thinking of building a motor and just want some insight and opinions
currently i am running a b18b in my car with a b16 tranny
its been fun for the past year and a half or so but still doesnt compare to the GSR swap i had in my hatchback. so heres the plan.
please keep in mind that i am on a budget and cant have alot of downtime (my car is daily driven) and i have a GSR crank, rods, new b16 water pump and p28, and GSR oil pan just sitting in my garage.
just buy a b16a longblock, drop it in my car (all i need to buy is a wiring harness and the LB) and run it for a little while, untill i build the bottom end of my LS. the plans for the LS include, putting in the GSR crank and rods and buying OS CTR pistons. have a local machine shop (they are good and do all the work for a local shop with some of the fastest cars around) assemble the bottom end with all new bearings and gaskets (duh) and than buy a GSR oil pump and timing belt. plans also include a ACT flywheel 6-puck sprung clutch and extreme pressure plate, and the golden eagle LS/VTEC conversion kit with the head gasket and oil lines. than when the time comes all i will have to do is bolt on the B16 head (ARP studs of course) and drop it in the car. eventully i will also purchase ITR valvetrain and CTR cams.
so here come the questions:
1. will i achieve my power goal of about 170-180 WHP using all OEM honda parts?
2. would an 8lb or 12lb flywheel be better for this application (for driveability)?
3. does it sound reliable?
if their is anything i am forgetting let me know
its been fun for the past year and a half or so but still doesnt compare to the GSR swap i had in my hatchback. so heres the plan.
please keep in mind that i am on a budget and cant have alot of downtime (my car is daily driven) and i have a GSR crank, rods, new b16 water pump and p28, and GSR oil pan just sitting in my garage.
just buy a b16a longblock, drop it in my car (all i need to buy is a wiring harness and the LB) and run it for a little while, untill i build the bottom end of my LS. the plans for the LS include, putting in the GSR crank and rods and buying OS CTR pistons. have a local machine shop (they are good and do all the work for a local shop with some of the fastest cars around) assemble the bottom end with all new bearings and gaskets (duh) and than buy a GSR oil pump and timing belt. plans also include a ACT flywheel 6-puck sprung clutch and extreme pressure plate, and the golden eagle LS/VTEC conversion kit with the head gasket and oil lines. than when the time comes all i will have to do is bolt on the B16 head (ARP studs of course) and drop it in the car. eventully i will also purchase ITR valvetrain and CTR cams.
so here come the questions:
1. will i achieve my power goal of about 170-180 WHP using all OEM honda parts?
2. would an 8lb or 12lb flywheel be better for this application (for driveability)?
3. does it sound reliable?
if their is anything i am forgetting let me know
its not a bad idea. You should be able to get 170 with oem parts with a little tuning. would go with a 9lb flywheel for driveability. one question? will you be using a piggyback ecu with this setup
Use the ls crank and rods.Have the rods rebuilt with ARP bolts.It will make more power than the gsr crank/rods.Don't worry about the r/s ratio crap.Its a minor difference between the two.
Glenn
Glenn
this is exactly why i posted
my buddys have hondata, zdyne, chrome, and uberdata software as well as a chip burner and a one is jesus at soldering, i already have a chipped LS ecu in my car now that we've done with chrome but i figure i'll throw a base hondata GSR map on it and go from there
the R/S ratio was what i was worried about because i keep reading about how "they arnt desined to rev that high" or "there not strong enough". i was planning on the ARP rod bolts just forgot to mention them above. i was planning on running the GSR crank cause i just figured it was balanced for a higher RPM
one more question. should i run a knock sensor?
my buddys have hondata, zdyne, chrome, and uberdata software as well as a chip burner and a one is jesus at soldering, i already have a chipped LS ecu in my car now that we've done with chrome but i figure i'll throw a base hondata GSR map on it and go from there
the R/S ratio was what i was worried about because i keep reading about how "they arnt desined to rev that high" or "there not strong enough". i was planning on the ARP rod bolts just forgot to mention them above. i was planning on running the GSR crank cause i just figured it was balanced for a higher RPM
one more question. should i run a knock sensor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoRdShishi0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to run a knock sensor or vtec will not kick in unless its program in your ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>
he is running a p28...no knock
he is running a p28...no knock
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
he is running a p28...no knock</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactally, but if i put a base tune for a GSR will it look for it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92WhiteEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would stick with you plan of running gsr crank and rods if you planning on taking the motor apart... your not going to make more power w/ the ls crank so mise well use the bes r/s ratio </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats why i was thinking like i was.
he is running a p28...no knock</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactally, but if i put a base tune for a GSR will it look for it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92WhiteEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would stick with you plan of running gsr crank and rods if you planning on taking the motor apart... your not going to make more power w/ the ls crank so mise well use the bes r/s ratio </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats why i was thinking like i was.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88hondahatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
exactally, but if i put a base tune for a GSR will it look for it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how can it look for whats not there?....the p28 has no knock board....when you chip it you will have to disable knock routine if the program has it....
exactally, but if i put a base tune for a GSR will it look for it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
how can it look for whats not there?....the p28 has no knock board....when you chip it you will have to disable knock routine if the program has it....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k.civic.si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how can it look for whats not there?....the p28 has no knock board....when you chip it you will have to disable knock routine if the program has it....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt know it was a seperate board, just figured it was handled by the ROM. like i said my buddys do that stuff for me.
thanks for the info
how can it look for whats not there?....the p28 has no knock board....when you chip it you will have to disable knock routine if the program has it....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
didnt know it was a seperate board, just figured it was handled by the ROM. like i said my buddys do that stuff for me.
thanks for the info
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leave ls crank if the motor is in good condition. just change the rod bolts to ARP and rebalance, go a lil tighter on the rod bearing cleanrance and change out the oil pump for a new one ... gsr pump is good to use. reprogram the p28 with the base b16 program andn bump up timing curve, dont go past 32 max advance at heavy load. before even touching the motor do a complete leakdown.
greg
greg
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