Hey guys,

I've searched around and all the how to's and threads i saw either werent for the 4th gen, or had no pictures to accurately show me where I need to go with these wires......

I have a mechanical Oil pressure and Water temp gauge, the thing i need to figure out is where I can run them through the firewall. They are going up on my A pillar, so I would preferably want to either 1. drill a hole or 2. find a hole to run these tubes through.

Any suggestions on where in the firewall i can go through? thanks

-Evan

 

there are already holes in your firewall from the factory i would use one of those. there is one under the fuse box in your hood and you can also put it through where your steering comes through just cut a lil bit of the rubber

 

i drilled a small hole up and to the left of the break pedal from what i remember...ill try and look and get u some pics this weekend

 

i hated doing all of that crap. if you dont want the cruise control it will open a HUGE hole in the firewall.

 

same for 5th gen?

 

yeah, i took my cruise out and now i have a one inch hole in the firewall.

 

sweet, who uses that **** anyways : P

 

mechanical gauges huh?

nothing like 200 degree oil at 60 psi running under your dash and up into the A-pillar...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mechanical gauges huh?

nothing like 200 degree oil at 60 psi running under your dash and up into the A-pillar...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree, but they are a third of the price and some people just cant validate spending 200+ a gauge.

personally i would never run line like that in my car but to each their own.

 

yea, i dont have that kind of money, and that's why i want to do it right and not make any kind of stupid mistakes. I'm sure it's safe if it is done correctly. Thanks for the help, if you guys can get pics that would be awesome

 

Why the heck would you spend $200 on a full sweep electrical? They're like $50-$80 each from autometer. I really don't need to need to spend for pintpoint accuracy on an analog gauge for the Japanese ones. I'd only put that money into a boost gauge where 1 psi means a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why the heck would you spend $200 on a full sweep electrical? They're like $50-$80 each from autometer. I really don't need to need to spend for pintpoint accuracy on an analog gauge for the Japanese ones. I'd only put that money into a boost gauge where 1 psi means a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the gauges arent expensive but the sensors that come with it are. i have never seen a full sweep electrical gauge for less then $150.

Some people want quality. personally i do care if i am running 38 or 40 PSI. part of me wishes i would have gotten DEFI gauges as they are even more accurate then the autometer ones i use.

 

Almost Autometer's entire line of electrical full sweep gauges are less than $150. DEFI's are around $150. The idea of pumping anything under pressure into the cockpit isn't very bright. Ever wonder why you see gauges attached to the hood on some cars? It's so that they don't leak or burst lines into the cockpit.

So you're telling me that you've verified that Autometer makes bad gauges/senders? Also you're telling me that on a 0-100 psi sweep you can tell the difference between 39/40 psi while driving under moderate/extreme conditions? The reason why I'm asking is because I've pressure verified my oil press and water temp vs a calibrated gauge and my autometer electrical is off by ~1 psi and within ~2 degrees thoughout the entire band. Plus I've never seen anyone who needs such pristine accuracy on these two. The only ones that really matter is fuel and boost that needs that kind of accuracy. Fuel shouldn't be plumbed into the cabin, EVER and should be run on a mechanical gauge under the hood.

I'm not trying to rip on you, it's just that I really can't see the reason to plumb quite literally dangerous fluids into the cabin. Fuel catches on fire, and oil is anywhere from 180-300F, plenty hot enough to scald you if you loose a fitting/line. Not to mention both of these are under pressure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shakes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i hated doing all of that crap. if you dont want the cruise control it will open a HUGE hole in the firewall.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word, thats exactly what I just did for my boost gauge. Worked perfectly. I also had to run my wideband o2 and a/f gauge wire through there so all i did was widened it a little bit by egging it out. good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Almost Autometer's entire line of electrical full sweep gauges are less than $150. DEFI's are around $150. The idea of pumping anything under pressure into the cockpit isn't very bright. Ever wonder why you see gauges attached to the hood on some cars? It's so that they don't leak or burst lines into the cockpit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

share with the rest of the world please.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So you're telling me that you've verified that Autometer makes bad gauges/senders? Also you're telling me that on a 0-100 psi sweep you can tell the difference between 39/40 psi while driving under moderate/extreme conditions? The reason why I'm asking is because I've pressure verified my oil press and water temp vs a calibrated gauge and my autometer electrical is off by ~1 psi and within ~2 degrees thoughout the entire band. Plus I've never seen anyone who needs such pristine accuracy on these two. The only ones that really matter is fuel and boost that needs that kind of accuracy. Fuel shouldn't be plumbed into the cabin, EVER and should be run on a mechanical gauge under the hood. </TD></TR></TABLE>

actually i have. i am a calibration technician in the NAVY. My side job when i was on the ship was to calibrate torque wrenches, gauges, sensors etc.

I have a bad sending unit from autometer right now, and two bad gauges. two months down the road the sending unit **** the bed. now im not saying this is normal, but it happened. DEFI has higher quality control thats all.

and yes, even while driving down the road once you are used to the gauges even a 1-2psi difference you will notice. my autometer fuel pressure gauge is extreemly accurate.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimeRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm not trying to rip on you, it's just that I really can't see the reason to plumb quite literally dangerous fluids into the cabin. Fuel catches on fire, and oil is anywhere from 180-300F, plenty hot enough to scald you if you loose a fitting/line. Not to mention both of these are under pressure. </TD></TR></TABLE>

again, i agree, i feel that mechanical gauges are a bad idea. thats why i spent the $$ on electrical ones.

 

**** i had a hell of a time finding anything on this when searching a month or two ago when i was doing mine

tried the fuse box side, lost the grommet through the firewall behind the dash lol but i just taped up the hole and the wires where they'd rub
but that worked

never found much about that in search
but thats what id reccomend, i ran a 4 gauge power wire and im sure anything would fit. used a clothes hanger unbent to ******** it through

 

Strange, I had one oil press sender go bad after 3 1/2 years with a leak but it still read pressure correctly. Haven't had any (3 gauges) of the senders die other than the one with the leak.