Alright this is whats up... last week i had my distributor cap\rotor button replaced car worked fine before i had this done, then a couple hours later the car started sputtering and acting up and kept stalling, so i took it back to the garage so this time he told me i needed new plugs and wires so i got that done, and this didn't help it one bit. So it started to **** me off, cause the car worked fine till i took it to the garage! so he put it on the scanner and couldn't find anything nothing would come up, but it seems to me it should of came up cause my CEL was on?! after all of this?! so i left the car with him and went home for a bit, while i was gone home he told me he took my car to honda to get them to put it on the scanner they also couldn't find anything?! so he says?!?!, so he disconnected my EGR or so he told me that's what it was?! he unplugged a little tube and plugged the tube with a screw, and now my CEL is always on and i'm losing serious MPG, but the car works fine minus the CEL and MPG loss. I already posted a post about the EGR but i'm not sure if that's what he even unhooked?! that's what he told me he unhooked!! I would really like to hook it back up normal cause of my CEL always on and my MPG loss and just for other reasons, i'm sure that thing is there for a reason and he just goes and unhooks it and plugs it off... When i hook it back up normal my car goes right back to acting up again, barley starts\runs shitty\stalls\idles really rough...

ok your probably wondering why i took my car in if it worked fine in the first place... well reason for taking my car to the garage is because i wanted to see about my shifting problem my car wouldn't shift at 5000rpms it just bogged out around there, so he told me i needed this and that and $400.00 later i have a car that's working worse then before with new distributor cap, rotor button, and plugs and wires... seems to me the car should work better?! oh and not to mention my EGR unplugged and plugged off with a screw!! how professional eh?!

heres a link to a couple pictures i took of what they unplugged and plugged with a screw!!

http://www.cardomain.com/id/88_delta_88

Someone please help me out and help get my car back to normal!!

1994 Honda Accord Ex Canadian Lx American non vtec SOHC 2.2L

thanks a lot

 

If it starts acting up once you put the vacuum line on it then something is wrong with your egr system. Im not very familiar with this car but there shouldnt be any vacuum at that line at idle. From what you said- you have vacuum there at idle, which opens the egr (which shouldnt be open at idle) which makes your car run crappy.

ps. your mechanic = shitty

 

oh believe me my mechanic is shitty thats why i don't go there anymore, i should of went right to honda in the first place... but i was so used to going to this local garage for my past cars for minor repair, but since then the other mechanic left and theres a new guy there and i will no longer go there again...

is the EGR system fixable?! or do i just need to get a new car?! haha

im not good with cars i just want to get it fixed, but that local garage can't bring up any codes when they scan it and either can honda...

thanks though

 

so let me get this straight...did he disconnect the electrical connector or did he disconnect the vacumn line that goes to the EGR valve?

 

he disconnected that little black tube and plugged it off with a screw!!
he put a screw in the end of the black tube that he unhooked...
and with it like that the car runs good, except for the CEL and loss of MPG!!...

as seen in them pics if you clicked the link!!

 

i noticed something new today while i was parked with the car in park and just idleing... the car usually just idles around just below 1000rpms so like 800rpms or something like that?! well today it was bouncing around a little trying to go down to 800rpms and it was bouncing around between like 1000 and 2000rpms and it wouldn't drop to its normal idle speed...

can this be caused by what that stupid garage did to my EGR?!
cause the car never did it before till they screwed my car up...

i need to get it fixed bad, is it hard to scan the car yourself for codes?!
umm if someone knows how to check my year\model accord for codes that would be wicked!!

1994 honda accord ex canadian lx american non vtec, SOHC 2.2L automatic

thanks

 

The CEL service connector is located on the passenger side of the car behind the panel that is located right under the dash by the passenger side door. Put a wire (I used a paperclip) in the two holes to connect the two wires. Then turn your ignition on (no need to start you car) and your check engine light will flash the codes that are stored. A long flash means 10 and short flashes are 1. Example: Long short short, would be the trouble code for the EGR Valve. If there are multiple codes stored, there will be a pause between the codes so be sure to let it cycle through until it flashes the same codes again. I will try to get pictures up soon, and just let me know if you get the codes so I or someone else can tell you what they are for. Good Luck!

 

try taking out the egr valve and clean it with some carb cleaner. also clean out the ports, unplug the vacumm line and see how it runs.

 

ummm... how do i go about taking it out?! or which part is it?! haha

is it replaceable?! and not too expensive cause i'll just go buy another one, unless its not too hard to take out?! so i can save myself some money haha

 

ok i just tried scanning the car for codes myself!!

it went... LONG, SHORT, SHORT!!
and i let it go threw a few times and this is the one that keeps coming up...
so i'm taking it that's a code 12?!
which is EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)

before i checked the code i also hooked my EGR back up to normal!!

is that an expensive thing to get replaced?! or is it possible to replace it yourself?!

 

its not that hard to replace... dont know how much it cost but i dont think its too expensive. Well, at least you know what the problem is. Your mechanic put a screw on each end of the hose so there is no vacuum leak. Go to autozone, kragen,napa, etc. and buy a book for your car... less than 20 bucks. There it will tell you exactly how to replace the egr valve. I dont know about your car but its usually about 2 hoses, connector, and 2-3 screws that hold it in... not that complicated.

 

there's 2 bolts holding it down..I believe their 12mm. Discconect the electrical plug..take out the bolts and lift the egr valve up and grab some carb cleaner and spray some in there and grab a rag and clean it out. Try to get all of the black gunk out. I'm not sure on how much a new valve goes for. good luck.

 

ok wicked i'll give that a try then, do you think if its plugged up it will throw off a code like that?!

i just went to honda and to replace the EGR valve its going to be $515.00 canadian... with taxes and labour, i don't have that money just to get that fixed, i hope if i clean it like you said it will help!!

i'm not good with cars under the hood anyways so i hope i can find it and clean it like you said!!

thanks alot

 

try ur emission control box thats that little black box located on the back of ur firewall behind ur intake it controls all of ur vacum hoses.

 

Well i took out the EGR valve today and still no go...
i took it out and cleaned it up good with that carb cleaner and hooked it all back up normal, the car runs good for a little bit then starts acting up again...

the CEL hasn't came on since i done all this though!

but i'm sure it will...
i just don't have $515.00 to dish out for a new one, and if thats not even the problem then i'm out $515.00. The buddy at honda said thats what a code 12 is, the EGR lift sensor or whatever, he said it sounds like you need a new EGR valve

i don't know, thanks for all the help though

 

Well called a junk yard this morning got a second hand EGR valve for 70$
put that on and a new gasket!! still the same problem...
so my EGR valve didn't need to be replaced, honda told me it did...

but while i was looking around under the hood i noticed the vacuum lines 16 and 24 were criss crossed?! so i lined them all up 16 and 24 so they all run together now and the car works A1

i'm just wondering if those were criss crossed for a reason or no?! cause the vacuum hoses havent been changed they were like factory sealed right to the things?!

anyways thanks for all the help!!

 

well, if its not the egr itself, there is a egr lift sensor. i believe its connected to the egr somewhere. go to kragen or something and take a look at the book. if you dont want to spend $20 buying it, at least just look at it there and see how you can test it.

 

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you recently.... I'm glad to hear that you solved the problem with yours. That's really odd that the vacuum lines were wired incorrectly, or at least that switching them fixed the problem. Anyways, I fixed mine by disconnecting the Throttle Position Sensor... It was acting up while I was driving so I pulled into a gas station, disconnected the TPS, and it has been working great ever since. The only problem now is that my check engine light is always on, but I just bought a 90 accord parts car so I'm going to pull the other one out of that. If it starts acting up again, try this out.