Anybody got pics of a 3" downpipe on their lude?
i've got a 2.5" dp on mine, but i've seen somewhere that a guy was able to fit a 3" dp while keeping a/c.......not even using some fancy sidewinder mani or anything like that. i think it was something like a rev-hard, drag, or turbonetics mani. i had a hell of a time fitting my 2.5" in there, and that's shaving and cutting a few things too.
so like i said, if you've got a 3" dp.......let's see it.
so like i said, if you've got a 3" dp.......let's see it.
I've seen it somewhere on here... I'm using a 2.5" and you could definitely make a 3" clear the AC if you have a nice tight bend but I'm not sure if you can clear the crossmember...
right.......a very tight bend. and i've already cut the lip off of my crossmember to fit the 2.5"........i guess i'd be willing to cut more to fit a 3". but i'd like to see pics.
3in will fit fine on the prelude... i ran one on my 01 lude and it cleared a/c and the crossmember fine... unfortunatly i have no pics b/c 2 days after i had the dp custom made my motor blew
... but to answer your ? yes a 3in definatly fits...
... but to answer your ? yes a 3in definatly fits...
i had a drag gen 4 w/ac and ps at the time and 3" dp...well the first 3" or sowas 2.5 cause it was hard to clear everything i had at the time...dont quote me but i think the prob was the bend that was needed w/the ps made it impossible to put a bolt in the bottom of the 4 bolt housing w/a 3" pipe...was hard w/the 2.5, so i used a stud kit...
hold on a min for pics
hold on a min for pics
i think that's one of the main problems with a 3" dp......is that the bend has to be so close to the flange that it's hard to get the bolts in it. if there was a v-band t3 sc-61 that would be awesome, but unfortunately there's not. i know it can be done because i've seen pictures before, but i'd like to look at them again to see how things were done in that tight space.
I used to have 3" downpipe, but it used scrape because it was too low. Now I got 2.5" downpipe and no scrape. I got South Florida Performance manifold and it is hard to clear everything, so I took the AC compressor and some of the AC lines out. I have to cut a piece off engine mount to fit the turbo and even shave the block.


This is my 2.5" downpipe my brother made for me.


This is how it looks after the engine is finish.



This is my 2.5" downpipe my brother made for me.


This is how it looks after the engine is finish.

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looks good man. i like the way you routed your ic piping.....must be a lot easier without those M@TH#A$F#@CK$^NG a/c lines in the way.
I can't tell you how bad i wanted to rip those bitches off and burn them when i was routing mine. I shaved my motor mount down a lot too.......it looks just like yours. i've also got the sfp mani, so i'm glad to see that you got the 3" dp in there. thanks for the pics.
I can't tell you how bad i wanted to rip those bitches off and burn them when i was routing mine. I shaved my motor mount down a lot too.......it looks just like yours. i've also got the sfp mani, so i'm glad to see that you got the 3" dp in there. thanks for the pics.
93h22turbo----i'm curious.....is your dumptube really curvy? mine had to go down under the radiator hose, then back up over the clutch master cylinder lines then back down straight to the ground. i know that's what is causing me to creep so bad, but i couldn't find a better route.......is that how you did yours?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pullig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you still got that H23 turbo manifold for sell
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I still have the H23 Drag turbo manifold for sell.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes I still have the H23 Drag turbo manifold for sell.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChrisRicketts »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">93h22turbo----i'm curious.....is your dumptube really curvy? mine had to go down under the radiator hose, then back up over the clutch master cylinder lines then back down straight to the ground. i know that's what is causing me to creep so bad, but i couldn't find a better route.......is that how you did yours?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes mine is too curvy, but mine goes to the close to the block and motor mount than to the ground.
yes mine is too curvy, but mine goes to the close to the block and motor mount than to the ground.
i got the same problem you are having, i gotta shave some of my block, how much of a risk is there cutting the front engine mount bracket i need to shave a good bit of it off, little more than you i believe, when you swap the h22 in a hatch, you dont even use that mount, do ya? so is it there just for added benefit?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaussol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got the same problem you are having, i gotta shave some of my block, how much of a risk is there cutting the front engine mount bracket i need to shave a good bit of it off, little more than you i believe, when you swap the h22 in a hatch, you dont even use that mount, do ya? so is it there just for added benefit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
there's not really any risk in shaving the front motor mount. but i wouldn't remove it completely. i don't think it would end the world or anything if you did......but i wouldn't advise it. as far as the consequences.....i'm not really sure? maybe more vibration and it may let the engine rock back and forth more than usual, causing strain on the manifold and exhaust. that's just a guess......i guess.
there's not really any risk in shaving the front motor mount. but i wouldn't remove it completely. i don't think it would end the world or anything if you did......but i wouldn't advise it. as far as the consequences.....i'm not really sure? maybe more vibration and it may let the engine rock back and forth more than usual, causing strain on the manifold and exhaust. that's just a guess......i guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pullig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sent an email to you </TD></TR></TABLE>
Reply the email to you.
Reply the email to you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaussol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got the same problem you are having, i gotta shave some of my block, how much of a risk is there cutting the front engine mount bracket i need to shave a good bit of it off, little more than you i believe, when you swap the h22 in a hatch, you dont even use that mount, do ya? so is it there just for added benefit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
There is no risk on cutting the front motor mount bracket. If you want buy the red motor mount insert like me for front and back it makes your engine stiff. Since I put that in my engine never rocks. See picture....
There is no risk on cutting the front motor mount bracket. If you want buy the red motor mount insert like me for front and back it makes your engine stiff. Since I put that in my engine never rocks. See picture....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ehhh i have a 3 inch dp without a/c does that count??</TD></TR></TABLE>
no that doesn't count. but it counts if you have a 4" dp with no a/c.
no that doesn't count. but it counts if you have a 4" dp with no a/c.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pullig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure cuz i havent recieved one from you talk to me on AIm Cpullig1585 thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
I sent you IM to this screen name.
I sent you IM to this screen name.
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gogunkergorilla
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