i was just wondering if any body knows when they are goin to be out for the h22. i havent seen them on the skunk2 website,they seem to be the best cams for the street right now at least on the b series motors. a helpful link would be appreciated.

 

any cam can be streatable. so best for the street would be the most wicked cam you can fit to your application.

I saw @ries tune an LS with the crower 404's (305 / 308 lift and duration) to a smooth idle.

you just need a good tuner. but i have no clue about the skunks. **** skunk.

 

i really dont want to go with crowler... im either goin with the pro series by skunk2 or the type s cams

 

why not crower? how about webcams, rocket, JUN etc.

 

errr dont want regrinds, or cams that will break when i put them in, or have really big lobes so i have to get new valve springs, etc.....

 

any cam will break when you put it in if you install it incorrectly.

 

well ill have a shop do it right, i just really wanted information on the pro series cams i cant find any thing about them on skunk2s web site and the only thing i can find on here is about the b series, and they seem to have the most usable hp and tq curve in the mid rpm ranges which is what i want, on the street power.

 

man chill out with the skunk 2 stuff..breaking cams in a street car? geez get off the name-brand bandwagon and actually learn how to pick out cams

 

then why r there all these threads on here about jun cams and crowler breaking i just wanted hell i dont want the skunk2 stage 1-3 either i wanted the pro series cause they are susposed to be really good if u would look at the dyno from the b series u would know. i guess u dont know about them then.

 

oh yeah want reliability most of all i dont want to spend like 2gs in a whole head to make like 10 more hp at like 6-75 grand

 

I havent heard of a JUN cam breaking in a H series motor. And when they did break ( on bseries) it was due to shady installation. Crower just had a slight quality control issue, its been taken care of. Id recommend some nice big fatty Jun cams. Get some RM valvetrain or something. If you spend 2gs on a head you should make an extra 50 hp minimum. If not you got ripped the **** off. I suggest doing the head swap on your own. Buy all the parts, take them all to a headshop and have them put new seals,resurface, check all the clearences and what not, and have them install the new valvetrain then swap the head and off you go. That should save you about 1600 bucks in labor right there.

 

thanks for the info but i dont want to redo my valve train... i need low end and mid range

 

lol 50 hp off a head u sound like my buddy with a v6 eclipse that says that headers and exhaust will give him 75 to the wheels

 

Your a ******* idiot. Stock type SH dynoed at 154 give or take. My car with a jun head and a check engine light BASELINED 190 before tuning. got it to 195 before i left the dyno due to the damn code 9. That's about 50 hp. You sir can kiss the fattest part of my white ***. I hope you buy some piece of **** cams and they disintegrate into your head. Last time i try and help some fool who thinks he knows everything. y0u j|_|s7 m4d t1ght st33t rac3a.


Thats a good one, skunk2, best cams on the street right now lol.

Ive seen people with just a nice head setup and good exhaust hit 220's on a H22. I hope you get hit by a truck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your a ******* idiot. Stock type SH dynoed at 154 give or take. My car with a jun head and a check engine light BASELINED 190 before tuning. got it to 195 before i left the dyno due to the damn code 9. That's about 50 hp. You sir can kiss the fattest part of my white ***. I hope you buy some piece of **** cams and they disintegrate into your head. Last time i try and help some fool who thinks he knows everything. y0u j|_|s7 m4d t1ght st33t rac3a.


Thats a good one, skunk2, best cams on the street right now lol.

Ive seen people with just a nice head setup and good exhaust hit 220's on a H22. I hope you get hit by a truck.</TD></TR></TABLE>



wait a minute, so all the guys with JUN heads and ITB's pullin over 250 WHP are full of **** right?

maybe they should go to skunk2 and see how much power they can make

or wait, what about that all motor LS that @ries dyno'd (i was there to see this) made 183 WHP with a mild head job, stock ITR header and crower 404's on a SAFC. maybe he should go to some skunk2's as well


the point of all of this is that any cam will break if put in incorrectly, any company can make a cam for your specific application etc.

the best thing to do is not ask HT, but to call the various company's and talk to them. they can recommend you a cam based on your current setup and your goals ahead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattspivey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol 50 hp off a head u sound like my buddy with a v6 eclipse that says that headers and exhaust will give him 75 to the wheels </TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, what a boner . Do some ******* research before you come in here and say that certain things are imposable, dispite the fact that they have already been done multiple times.

 

This guy is an official moron,wants reliability and wants skunk2 and can't spell crower.

 

yeah u can do any thing with the right amount of money i just wanted info on what would work best for my pockets and goals and since none of yall know why even and 98 type sh u said that the idle lobes on the jun cams was huge and vtec was at 5900 i dont want that and u also said that the secondarys dont work well with that set up and i dont want to jack with my timing belt and stuff like that i dont have the pockets to buy a new h22 i could barley afford the one i got in there now.

 

oh yeah my boy with a b16 with a jun head had his timing belt break a few times now he is riding his bycicle cause rebuilding a motor is expensive. Also my buddy with a fully built crower head had his ls turbo stroked fully forged motor blow recently 2. So maybe that is why i dont like those 2 companies sorry if i offended you guys, u have stock in those companies or sumfin..... oh yeah i know im a da so dont post any other unessary flaming of me its pointless

 

wait a minute here... how in the hell did the timing belt breaking on your boys head have anything to do with JUN? its not their fault. and your other boys car with the crower cams... i doubt it was the cams fault either. maybe they should have invested in a good tuner and as with any built head you never use a stock timing belt. you get a tougher one. sure they may be 150 bucks, but that extra hundred could save your $2,000 head.

i think you need to realize half assing is the problem of the builder / buyer and not the company's.

 

Maybe your boys had an Autozone or Checkers auto parts timing belt. Because I know many people that have built heads, turbo, nitrous junkies all run OEM timing belts and had not one problem. Including myself, I have a Fully built skunk 2 head with a stage 2 cam. P&P and Shunk 2 manifold also using the OEM timing belt. Guess what still have not had one problem. It has to be your boys tuner....

 

i do think skunk2 has the best buck for cams....jun is good somehow but it's almost double the price....but on H22A, my built skunk2 head is faster than a built Jun head...don't know y. but the JUn one has more torque. Jun own me on a rolling

 

A rolling start.....Come on those don't count....From the line is where it counts....