LS/VTEC setup
topline pr3 pistons 81.5mm
Acl bearings
cometic HG
aebs headstuds
95 jdm gsr head, stock cams etc
chipped pr3 ecu
obd0 setup.

Well after my huge fiasco with the original motor i got, i completely rebuilt it, new crank and all. I have about 460 miles on the rebuild and its burning noticable oil, i see the smoke pulling away from stoplights or when im at 3k and higher and just get on the gas a little(doesnt have to be full throttle) it'll be a nice sized blue puff then clear up, even with more rpms. Going around corners its very noticable when i roll back on the gas. Cylinders 1&2 plugs are whitish blackish, while cylinders 3&4 are the nice brown. Im running 41-42psi fuel pressure at idel, and around 48-50psi at wot(ill have to double check). The oil burning really concerns me, its burning about 1/4 quart per 50-60 miles. I broke in the motor by letting the engine brake it self from like 4-5k etc to seat the rings. Then drove it nice and easy for the last few hundred miles. On the very first start of the day, when the car sits overnight it idels really rough and hesitates when i give it gas for the first 15-20seconds, then it's fine. I want to try a stock ls ecu for that problem, just have to go pick one up from a friend. I had a headgasket seeping from under the #3 and 4 exhaust port, i retorqued the headstuds and it seemed to stop. I dont know if there could be an internal leak in the combustion chamber thats collecting over night to make it idel rough.

I did a compression test and got
235 240 240 250 from left to right #4 being 235. I'm trying to find someone with a leak down tester to mess with. The oil consumption is really annoying me, and the spark plugs have me scratching my head. I'm hoping its valve seal/guide related as those i didnt change. I'd like to be sure before i start ripping this motor back apart . I've search and searched and anyone who has posted the same problem as me either didnt have there problem found...or never posted it.

AIM me at JETSWU8924 if you have specific question or post here.

TIA,

Vinny

 

no love?

 

If you used a MLS headgasket, you have to have pretty smooth surfaces on the block and head for the gasket to seal properly. The reason I mention that is I know of a lot of machine shops use belt sanders to deck. Did you at least deck your cylinder head?Check all ring end gaps w/feeler gauge? Its possible you could be burning oil through the valve guides, but it sounds like a considerable amount of oil if you can tell while driving, it wouldn't be that much unless you snapped a timing belt before the build and destroyed some valves and guides. Did it smoke like that before the rebuild?

 

head was milled and decked was blocked.

Didnt check the ring gap as i didnt know why i would need too, the machine shop bored them to the specs of these pistons as i order them through them.

I didnt have this head on the previous build, i called the owner of it and he said the motor didnt smoke. But it sat in his garage for 6 months before i bought it.

 

Ok just pulled the plugs before a cold start to smell for fuel, that wasnt the problem. Took the header off and felt the valves for oil, all felt dry.

Started the car and messed with the fuel pressure, i was a little higher then i thought i was. Around 44 psi at idel and 52-54 at wot. So i took it down to 40 at idel and 50 at wot. I adjusted my pcv valve to sit straight up rather then lay on its side, the bottom of it had quite a bit of oil on it and even the upper hose that runs to the IM had oil on the fitting to the valve(not the IM). The pcv valve is new and does rattle when i shake it. Had my friend rev the car while sitting there, didnt see any blue smoke. I thought i had saw a little tiny puff when he let go but i wasnt sure. Drove the car around my neighboorhood, it smokes pretty bad at like 4krpms and if i give it some gas....kinda like easing on the throttle but dissapears if i keep going up in rpms. From stops it comes out pretty decent sometimes too.

I got on the car a few times, didnt notice anything crazy...saw some smoke but it didnt look blue nor black. Got home and checked my plugs right away, both 3&4 are brown....1&2 a greenish white, very light green...it may not even be green but thats the best i can describe them.

 

i do believe that blue smoke indicates that u are burning coolant. But im not too sure about that. You may have a sealing problem between the head and block. It seems far fetched since u just decked, milled, and replaced everything but oil doesnt really burn blue, but white. Im not doubting that there is oil consumption, also did the shop perform the work on your head correctly (LS block fitment). Alot of people have problems in that area. jus my 2 cents

 

blue smoke is oil buddy, white smoke is coolant.

I have golden eagle dowels, thanks.

 

id be iffy about the rings. did you install them on the pistons? and can you call the shop to make sure if they did or not? also did you install the ring gaps in the proper configuration? It would hurt for you to change the valve seals either as they are a pretty inexpensive part. Its pretty strange to me how it only smokes at a certain rpm. you needa find that leakdown gauge!

 

well im sure it has to do with the load of the motor vs the rpms. I put the rings on the pistons yes with a guy who has been building motors since the '60's. Actually he handled the entire piston/ring process. I already have new valve seals in my hand, id just rather know for sure before i rip this apart again.

I want to find a leakdown too, but a leakdown will really only tell me if the rings are shot right? Since the valves are closed it wont show worn seals?


Modified by JETSWU87 at 5:56 AM 3/3/2005

 

maybe you ran it to rich and washed the rings,just an idea good luck.

 

yea thats one thing i was thinking, wish i had my stock ecu for break in.

Compression is good is the only thing keeping me from thinking the rings are washed though. Still want to get ahold of a leak down tester....soon

 

A Wise builder has once told me: never leave your car idling or overrev alot during break in or else the rings won't seat against the walls correctly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rocketfuelcerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A Wise builder has once told me: never leave your car idling or overrev alot during break in or else the rings won't seat against the walls correctly... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I meant don't leave car idling or overrev...

 

ok thanks for that tip.

car has to idel for a while at first to make sure the timing is on right, and that it doesnt overheat. In fact my car had to idel quite a few times the first few days cause i needed to get another dizzy to get the timing completely correct.

Borrowing a leak down tester tonight hopefully.

 

top

 

Just to give more info i can make it smoke the easiest when im around 4.5k and let the rpms fall by themselves...then rolling back on the gas it streams out then clears up. I can also do this by putting the clutch in and revving....say let the motor load down, pop the clutch in and give it a nice high rev...cloud of blue smoke.

 

guy never called me about the leak down tester, but i did another compression test with better results

#1 #2 #3 #4
265 260 265 260

compared to a week ago of

250 240 240 235

I got 503 miles on it now, gonna change the pcv valve again just for ***** and giggles. Also switching oil brands to valvoline, gonna run 10w-40 instead of 10w-30. My friend said to just drive it keep track of how much oil its burning, we can always change the valve seals. I have a hunch it has something to do with my pcv system, when i take the valve out of the hose its soaked in oil, and even has some oil on the other side of the valve where it shouldnt be.

Hopefully its something simple, compression test improvement gives me hope.

 

valve stem guides?