https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1158846

Brand new. All I did was open the bag to inspect it

I'm decided to keep the wonderful luxuries of A/C and PS so I don't need it anymore

 

Price is a little high...

 

Err, k, I will do some adjusting then...

 

so is there an actual gain with one of these? what differs when your driving the car??

<---- who had a aftermarket pulley stolen out of his garage with a fully built motor

but if there is a decent gain i will think bout buying yours

 

I don't see why there wouldnt be any gains. After all you're removing PS and A/C. On top of that you're only going to be running the altenator belt on a lightened pulley.

 

ive already removed ps and ac, is there any gain with using a lighter crank pulley? how much lighter can it be?

 

I think stock pulley is 10lbs as mentioned on some sites. I haven't weighed mine but it should be 1.8 lbs.

 

The N1 crank pulley lacks the harmonic damper (inside the stock pulley)... Be careful with it....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The N1 crank pulley lacks the harmonic damper (inside the stock pulley)... Be careful with it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's a harmonic damper? Enlighten me please

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RisforTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's a harmonic damper? Enlighten me please </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's made of rubber and it's inside the stock pulley (inner ring). It dampens vibrations with certain frequencies.
This is why Inlinefour offers this: http://www.inlinefour.com/infourn1encr.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RisforTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think stock pulley is 10lbs as mentioned on some sites. I haven't weighed mine but it should be 1.8 lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When i weighed my stock pulley it weighed only 5lbs and not 10lbs, so all those sites that say it weighes 10lbs are very desperate for their money. Don't believe what they say. When i took my stock pulley to the machine shop and had the ac and ps pulleys shaved off it weighed around 1.8-1.9lbs with the harmonic damper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The N1 crank pulley lacks the harmonic damper (inside the stock pulley)... Be careful with it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

There has been a ton of debate, both here and in the RR/AX forum, over whether or not the dampener actually serves any purpose, and the "safety" of the N1 pulley.

Just sayin'.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RisforTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think stock pulley is 10lbs as mentioned on some sites. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's no way the stock pulley is 10lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There has been a ton of debate, both here and in the RR/AX forum, over whether or not the dampener actually serves any purpose, and the "safety" of the N1 pulley.

Just sayin'.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If I wasn't a fat sweaty lazy person I would put that on in a second! just sayin'

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There has been a ton of debate, both here and in the RR/AX forum, over whether or not the dampener actually serves any purpose, and the "safety" of the N1 pulley.

Just sayin'.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's probably something we will never find out, because the effects could be long long term effects.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's probably something we will never find out, because the effects could be long long term effects.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're probably right. Most people use the N1 pulley on race motors, which may not last long enough to show problems.

If I were not like Rob, I'd probably throw one on my imaginary Hype R

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

Key word being imaginary

Though I have been eyeing the AC bypass pulley for the old bricks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The N1 crank pulley lacks the harmonic damper (inside the stock pulley)... Be careful with it....</TD></TR></TABLE>

What a BS. Most Japanese engines are designed so well they are balanced internally. B18C5 is well balanced internally and does not have balancer. This an information from an engineer!

By using a lighter crank pulley WILL NOT affect the durability of the engine. Unless you are talking domestic here!

 

They are not talking about balancing, they are talking about harmonic vibrations...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.fluidampr.com/problem.htm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crankshaft Deflection - The Invisible Enemy
Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that results creates a torque spike - an extremely rapid rise in cylinder pressure. This pressure, applied to the top of the piston, becomes the force that is applied to the crankshaft through the connecting rod. Each torque spike is like a hammer blow. In fact, it hits with sufficient intensity that it not only causes the crankshaft to turn, it actually deflects or twists it. This twisting action and the resulting rebound (as the crank arm snaps back in the opposite direction) is known as torsional harmonic vibration. If not adequately controlled, torsional vibration causes rapid main bearing and main journal wear and possible crankshaft breakage.

Keeping Vibration in Check
Fortunately, harmonic vibration can be controlled by a vibration damper - which is also called a harmonic damper or erroneously a "harmonic balancer". The main purpose of a "harmonic damper" is to control harmonic vibration, not necessarily to balance the engine's rotating assembly.
Not All Dampers are Created Equal
Although harmonics occur over a broad range of engine speeds, rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive - they are tuned only to control harmonic vibrations that occur within a narrow band of rpm. However, there is more than one area within the operating range of a performance engine that critical harmonic vibrations occur, therefore, elastomer dampers may not be effective. The resulting lack of vibration control could prove to be very destructive. Rubber is also a poor dissipator of heat, and dampers by their nature create heat as they work to reduce vibration. As the rubber gets hotter, it does not work as well. Second, rubber breaks down when exposed to the elements. Over time, the rubber strip can crack and begin to deteriorate due to age and exposure. This can lead to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, and uncontrolled torsional vibration, which leads to costly parts breakage.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://shop.store.yahoo.com/hm-perfo...balancers.html &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Replacement "harmonic balancers" are quickly becoming a hot item for today's car owners.
The reason is "Harmonic Vibrations" which can lead to a variety of mechanical failures.
"Harmonic vibrations" are specific and repeated vibration patterns which pass through an object.
In today's cars, such vibrations result from the combustion of the air-fuel mixture.
Each time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod pounds the crankshaft journal
as the force turns the crankshaft, causing energy to be dispersed throughout the engine.
Multiply this by the number of cylinders (with variations in engine speed
and you have what is commonly called harmonic vibrations.

Some of the warning signs of harmonic balancer failure in a vehicle are:
•A leaking front main seal
•Visible deterioration of the rubber between the balancer hub and outer ring.
•Visible cracking or warping of the balancer hub or outer ring.
•Excessive engine vibration.
•Slipping, squealing drive belts, belt damage, accelerated belt wear or frequent belt replacement.
•A highly polished spot on pulley grooves (warped balancer).
•Elongation of the balancer keyway or wear on the balancer hub/crankshaft.
•Alternator, power steering pump, air conditioner or water pump failure.
•Engines that do not run properly when adjusting the timing, or poor performance and irregular idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.lmperformance.com/1683/2.html &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't feel them or hear them, but harmonic vibrations are at work inside EVERY internal combustion engine. That's not good. Similar to glass-shattering forces created by a high pitched note, harmonic vibrations cause metal fatigue and can cause significant power loss because crankshaft harmonics are transmitted to the camshaft and valvetrain.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So basically harmonic vibration is like a powerful soundwave that makes specific pitches and notes and can potentially cause damage to the motor?

 

y00 got it.