i figure you guys would have the most experience with different pads ..

i have a 95 accord with 11.2 prelude vtec rotors and 88 rx7 4 piston calipers..(i havent goty them mounted yet but will update if you guys are interested in the welfare brake upgrade .)

i plan on hitting a few track days but not an every weekend thin and mostly heavy street driving...
i was thining axxis metal masters ..i had them before and worked good but did get some brake fade ..but i didnt have any "real" back brakes as they werent working well...so inturn my brombo rotors crack on ever day street use .....

whats a good pad for not fading and still maintaning cold stoppign
thanks guys

 

search, search, search

 

oh i plan on flushing the fluid and using dot 4 ...any problems with that


SS lines will be in the future

 

i did some searching today and didnt find too much the was clearly to my situation

 

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 95 accord with 11.2 prelude vtec rotors and 88 rx7 4 piston calipers..(i havent goty them mounted yet but will update if you guys are interested in the welfare brake upgrade .)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sorry, but that sounds like an extremely haxored brake setup.

Metal masters are ok, Ultimates are much better.

 

im sorry you feel that way ....hwy do think its "haxored "...where else can you get a kit with 4 piston aluminium calipers for under 200 bucks...i thikn its a great idea
unless im issing somthing please let me know

 

Warning - I'm in an old fart mood today.

First, unless you are dragging a trailer over mountain passes, the only way you could be that hard on brakes - on the street - is if you are driving irresponsibly.

Second, I've gotten to the point where I'm a little impatient with people who just can't seem to keep brakes in cars during track days. It just might be your foot that needs to be modified, rather than the brakes. Part of the point of performance driving is to get the most out of the equipment, within the limits of the equipment. If the pads won't let you wait until the last shutdown marker, get on the binders earlier.

Third, the aftermarket has seriously warped people's conception of what it takes to build a brake system. Hey - bolt on a set of rotors and calipers and you are good to go! If you think about master cylinder diameters, you are being really cutting edge. What in the world makes us think that we can figure out something in our garage that is going to be better than the system that Honda (or whoever) put $ millions into developing?

Finally - lets be honest. If we are NOT driving like idiots on the street, the primary reason for aftermarket brake kits is cosmetic. They just look trick. Just once, I wish someone would post something like, "I know that this should be in the appearance forum but which rotors do you think look cooler with these wheels?"

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally - lets be honest. If we are NOT driving like idiots on the street, the primary reason for aftermarket brake kits is cosmetic. They just look trick. Just once, I wish someone would post something like, "I know that this should be in the appearance forum but which rotors do you think look cooler with these wheels?"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah but even if they did say that, you still wouldn't sell them a quick-release hub. And I went through all that trouble of drawing that logbook!

 

I sent a copy to the FIA and they determined that it was a very clever forgery.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Second, I've gotten to the point where I'm a little impatient with people who just can't seem to keep brakes in cars during track days. It just might be your foot that needs to be modified, rather than the brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Heh, my 3100+ lb BMW held up just fine with stock pads at VIR

 

Exactly.

 

see thats why im asking ..i dodnt have a proper 4 wheel brake set up lasy year so i probly expereinced alot of things with my front brakes that i shouldnt have on every day driving ..

stock paps may work perfect for me in the fact that this year i have good brakes on every corner ...and not just teh front to take all the beating....

 

Quit effing around with that scabbed together, Grandma's quilt brake setup that you have, get the stock brakes fixed so they do work properly on every corner, flush the system with good fluid, get a decent set of stock pads, or any one of the other manufacturers that people have listed here, or in RJ's 72 returned search results, and then determine whether you need to upgrade your pads based on what your activities are.

A good set of racing pads will probably be horrible for cold stopping power on the street.

If you're fronts are still taking all of the beating after getting them fixed, then as Kirk said, you're driving irresponsibly on the street, or improperly on the track. If your brake system isn't functioning properly, you know about it, it's not caught in a tech inspection or you don't mention it to the inspector, then you're asking for a world of hurt, not just to yourself, but also to those on the track around you. Take some effing responsibility for yourself, man. If I ever find out someone's on track with malfunctioning equipment as important as their brakes, there'd be hell to pay.

Sorry, got caught up in Kirk's well-placed tirade, and ran with it. Believe me, it's in your best interests to have a solid, dependable stock braking system, rather than some hacked together, on the cheap, "looks good" system, that ain't gonna do you **** going into a turn at 100mph when it fails.

Why would you even consider going "welfare" on a braking system? Like the man said, if Honda spends millions of dollars to design and develop a braking system, it says quite a bit about that braking system. Far better than you can scotch tape together with parts from different makes and models of cars.

End rant.

 

o k i ghuess i need to explain my self more .....

have you ever changed rotors on a 95 accord ..its about a 4 hours juob..its a hub over rotor and i hate it ..i thikn 10ich rotors are not very big considereing my car is pretty heavy 3000+pounds..

now that all my brakes are shot im replacing EVERY componet from front to back ..so in now way am i being unsafe ...i was just saying that last year i found out after the car was put away for the winter that my back brakes were doing very little and it would explian why my rotors and pads only lasted the year .....

so insted of have to go through the hell of a rotor swap i took the opertunity to change to an acura cl 98+ hub and have conventional rotor over hub ..at the same time i can upgrade to a 11.2 inch prelude vtec rotor...doesnt sound so bad ..
prelude calipers are not any diferetn then the accord calipers except there a little larger but still a single piston....

some people upgrade the 2 piston legend calipers but spend upwards of 300+ forthe pair even more for the nsx calipers...i cant afford that nor would i pay even if i coull..i think its not worth the money ..

i got the 4 piston calipers from my old rx7 i know they work good ...its not gonna be any different then any other caliper relocation kit yoiu would buy after market so when i say welfare i say it in a funny term becuase i dont have a big budget liek some of you must have ...

so all in all i think it will work great for my situation ..as far a sbeing un safe you have no idea how its gonna turn out or what kind of work i do ..
i still dotn know why im gettign flamed here ...not everbody has the money to do brand name stuff ..im sorry i cant afford the same stuff you guys do but we all have to start somewhere ...

im sorry for not searching ..oh wait id did search and its very hard to find info regarding my situation ....not every one of those post would help me out ...

this will be my last post in this section and i want to say im happy your all loaded and dont have any thought as to being creative.....you give this place a bad name ...if this is all because i didnt search ..then im sorry ..i wasnt lazy i had a question that was specific to my set up ......

 

Whoa there buddy. I venture to say that most of us run in classes that require stock brakes, and most of us, with good pads and fluid, don't have any trouble getting the car slowed down. It's not that we're loaded with cash and can buy fancy name-brand 10 piston calipers and cross-drilled slotted bling rotors. We run stock hardware (aftermarket pads/fluid). And it works.

You came in here because "[you] bet [us] guys know brake pads". Then you dismiss what we suggest. OK, your call. But we're not going to congratulate you for piecing together a mish-mash brake setup.

Yeah, the design of the hub over rotor sucks on your year Accord. Dunno who thought of it, but what a mess. Good luck with your re-designed brakes. Hope they stop your car.

 

I am by no means a grammar ****, but Jesus at least try to put something coherent together.

No one is saying "dont upgrade the brakes". Everyone is saying "your stock components will work a HELL of a lot better than your cobbled together setup with good pads and good driving". There is nothing wrong with the setup Honda put on the car, except maybe for the inconvience swapping rotors are with a captive setup (as well as a slightly more limited wheel selection, at least in my case, due to the rotor bolts), when it comes to brake performance. Good pads, fresh rotors, good fluid with a good bleed, and not driving like an asshat will go a long way.

Besides, it doesnt sound to me like you're doing all that much track time with your icy hawt pimpin accord, why is ease of swapping rotors all that important to you in the first place?

 

ok i understand ...it just sounded like every one was "higher"then me ,that was the feeling i got

i dotn plan to compete in any scca cause in canada there isnt a whole lot going on .
track days are about as good as it gets...

you see ive never driven on a good brake setup ie, SSLines good pads..just an all around good set up . It just made sense to go with the larger rotor for a cheaper price ..im on a budget and couldnt afford the lude calpiers (i thought my accord calipers would work with lude caliper brackets but i was wrong ) so instead i took the chance to get the calipers from the rx7..it might work it might not ..i can take critisism pretty well but some of these guys jumped on me and making fun .. made me feel like crap ...

and as far as replacing rotors ...i put on about 60 000km a year (about 40 000 miles im guessing ...seems liek i might have to replace them again with in a year or so ...plus it was cheaper this way

and i guess because i dont drive a type r or civic , i have tio be icy hawt ricer boy ...please ..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Heh, my 3100+ lb BMW held up just fine with stock pads at VIR </TD></TR></TABLE>


you drive like a woman (no offense to women please, but he does drive like 99% of your population)....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machine4321 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i figure you guys would have the most experience with different pads ..
.
.
.
whats a good pad for not fading and still maintaning cold stoppign</TD></TR></TABLE>

GT Sport pads from Cobalt Friction.

I've tried most of the pads on the market, and this is my favorite pad for the type of usage you're asking about. By far.

 

thank you very much.....

 

replace stock stuff, dot4 fluid and I personally like Porterfiels R4-S pads for street/trackday. (one-hand typing rules).

 

machine4321 - The...pauses.........are.........even...makingwill iam.......shatner.............................jeal ous

 

HAHAHA funniest thing ove heard all week ..good stuff ...........it makes up for my bad grammer and out of control typing

 

gosh the know it alls are making it complicated again. machine dude: don't midn these fools, they think anybody that's new to this forum must be clueless...

the simple answer to your question is, Cobalt Friction's GT-Sport compound track worthy and fully street able (warms up fast, easy on rotor when hot or cold) and unless you push them _really_ really hard you won't fade them. I have first hand experience with all the popular USA pads and CF is the best IMO. pads I've driven on the track includes, Ferodo, Hawk, Axxis, Endless, Raybestos, Carbotech, Porterfield, Brakeman, EBC... and more.