is there anyway to get rid of spark knock?!

'94 Accord ex canadian AT non v-tec

 

Clarify more please? What does it do? A certain RPM?

not to sound dumb but what exactly do you mean by spark knock?

If it is what I think it is (firing too soon) then maybe you have wrong type of plugs, wires or maybe a bad distributor.

Or maybe it's the wrong type of fuel. Spark knock comes from too low of an octane when a higher octane is required...


I hope I helped even though I don't think I did.

 

umm.. i just mean by like a ping\pingy\rattling noise while accelerating and keeping a steady speed with just a little pressure on the gas peddle!!
i'm gonna try a high grade fuel my cars on dead empty right now so i'm going to go fill it up with surpreme in a little bit!!

the noise is hard to explain, i'm pretty sure spark knock is what its called?!

thanks for the help though!!

 

Could be valve noise/click. how long has it been since your last valve adjustment?
sohc

 

Try a higher octane gas

 

I already said that.

If the noise doesn't go away after the higher octane gasoline then what you're hearing is probably what was said by SOHCMAN. My valves frickin talk to me! I don't yet know how to adjust my valves myself and until I figure it out they are going to stay like that. If it really REALLY annoys you and you don't have the money to have a pro do it then try this oil additive called Risoline (SP?)

I had a 93 Eclipse that had valve tap dances every time I fired her up. I didn't know crap about cars then so I added the risoline in and she went away until the next oil change. It also helps lubricate a bit and cleans up any sludge in your oil system.

I hope I helped.

B.

 

Wicked thanks a lot! yeah i tried a high octane gas yesturday when i filled my car up, the noise is almost gone, you can still here it a tiny bit but the surpreme gas seems to help it a lot!!

thanks for all the help!!

 

I just adjusted my valves by checking the clearance between the rocker arm and springs. That helped a ton. It's nearly quiet as a mouse now sooo... there is another solution.

Good luck man.

 

Awesome, how hard is it to adjust the valves yourself?! or would it be better if someone else did it for me?! my engine is noisy it sounds like a diesel... i don't know what other accord engines sound like cause i'm like the only person with one around here so... haha

thanks

 

Two things to consider.

1. How familiar are you with engines?

2. Can you spare a few hours if you aren't?


I work on engines all day everyday at work... so I'm pretty familiar with them. I know how to adjust valves already so it was easy as hell for me. All I had to do was get the specs for the valves.

First things first, buy a haynes manual and this is for my 94 accord 2.2 non-vtec.

intake valve is 0.009-0.011 inches and exhaust is 0.011-0.013 inches.

Those measurements are for things called "feeler guages" and what you do is,

1. Remove valve cover.

2. Identify your components. Intake valves are towards firewall and exhaust valves are closest to the headlights. 8 valves on each side.

3. Bring #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke. To tell what top dead center is, do this.


A. Remove driver's side front tire. Please remember to use jack stands and not just a jack to hold your car up.

B. Remove the pulley cover. Mine is held on by a few 10MM bolts.

C. remove all spark plugs.

D. Place long screwdriver, scribe, something long and skinny into the spark plug hole GENTLY.

E. Take a 19MM socket to the crankshaft pulley bolt. Using a breaker bar (or whatever it is you have than you can turn this bolt easily with) turn the crank pulley bolt COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Number 1 cylinder is closest to distributor.

F. You should see the valves going up and down as they go through their cycles and you should also see the screwdriver (or whatever you used) going up and down in the spark plug hole.

G. Now when you see the screwdriver going up and the valves on that cylinder are not moving at all through that cycle, then you're on the compression stroke.

H. When the screwdriver goes as high as it can, the valves are down (intake and exhaust) fully, then you're at top dead center. You can go back and forth to find the top most point.

I. Voila, you're at top dead center on the compression stroke on cylinder one.


All of this took me about 15 minutes, including removing the tire and everything else. May take you a little longer. Remember this though, take your time and do it right the first time Vs. Save time and do it fast, then have to spend more time to fix it later. Now to continue with adjusting the valve clearance.

4. Now that you have the number one cylinder at top dead center you can adjust the valves. There are four valves per cylinder, two intake and two exhaust. It doesn't matter which one's you do first but the exhaust valves on this engine are a breeze compared to the intake. There is a 10mm nut holding a flathead screw in place. You don't need the flathead for this. Just break all four of the 10mm nuts loose.

5. Now you can back the screw out with your hand. DON'T BACK IT ALL THE WAY OUT! Not really that important since you can put it right back in but it will waste time.

6. Using the feeler guages and the proper spec for the valve you're doing, place the feeler guage inbetween the spring and the rocker arm. If you press down slightly on the back of the rocker arm you should be able to see where the feeler guage slides inbetween.

7. Hold the feeler guage in place and tighten the screw back down by hand til you no longer can. Drag the guage back and forth and feel for how tight it is. Is it like a virgin where you are tuggin at the thing to make it move or is it like a Las Vegas crack ho where you can't feel anything? Neither are good. Adjust it to where you can pull it back and forth BUT you still feel some drag. Just imagine dragging a peice of paper out from under a slightly heavy object.

8. Now using the screwdriver (you may want two people for this), hold that screw as steady as possible. Whomever is holding the screwdriver must NOT be pressing down on it. Just holding it in place is what they're doing. NOT pressing down. This is very important. Check your clearance again with the feeler guage to make sure you're good and still holding the screwdriver in place, tighten the 10mm nut back down and make sure it's good and tight.

9. Double check your clearance after you have tightened the nut down and make sure it's still good. If it is then congratulations, you've adjusted the valve correctly. If you can't get the guage to go back in or it's back to the crack ho, restart.

Now keep going with the rest of the valves. The order you want to do them in is this.

1-3-4-2. That is the quickest compression cycle on that engine. You will only have to turn the crank pulley a small amount before getting to the next cylinder's compression stroke. Don't forget to pull the screwdriver out and put the spark plugs back in.

Here is how the cylinder's are placed.

Distributor here. #1, #2, #3, #4, and the pulley's are over here.

This is for my 94 LX f22b2. Non-vtec 2.2. This should also apply to the later years of 95, 96 and 97 of the same engine.

It may look long but it only took me an hour and a half and I didn't have all the right tools up front so it took some time for getting the right tools.

Good luck man.

B.

 

Still having a lot of spark knock! i think its getting worse?
I've been using the highest grade fuel around here i think its like 97? for about a month now and i'm still using it, and i'm still getting a really bad spark knock!

i looked in my Haynes book and under trouble shooting theres a section for spark knock! most of the things that it says i had replaced! except ignition timing? whatever that is? its like inside the alternator or something? do you think this could be causing my spark knock? also it says in that book under lacking power which my car is, yet again every things been replaced or adjusted except ignition timing?

i magine it can't be too much to get that replaced or adjusted it should it?
or do you not think that's what it is? someone help me out!!

thanks

 

You adjust the valve lash yet?. And no you don't have to take the tire and cover off! Simply turn the wheel to the left, there's a hole in the cover. You just have to be willing to crawl on the ground.

might try running some injector cleaner hmm...

what do the plugs and wires look like, cap and rotor stuff like that...you sure you're getting a reliable spark? Does it vibrate roughly or feel like its missing at all?

ignition timing could be off I suppose

 

whats the valve lash?

all the plugs\wires\distributor\rotor all been replaced!

and i'm 99% sure its spark knock! that ping\pingy\rattling noise on acceleration!

 

my car made that noise on accelleration when when cam timing was off by a tooth on the camshaft. is there any way this could be the case for you?

 

no idea? i don't even know what that is?
is there a way a garage or local shop can hook it up to something and find out where the spark knock is coming from?

also my engine is very noisy well it seems noisy to me anyways! kinda sounds like a mini diesel not as loud as a diesel diesel!

 

That whole lengthy right up the guy wrote for you, that is to fix valve lash.

 

yeah i seen that but i don't know how to do that! haha

how much would it cost roughly to get them adjusted? it seems like it would take like 7 hours?!

do you think spark knock could be caused by the valves need adjusting?

thanks

 

Check your ignition timing, if it is off it will cause spark knock.

 

ok so you think ignition timing too? that's what it says in the Haynes book for spark knock and lack of engine power!

is it hard to adjust it yourself?

thanks

 

i don't know, but it ain't gonna fix itself

we can sit around and play the what if game all day, its up to you to do something about it...you got all the info you need

 

whatever you say!

sorry for trying to get a little help

maybe i'll go and make one of those priceless intakes you made for your ride! ha

na i'll go and get my spark knock fixed!

 

say what you want...at least I know what I'm doing

You been playing the what if game for two months in here, why don't you do SOMETHING? I say it again, the problem is not going to fix itself. It's up to you to take the initiative, and maybe even get you hands dirty, to find and fix the problem.

 

Well i finally got my car fixed! my timing belt was off by 6 degrees! which was causing me to have a lot of spark knock!

thanks for the help guys!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord0494 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i finally got my car fixed! my timing belt was off by 6 degrees! which was causing me to have a lot of spark knock!

thanks for the help guys!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Glad you figured it out. How did you go about getting it narrowed down to that?