Well,

As some of you probably know, I swapped in an JDM H22A for my USDM H22A4.

I used all of the OBD-II parts and made the H22A run as the H22A4 would. Mostly for reasons involving New Jersey's inspection requirements.

After the swap, I kept getting a MISFIRE (MIL & DTC: P0301 B) on ONLY cylinder #1!

The problem turned out to be a sticky EGR valve.

The valve appears to have been sticking open just a little, and the movement of the valve was very rough.

This was not enough to effect the operation on the H22A4, but I suspect that the H22A is just enough of a higher perfromance motor that it was causing problems for it.

I took the EGR valve off the H22A's 4th Gen intake manifold, and put it on the 5th Gen manifold (the EGR is that same on both)... no more misfire.

The car never threw a code indicating that the EGR system was having issues.

 

Glad you got it fixed!! I know stuff like that can drive you nuts.

 

What was driving me nuts about it was that there was really no indication as to what it could be.

After talking to a few people, like SharkCohen, I finally arrived at probably having a clogged EGR port.

Before I went through the trouble of cleaning that (not fun), I decided to do a more expensive search.

It turned out that a guy at PO.com had the same exact problem, and it took him 4 months to figure it out! He told me that his EGR valve was stuck open ever so slightly...

...and that that was leaking some exhaust gas into the IM... and cylinder #1 being furthest away (also the leanest) would misfire...

 

now aint that some ****, a sticky egr causing a missfire, ill tell you that is a really odd problem, and it never threw a code?

im really glad that you fixed your problem. i also have a friend right now that has a car exhibiting the same issue, ill be sure to post up if this fixes it.

thanks gerhard

 

I've heard that the EGR will cause RANDOM misfires... and it's one of the first things you should check... but if it's cylinder specific... well, it's just not as obvious.

 

I'm in the middle of doing this swap. I have a few questions for you guys....

Did you run the obd1 oil pump housing without the mounting locations for the CKP/CYP sensors? You simply ran the 4 wires directly to the distributor, yes? Big jussin did it that way so I just wanted to double check.

 

I believe Gerhard used the H22a4 oil pump housing and the OBDII distributor so the CKP and CYP would be plug-n-play. I would do the same

 

Plug and play would be good... but the customer doesn't feel like spending extra for a new oil pump as well as the labor associated to install it.

I made a custom wire harness to run everything to the dizzy. Now I just have to figure out which wires go where, lol.

Also, would it be smarter to use the obd2 dizzy with external coil or should I convert the jdm obd1 dizzy with internal coil for use on the obd2 harness?

 

The Shark is correct.

Joon525 and Specialique came over and we transfered everything over from the oil motor that was required to run the engine OBD-II.

Once I got a grip on the misfire, everything runs just fine.

There is nothing insanely difficult about transferring the H22A4 oil pump to the H22A motor... it's litteral plug and play.

All you need is some Honda Bond (or Permatex Gray)...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plug and play would be good... but the customer doesn't feel like spending extra for a new oil pump as well as the labor associated to install it.

I made a custom wire harness to run everything to the dizzy. Now I just have to figure out which wires go where, lol.

Also, would it be smarter to use the obd2 dizzy with external coil or should I convert the jdm obd1 dizzy with internal coil for use on the obd2 harness?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am assuming your going to be using the obd1 p13 correct? what I would personally do is get an obd1 dizzy and run the wires from the oil pump to the dizzy area and use an obd1 dizzy harness plug, to wire it all up. you can probably figure out where each wire goes by tracing the obd2&gt;1 jumper harness at the ecu. Reason i'd go with obd1 dizzy is because it is slotted and you can rotate it to adjust the timing, wehre as if you stuck with the obd2 u cant move it. if you had a standalone that would be fine since you don't need to move it. Oh and internal or external doesn't really matter all preference in how you want to wire it. I'd keep it external seeing as it already has the coil mounted there and the plugs avaliable for it on the harness so might as well.

As far as the oil pump goes, I would just keep the h22a4 oil pump there and leave the connector dangling. well not litterally dangling but u konw waht i mean

This is all going on the assumption that you are doing a h22a4 to h22a/1 swap in a 5g shell.


oh yeah let me go ahead and flame you for having 8000+ post and not knowing this kinda of basic stufff,

 

blah reading comprehension owns me, i just reread everything and realized what you are doing, haha. but umm... yeah i dont see why you still can't use an obd1 dizzy as long as you wire it up correctly. same goes, internal or external coil doesnt matter

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eddiebx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
oh yeah let me go ahead and flame you for having 8000+ post and not knowing this kinda of basic stufff, </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. I have the swap 98% done but I wanted to get another opinion. It's always good to be 110% sure. I found out the wiring for everything so hopefully it will crank right up.

 

yeah the **** is trivial once you figure which wire goes where, sounds like you should have no problem

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

lol. I have the swap 98% done but I wanted to get another opinion. It's always good to be 110% sure. I found out the wiring for everything so hopefully it will crank right up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you find out if everything works out with the wiring could you post the wire schematics, I will be converting to OBD1 to OBD2 and it would be great if I don't have to get the OBD2 distributor.

 

I think wiring schematics would be a good faq addition. Even if people have a helm, it won't always have JDM or OBD1 vs OBD2 wiring details. With some good diagrams, swappers would have more options to get things going with whatever parts are on hand.