Well, I made a couple parts lately for somebody and couldn't get any good pics of the inside of the weld. So, I had to just use a couple scraps and make a sample weld that I could get a pic of. It still wasn't too easy to get the pics, so don't be too critical of the pic quality. This was .035" wall thickness, and I think it was 2" diameter (didn't measure it and don't remember offhand).

This pic below was on the actual part I made for somebody else. Really crappy ic, but when the weld is about a foot down into the pipe, it's really hard to get light and focus down in there.

and another:


Although this one seems to get fatter and wider as it goes down, it really doesn't. Tthe areas that got the flash lighting seem bigger. This penetration didn't push any more than 1/32" into the pipe. This was the sample piece.


This is what you want on the inside of your manifolds. I don't know how many of the big companies are doing this, but there's a couple guys here on this forum that are making great progress on this.

Edited to add pic of the outside:


.035" wall thickness tubing gets really thin when they bend it 180 degrees.


Modified by Engloid at 9:41 PM 2/26/2005

 

look's nice...

 

man thats some nice weld with full penetration

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oxSLEEPERxo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man thats some nice weld with full penetration</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.

Full penetration is easy with material that thin.

 

That's great and all but dare I say, who cares.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostsohfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That's great and all but dare I say, who cares.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ALthough you don't use the proper punctuation that a question should have, I'll pretend your question is worthy of an answer.

Answer:
Possibly somebody that is buying a manifold and want's to know what full penetration, purged welding should look. Or possibly somebody that is practicing their welding, and wants to know what it should look like.

 

I care, looks good.

Engloid: you never answered my question in the other thread, have you got your B pressure ticket?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cua0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I care, looks good.

Engloid: you never answered my question in the other thread, have you got your B pressure ticket?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know where you are, but we don't have that here that I know of. It's likely an equivalent of ASME Sect IV....and I've held well over 30 certs for that. I'm not sure how many really. I just weld and let the employer worry about whether THEY have the proper paperwork on me

 

Did you use a turn chuck for those?

 

gorgeous welds

 

looks good very nice example

wheres the .028???

 

no filler correct. looks very nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostsohfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That's great and all but dare I say, who cares.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you care if you received something that wasn't purged and looked like this on the inside?



Even if it looked like this on the outside

 

Looks damn good Engloid. I want a Tig now!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sure that's not just one piece of tubing and you just discolored it and made some weld marks on it?

J/K! That's awesome work! I'm going to print that out and hang it over my welding table.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zornig &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no filler correct. looks very nice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did add just a little bit of 1/16" wire.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> looks good very nice example

wheres the .028??? </TD></TR></TABLE>
This was less than .028" on the outside of the bends...but if you want me to weld some .028", send me some scraps and I'll do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you use a turn chuck for those?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No. I had it in a vise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thanks.

Full penetration is easy with material that thin. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no, thin material melts thru and leaves a hole. how the hell did you do that?? i gotta work on my welding skills. that is just ******* amazing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tyranosauras-rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no, thin material melts thru and leaves a hole. how the hell did you do that?? i gotta work on my welding skills. that is just ******* amazing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's like riding a bicycle....easy if you know how.

If you burn a hole, you're either too hot or too slow. For most guys, the problem will be welding too hot.

Walking the cup is a valuable skill also.

 

i find it more difficult for me to weld the thicker the materials is!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i find it more difficult for me to weld the thicker the materials is!</TD></TR></TABLE>

That can often be caused by improper joint preparation (bevel). Many people think that full penetration means that you have to weld the entire thickness in one pass, and this is seldom the case. If I weld 1/4" material and want full penetration with tig, it will likely be done in 3-4 passes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's like riding a bicycle....easy if you know how.

If you burn a hole, you're either too hot or too slow. For most guys, the problem will be welding too hot.

Walking the cup is a valuable skill also.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my problem may be that it is too hot but if you run it cooler then it is harder to get an arc going to start welding. either way though that weld is fabulous

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tyranosauras-rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my problem may be that it is too hot but if you run it cooler then it is harder to get an arc going to start welding. either way though that weld is fabulous</TD></TR></TABLE>

It works fine for me. You must not have a Miller.

 

lolz...i use a miller. i think i just suck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tyranosauras-rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lolz...i use a miller. i think i just suck</TD></TR></TABLE>

It takes just a little bit of heat on material this thin. I havn't looked, as my machine only shows the digital amperage readout WHILE welding....but it's probably taking about 30-40 amps to weld this material.

I think most machines that are out these days will easily go that low, and many will go down to 2-5 amps.

Just practice. Increase heat very slowly when you fire up. You can also purge it and put a clear lens over the end of the pipe, letting a friend watch and tell you when you've melted the inside.

You likely just go too hot, as it will melt through long before it blows a hole...unless you're quite a bit too hot.