i have a 95 gsr with 116,3xx miles on the clock.

i was driving home tonight and immediately i could feel a difference with my clutch, when i put it in gear i could feel a heavy vibration (like it wasn't fully disengaging).

Major slippage in 1st gear a couple times, grinding when going into 2nd (from 1st or 3rd) about 1/3-1/4 times.

Clutch engaged at a much earlier time than usual (pretty much the floor in 1st) and didn't engage at the same time consistantly throughout the ride. Also, clutch pedal pressure (and feel) was greatly reduced, felt like my old Focus' clutch (very soft )

What do you guys think? Any suggestions for a good aftermarket clutch that you've had a positive experience with? Should i get a new flywheel while i'm at it? My plans for this car are modest, street use, daily driver, but i am a spirited driver....hence the clutch issues.

TIA, Matt

 

well if your gonna get a clutch id go ahead and do clutch and flywheel since ull need the stock one re-surfaced neway. I also need a new clutch like u so iv been shopping around and for people that daily drive but are spirited the exedy stage1 (full face organic disc) was recomended, it has a 32% increase in clamping load and has good reviews from people. I also am gonna get the ACT streetlite flywheel its 12.5 lbs so it doesnt hinder drivability to the point where it isnt fun for stop and go traffic, if u go too light itll be hard to drive, itll be about 500 for both from clutchcityonline

 

good info, good point about the flywheel, thanks

other suggestions? i don't have a garage, proper tools, or experience to be able to do this myself (although someday i hope to have all three), so what would you guys think the price of labor would be? 300ish?

thanks, Matt

 

I think the dealer is close to $600.
They can quote it over the phone.

A performance shop in Chicagoland charges $350, for example.
http://www.whipfactory.com/v3/transwork.htm

I wouldn't try it myself, without a garage.

Sounds like pressure plate, a strap snapped or something. Good luck with it.
Clutch 101 by Rocket, in case you hadn't seen it before.

http://tech.wiredspeed.com/clutch_101.asp

(FYI, I have the Action 1MD, I don't like it a whole lot. Hard to engage smoothly.)

 

Exedy stg 1 & exedy hf01 flywheel. Best combo for the modest racer. Look it up

 

get an exedy stage 1 clutch and just resurface your flywheel, they can shed a few pounds when you do it at the shop and saves you $$$.

 

you do agree that exedy is the way to go, huh?

 

does this sound like a hydraulic problem to anyone other than me? "Clutch engaged at a much earlier time than usual (pretty much the floor in 1st) and didn't engage at the same time consistantly throughout the ride. Also, clutch pedal pressure (and feel) was greatly reduced, felt like my old Focus' clutch (very soft )"

"i was driving home tonight and immediately i could feel a difference with my clutch, when i put it in gear i could feel a heavy vibration ). <U>(like it wasn't fully disengaging</U>" if it were the clutch plate wouldnt it still dissengage just not move? and i wouldnt thik it would be grabbing right off the floor... would it? just my thoughts its my buddys car... ill try to take a look at it

 

Yeah, you could be totally right. But I'm not sure it explains the clutch slipping in 1st gear. *shrug*

Good luck

-Chris

 

exedy all the way , id just get a lightweight flywheel though, I've heard about resurfaced flywheels blowing up and im sure that isnt pretty.

 

why would a light flywheel make driving harder?

 

the rev will drop down faster or go up faster

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BuyImports2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would a light flywheel make driving harder?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The lighter flywheel has less rotational inertia, which requires the driver to be more aggressive with the accelerator when starting from a stop. Once moving, the difference in driving difficulty is minimal.

 

thanks for all the replies, i will take a good look at exedy clutches thanks to your suggestions

anymore ideas on this being a hydraulic problem and not a clutch issue? this DID happen all of a sudden....i drove my car 80-100 miles yesterday (in three seperate trips) and it didn't act up until the last drive (about 15 miles).

thanks again, Matt

 

Hmm, it's hard to say if it's a clutch slave or master cylinder problem or something wrong with the clutch itself. How many miles and what year is the car? The slave cylinder might be worth replacing (it's only like $30) and you'll be bleeding the system when you do it.

Then again, my brother had similar pedal feel as you are explaining. The clutch would engage all over the place but mostly at the floor. We replaced the slave and master cylinders and it still did it. We ended up pulling the clutch to find that the disk sort of self destructed where the springs are. The metal holding the spring in cracked and the spring was all loose in there. This is what made the engagement screwy. I think this is a common problem because when I just did a clutch replacement on my GSR (it was a stock clutch) the disk was very cracked by the disks. The pedal was consistent but it did feel a little weird.

I would recommend a Exedy Stage 1 (about $250) as well, they are great clutches if you do replace yours. My brother and I both have them in our GSRs and are very happy. They engage smoothly and are only slightly stiffer pedal pressure than stock (we both like the feel better than stock). Can't beat it for $250 with the TO bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch alignment tool too.

 

thanks for the info on the exedy in your gsr, i've now heard many great things for them and will probably go for the stage 1.

i've checked the fluid resivoir, it's fine, no fluid under my clutch pedal, and the slave cylander *looks* fine (no leaks). I'm always open for more ideas.

thanks guys, Matt

 

any other favorite brands out there? would a stage 2 clutch be too much for my modest setup/daily driver status? what would be the pros/cons vs. a stage 1?

 

Stg 1 should be all that you need. They're good up to 15000+ rpm and 250 hp or so while maintaining incredible drivability. I would recomend an hf01 flywheel is you chooses to replace yours. I bought both for less than 400 brand new.

Email this guy : gripforce@hotmail.com

He can work out a really good package deal, and he's reliable, bought from him twice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jwbetley &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Email this guy : gripforce@hotmail.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

emailed him, thanks

have a question however, what's a hf01 flywheel? weight? brand? thanks, i'm new to all this

 

Its an excedy HF01. It weight 9.46 lbs, but it is a solid one peice geometric work of art. Lighter is certainly not better. When looking for a flywheel, those aluminum two-three peice rivit-encrusted things suck. A solid flywheel gives a solid feel in your launches. I got the HF01 from the same guy I got my clutch from. A package deal, i think it was no more than $400. It's just a wise investment. Good luck, hope he responds and helps you out.

 

Since you're asking for recommendations on other clutches (I don't want to start a fight over who's is better) but I have a Clutchmaster stage 3 in my GSR and I think it has the best feel out of all of the cars I've driven with aftermarket clutches. The feel is almost exactly the same as stock, engages very smoothly and hasn't slipped on me yet. But for the money it cost it F'ing better not. So anyway you might be better off with the Exedy just based on price difference.

 

clutchmasters stage 3 should NOT feel like stock at all.

my clutchmasters stage 3 is slipping now.

 

Ok so I'm just curious cause mines been really good to me, did you really give it the 500 or so mile gentle break in like the instructions said to? From what I hear that makes all the difference between them falling straight apart or lasting. I hear kevlar's funny like that. Or is my **** just gonna fall apart any time now without me knowing?
No seriously, the peddle doesn't really feel stiffer than stock, and it doesn't engage like a stage 4 or 5, it's really smooth.

 

no cm stg 3 in my car felt stock also
maybe yours didnt feel stock because something wasnt right
probably why its slipping now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2gturboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no cm stg 3 in my car felt stock also
maybe yours didnt feel stock because something wasnt right
probably why its slipping now</TD></TR></TABLE>

nah it worked fine for over 4 years.
should be tighter than stock.