hey all, ill be to the point. i need:

(3) holes on my turbo have stripped threads, need them helicoil/timecerted
(1) downpipe flange on the downpipe needs milling/whatever to be straight again.
(1) weld around my 3" dp. \

What should i be willing to pay and not be getting screwed? not too much right? with the right tools, doesnt it seem they could do this pretty damn quickly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chihuahuamanx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey all, ill be to the point. i need:

(3) holes on my turbo have stripped threads, need them helicoil/timecerted
(1) downpipe flange on the downpipe needs milling/whatever to be straight again.
(1) weld around my 3" dp. \

What should i be willing to pay and not be getting screwed? not too much right? with the right tools, doesnt it seem they could do this pretty damn quickly?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If your downpipe flange isn't welded on, why would it need resurfacing?

Anyway, check into having it done at a weld shop. You can likely drill the holes out and put bigger bolts in them, avoiding the need for a helicoil.

You likely don't really need the precision of having the flange resurfaced. A belt sander will get plenty flat enough for a good gasket to seal.

If it were me doing the work, I'd feel guilty charging anything over $100, and maybe less. however, a machine shop probably won't touch the stuff for that.

 

well the flange is pretty damn warped, thats what stripped the thread ont he turbo in the first place.

You think drilling them out will fix the holes? if the flange is nice n straight, i wont have to tq them down too hard to get a good seal right?

 

You may be best off to cut the flange off the downpipe, bolt it to the turbine housing, then weld the pipe back on it while it's bolted up. Of course you want to do this without the gasket in place.

If you drill them out, you sill need to retap them to a larger bolt size. Just find the appropriate drill bit, tap, and replacement bolts before you drill it out.

 

how hard is it to tap the cast steel housing? The only time I have fucked up a tap is chasing threads on a turbine housing so im thinking that actually tapping one would be a delicate process.

 

yea thats why i think im going to let the shop do it. I really dont wanna **** anything up, ive come WAY too far to mess up here. EVERYTHING else is on the car ready to go, this is just raping me for time

and again, everyone think that 100 for the whole process sounds good?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how hard is it to tap the cast steel housing? The only time I have fucked up a tap is chasing threads on a turbine housing so im thinking that actually tapping one would be a delicate process.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not too hard. With the PROPER drill bit size, and lubricant, it's not anything hard to do at all, comared to tapping any other type of material.

 

how long would it take an expirienced machinist dyou think?

 

TTT

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's not too hard. With the PROPER drill bit size, and lubricant, it's not anything hard to do at all, comared to tapping any other type of material.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh, you'd think chasing threads would be easier. I drill and tap alu and mild steel all the time. I always use the right bit too, must have been retarted that day.

 

in my machine building days, I used to use reverse rotation drill bits to drill out broken bolts...usually by the time you got done drilling, the old bolt would come out and the threads were saved..it does take some skill and precision to do, but they shouldn't charge you too much.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Huh, you'd think chasing threads would be easier. I drill and tap alu and mild steel all the time. I always use the right bit too, must have been retarted that day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you want to chase threads? If the threads in there are bad, you can only clean them up where a bolt goes in...you can't put metal back on the threads where it has been messed up. Therefore, even if using a helicoil, the proper fix is to drill and tap to a larger helicoil, then put it and the oversized bolt in.

Even if you do a half *** fix just by cleaning up the threads with a tap, you really can't put the strength back in there that it had before.

 

Just cleaning them up, they were not stripped in my case, just happend to chip off a bit of the tap for some reason.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just cleaning them up, they were not stripped in my case, just happend to chip off a bit of the tap for some reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sure, if the threads are still good, I'd definitely not helicoil or retap it.
I've had great luck with bolt extractors. I have never broken one, and never failed in the task. Chasing the threads afterwards just to clean them out can't hurt.

 

well mine are stripped like a ****. any more suggestions? imunna try and drop by a machine shop i found in the yellow pages tomarrow.