the car is a 91 crx si w/ obd 0b16a going in w/ pr3 ecu going in

I finished all of the wiring besides for the second o2, and the first o2 is in the collector of the header. (4-2-1) the ecu is throwing no codes, idle seems fine, car revs fine, but when driving the car has no power. to the point that you cannot even drive it. there is a single prong sensor on the distriputer side of the head that is not hooked up. (cyl/tdc/crank sensor????) would this be why it is not running right or not getting any power? the reason i did not hook it up is that the wire somewhere broke off of the harness, so if someone could tell me what pin on the ecu it goes to, and what sensor it is, that would be great.

-Thomas

 

i really need someones help on this one any ones help even if you have a guess that might be what i need thanks

-Thomas

 

the single prong sensor is brass colored right? if it is, its the temp sensor that goes to your instrument panel, you dont need it, and it wont throw code, but your temp on your dash will always show cold

some swaps ive done do the same, drive, but no power. its usually the distributor timing thats off. advance the timing, and it should start creating power. then set it with a timing gun.

 

could it be that cam timeing that it off becouse i'm about 90% that the timing is right on the dis i will check agen

 

unles you have cam gears, the only thing that can change the timing is the distributor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the single prong sensor is brass colored right? if it is, its the temp sensor that goes to your instrument panel, you dont need it, and it wont throw code, but your temp on your dash will always show cold</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you should reconnect your temp gage. It should have a yel/grn wire going to it. The yel/grn wire is in the 8 pin plug on the passenger side shock tower.

 

yes you should plug it in, but it doesnt go to the ecu, so it doesnt change the way the engine runs, so its not the culprit.

 

We did a B16 swap lat year in a civic and had the saem symptoms, it turned out the spark plug wires were in the wrong positions on the distributor cap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unles you have cam gears, the only thing that can change the timing is the distributor</TD></TR></TABLE>
could it not of got mested up when i did the timing belt ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Deetz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">We did a B16 swap lat year in a civic and had the saem symptoms, it turned out the spark plug wires were in the wrong positions on the distributor cap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what is the firing order i forgot i dont think its wrong but i will look at it if somone can tell me the order and what dissy is on my car i mean if i was going to get anew one what would it be off of thanks

-Thomas

 

Firing order on the dizzy is.

34
12


Like so......

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1167505
that thread has a cool pic of the distributor
and yes, if you did your timing belt, and its one tooth off, or 2 teeth off, it will still fire, but run like ****. so that could be it

set crank shaft to tdc, and cam gears to tdc, then check belt again

 

ok i looked at my fireing order and it was

32
14

i can not beleve that it ran at all like that what i relly cant beleve that i did that so i fixed it and reset the timeing at 15 before tdc and the is a valve taping you think i might have one or even both cams off? tell me what you think

-Thomas

 

did you adjust the valves?

 

set intake at 0.007
exhaust at 0.009

 

Is there a how to on doing this i remember someone saying that it is hard to do if you don't have some kind of tool thanks for all the help oh ya and last night i pulled the valve cover off and the crank i turned to TDC and the mark on the cams gears were pointing at each other and were lined up with the head searface and thats how i remember setting it when i put the timing belt on i just need someone to tell me this is right before i do a valve lash thanks agen

-Thomas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tdemsko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there a how to on doing this i remember someone saying that it is hard to do if you don't have some kind of tool thanks for all the help oh ya and last night i pulled the valve cover off and the crank i turned to TDC and the mark on the cams gears were pointing at each other and were lined up with the head searface and thats how i remember setting it when i put the timing belt on i just need someone to tell me this is right before i do a valve lash thanks agen

-Thomas</TD></TR></TABLE>

if your cam pully's are pointing at each other , and you turn the engine, thats really really bad...u could have bent valves. when your crank is tdc, your cam pullys shuold point dead nuts up.

check to see if your valves are bent:
take out your spark plugs, set both cam gears to tdc, the "up" arrow shuold be "up"
and the crank pulley on the 1 mark marking, not the 3 mark marking. take a leak down tester, and put 100psi into the block. see if it leaks. if it does...

for valve adjustment, you dont have to have the special tool, but its waaaaaaaay easier to do it with.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...talog
except you need the 10mm one.

 

sorry about that thanks for all your help and i will keep you up to date on whats going on after i ajust it and if it was you would you buy the tool i mean dose it make it that much easyer Thanks so much for all the help

-Thomas

 

cool, when you adjust, if you must, err on the looser side than the tighter side. ex:... intake on 0.008 rather than 0.006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tdemsko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i looked at my fireing order and it was

32
14

i can not beleve that it ran at all like that what i relly cant beleve that i did that so i fixed it and reset the timeing at 15 before tdc and the is a valve taping you think i might have one or even both cams off? tell me what you think

-Thomas</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too funny, but hey, i figured that could be the problem. Our engine ran also for about 5 days before i jumped on the job to figure out this problem. (Imagine, it was basically running on 2 cylinders)

How is the engine running now anyway?

 

it sounds great when its running but i can not drive it becouse of the valves are taping so after i get that fixxed i will tell you when you have a bent valve dose it tap or whats it sound like ?

-Thomas