Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

ECU Code Help...

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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:45 AM
  #1  
Rhymesayer's Avatar
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From: IE, Ca
Default ECU Code Help...

Ok checked the codes and it threw a 41 and a 4. Primary Oxygen sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Have no idea how to fix or even how they go bad in the first place? Any help and where I can look and if this is an easy fix hopefully. Any guidance would be appreciated. I have a 95 SI btw.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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Plan on budgeting for a new O2 sensor and a new distributor.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:01 AM
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Damn. I just replaced the distributor like 3 weeks ago. I would think it is not that but do you have any idea what could have caused this? Im not really to sure why the crankshaft position sensor is jacked.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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Default Re: (SiHatchR6)

Did you buy an AutoZone lifetime warranty distributor? If yes, take it back and try another one.

If you have a meter, you can measure the O2 heater resistance and compare to spec: 15-40 ohms.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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Yes, I did buy an autozone lifetime warranty distributor. I do have a meter but can you point me in the right direction. I think I know where the sensor is but im not sure. Do I measure with car on or car off? Also is it ok to drive with this not working?

One more thing is it possible I put the distributor on 180 degrees different? Meaning the shaft where it connects with the motor could that be opposite? I would think the motor would not run at all in that case. Let me know and ill turn it around and see if that makes a difference.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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Default Re: (SiHatchR6)

Not being a 5th gen guy, I'm not sure if you could put the dizzy 180* out-of-phase. But on the 6th gen's, there is no way - the key is actually offset from center. But if it was 180* out, the engine wouldn't run, or barely at all.

The O2 sensor is going to be the only sensor situated in the exhuast piping - sooo...just go out and look for it. You'll eventually find it sticking out of the exhaust (before the catalytic converter, if you have one) and it has 4 wires.

To measure the O2 heater resistance, disconnect the O2 sensor from the main engine harness. Using the meter, measure the resistance between the two black wires of the connector - 15-40 ohms is spec.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:38 AM
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Default Re: (EE_Chris)

Ok just took of my dizzy cap just to check if anything seemed odd. Everything seemed ok. So I put my cap back on and everything looks ok. Started up car again just for the hell of it and no check engine light. At all. So I drove around for a few minutes near bye just in case and nothing. Runs perfect. Im quite confused. I dont want to replace parts I dont have to and unfortunately I cant get my car off the ground right now. Dont have my ramps here. Should I just ignore it? My car will run fine without replacing the o2 sensor right?
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:42 AM
  #8  
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Default Re: (SiHatchR6)

One more thing. Im wondering if this was the problem. My distributor does not have a dust cap. Is it possible some of the dust got on the sensor in the dizzy? Im wondering if that was the problem. Its possible I suppose.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:46 AM
  #9  
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Default Re: (SiHatchR6)

When our engines warm-up, they like to go into a state called "closed loop". Closed loop uses the O2 sensor in order to make fine adjustments to the fuel mixture.

Will your car be OK without one - define OK? If your basically stock, then fix it. Rich mixtures kill catalytic converters, increase deposits and generally lead to rougher running.

For the distributor - your call. I'd return it and get a new one.
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