I finally got my motor ive been building in my CRX. But now i have a problem, i cant really FEEL or HEAR a difference when VTEC is SUPPOSE to be engaging. Here is my setup for my motor:

D16z6 Bottom End:
Bored .010
Eagle Rods
SRP pistons (10.5:1 CR)

d16y8 Head:
Milled .010
ZEX/Comp Cam
ZEX valvesprings
TI retainers.

And i stayed obd0 on this car, so i have a summit racing RPM switch. I jumped the wire to the solenoid and the wire to power, and i can hear the solenoid clicking on and off. But when i drive it i dont feel a difference. I have the RPM set at 4,000. 4,000 and beyond it feels the same as 1,000 to 3,000? I dont understand? What could be wrong? Thanks!!

 

For that setup you should set the vtec higher..Like 5200-5800rpm..Set it higher and you'll feel it and hear it pop stronger..z

Also is the oil at the right level..?

 

oil is good.....

 

would having the VTEC set at 4,000 make it not come on? If so why??

 

ttt, i put a toggle switch on the solenoid and when i turned it on and off no differnece in power......whats up with this?

 

v-tecs can overtime get filled with carbon and sometimes they wont engauge you might try cleaning the switch

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1_QWIK_HF_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">v-tecs can overtime get filled with carbon and sometimes they wont engauge you might try cleaning the switch
</TD></TR></TABLE>

????? how do they fill up with carbon if they are engauge with oil.....

 

i cleaned it out, still no go.....what should the voltage at the oil pressure switch be? Im getting the same reading no matter if at idle or if at 5,000RPM....?

 

bump it up

 

someone help...

 

let it warm to operating temp before getting on it in your case 4k, any codes? code 17 or code 6?

 

no codes, and i always let it warm up, still no VTEC

 

anymore help?

 

set the crossover between 4800 & 5200, and switch to OBD1 would be what I suggest until you get it tuned. But I am not sure why the motor wouldn't be making the VTEC xover. Good luck.

 

is the mileage on your cluster turning ?? speedo cable in there nice and tight , this is how the ecu knows to go to vtec

 

wtf? cluster has nothing to do with VTEC....dont reply if you dont know ****, thanks!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civichatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf? cluster has nothing to do with VTEC....dont reply if you dont know ****, thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

U DONT KNOW **** BUD! VTEC does not engage if the car is not going over 25 MPH! and the VSS IS in the cluster. so it has evreything to do with it.

 

im not for sure on this but i remember reading somewhere that your supposed to set the rpm switch at like 10 grand or something weird like that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_hatch_216 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not for sure on this but i remember reading somewhere that your supposed to set the rpm switch at like 10 grand or something weird like that. </TD></TR></TABLE>
our engines dont go that high a daily basis.

god what is it with all the idiots that dont know **** in this fourm!? i mean come on.....

 

actually it was supposed to be set at double where you wanted the vtec to kick in at or something like that.which would also explain your whole theory of the vtec not kickin in if your not goin over 25 cause i dont think your gonna do 25 in first gear at 2k or 2500 rpms. what is it with everyone always being asses to anyone who tries to help?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civichatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf? cluster has nothing to do with VTEC....dont reply if you dont know ****, thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

um... i don't understand how people can be this hard headed. VTEC is controlled by a simple solenoid, it doesn't care what speed you're at. All it does is open and allow oil to pass.

IF he swapped ecu's, the ECU would be looking for a number of factors (oil pressure, speed, etc.) before it opened the solenoid allowing the oil to activate VTEC, but a simple solenoid would not be alone.

I'm not really sure on your problem. Deffinatly make sure your switch is set for a 4-cylinder but if you wired up a switch it shoud be working. I'm stumped really but be sure to post when you figure it out.

 

I'm sorry I dont wana sound like a *** or be rude to pepole. However, I gota say that wiring a VTEC solenoid to a button, switch, or rpm switch is sooo getto. You gota have the VTEC fuel maps to "feel" VTEC and to do that u gota have a VTEC ECU. The ECU wont run VTEC untill the engine is warmed up, u have suitable oil pressure, and ur going over 25MPH. This is mostly a safety thing so when u rev in neutral it wont kick VTEC in with no load on the engine. The oil pressure is because VTEC works hydraulically with the engine oil and the solenoid is just a valve; u need suitable oil pressure for the system to work. The warmed up part is for engine life and dependability. All VTEC does is open both intake valves at the same time instead of one or one and the other half. It lets the engine generate more torque by basicly breathing more volume faster. This cant be done w/o the extra fuel maps. Basicly the ECU switches to totaly different maps because of the different breathing of the engine.

There. there is your mini write-up for how VTEC works.


Modified by DieMaster at 11:49 PM 3/7/2005

 

Well VTEC in a SOHC isn't going to be extremely noticeable in the first place. Also, ghetto rigging it to a toggle switch (or even an RPM switch for that matter) is definately not the best way to activate it. You aren't going to get the change in fuel/ignition you normally would using the correct ECU. But by doing it that way, it also bypasses all the checks the computer would normally do - like oil level/pressure, going a certain speed, etc. so it shouldn't be any of that stuff.

What I am guessing is happening is from you setting it at 4000 rpm it's really activating at 2000 rpm (most of the RPM switches you have to double the rpm for our cars since they only have 4 cylinders I think)...

But yeah I would suggest getting a PM6/PS9 chipped at least, if you don't wanna get everything for an OBD1 conversion.

Also I think you are supposed to use a relay when using an RPM switch..

 

i have a relay for my RPM switch. And lets say i want it VTEC to kick in at 4,000 that means i would set the switch at 2,000 since its only 4 cylinders.....you dont add more, you divide....i dont know whats wrong with this, even if i dont have the ECU for it, i should still feel something, no doubt in my mine, something is wrong...