for the wight reduction, it allows you to get ride of the sway bar up front. That thing is pretty heavy. As for the setup I would have to give it a ..

 

Where did you purchase the competiton setup at?