If you have a fabbed B-series torque mounts, show pics please. If you are selling it, let me know too. I'm really more interested about buying it. More specifically, the driver side... Thanks


Modified by thermal at 11:20 AM 2/22/2005


Modified by thermal at 3:50 AM 2/25/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thermal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a fabbed B-series torque, show pics please. If you are sliing it, let me know too. I'm really more interested about buying it. More specifically, the driver side... Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

i need a torque mount myself, stock or aftermarket, its better than nothing

 

I've seen somebody made one using aluminum. I'm not sure how strong that would be tho...

 

on a b series swap we did in a crx we used the factory side mounts on engine and relocated where they mount to the frame. for the front and rear mounts we used 5/8'' heims and radious rods. the engine is now solid mounted in their because there is no give on the front and rear mounts plus you have the ability to adjust the angle of the engine to get your axle angle good.

 

nice^

 

we also got a perfect straigth axle angle on this swap.when sitting on the ground with the axles and half shaft out you can look through the hub, straight through the differnetial and through the other hub.

 

my race car is like that.....

just dont see you shutting a hood on a street car that way. unless ya got a big *** cowl.

 

i'm doing a custom hood. instead of doing cowl i took the stock hood cut out all under webbing to lighten it up. cut along the factory lines and angles where the usdm hood dips down and i bent it up 2.75" in the front to clear the engine. i then tack weld it all back down and hit it with fiberglass and bondo to get it really nice looking again.

 

nice.

do you have any shots of the car at the moment?

 

i havent finished the hood and the car isnt running but i can get some shots of it this evening when i get to the shop. right now i am at school.

 

i used a pice of 1/8th or 1/4 inch steel (i cant remember) it was the "L" angle iron.

drilled 2 holes in it over the stock gsR style mount, and bolted it down. it then lays forward towards the headlights about 4 inches.

then i found a piece made by edelbrock, it is a right hand thread on one end and a left hand thread on the other, it is a 2 way threded collar. got some 1/2 inch radius rod ends and threded them in

then bolted one end up by the shock tower and one to the piece of theeel i fabbed up,
'
when you turn the collar one way it pushes themotor forward and if you turn it the other way it puls it toward the firewall. i have all 5 mounts in my EG and still use to get alot of motor travel

but not anymore, i have pics i will load up later, but it really stiffened the motor and somewhat preloads it as well

 

Avid has the lower torque mounts in billet aluminum. We are releasing them next week. Need some more info on it callus 866-507-2843 and I'll guide you to a dealer near you.

 

here is mine from the above explanation

 

^not a bad idea

 

Avid, can you show pics on what you have now?

 

there is a company who makes one of these called "silvers racing" from hong kong, it was okay i used it for a month, but it is a shock absorber type, and from launching on slicks i busted it, even with all my mounts in!

so i just bought some **** from a catalogue and used some steel from lowes and fabbed this up, it aint pretty right now but it will be.

and it registers torque too, a hell of a lot more. cause after i spread the collar out and moved the motor forward, all my **** started rattling so i know it pinned the motor some.

i am thinking i can do this in multiple spots too, on the back of the motor, around the back mount and somewhere over by the tranny too.

i have also learned that with this type of mount it is better to pull than push, but if you can pull and push and stabilize it better it works real nice

 

Word of caution:

Adding solid torque mounts to the stock spot welded body will cause the panels to rip apart at the stock weld points. You might want to add MORE spot welds to the engine bay area if you add a solid torque mount.

 

I did my own Ghetto Style torque damper. I just rip off a mountain bike damper and use it as a torque damper.. The spring is pretty strong rated at 750lbs, I know its over rated spring but **** works. I welded a steel plate on the engine mount and a L bracket on the chassis. here is a pic of it.

 

dude thats tight, nice ghetto fabbin"

and as far as the body rippin to shreds, i dont think its gonna happen with my motor, although it was an 11 second car with 200hp less 5 months ago, its a racecar and i plan on going to a 1 piece front end.

i just dont see my front end falling off, maybe in a crx with no front crossmember or somethin

 

leeit2me, that is ghetto fab-ulous!
nice work.

 

What does this do that my poly mount inserts don't do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXDrew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What does this do that my poly mount inserts don't do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you forget teh bling factor.

 

ha ha.. I like that adjustable one..

 

i had every energy suspension mount in the car that was made on earth, and still boost really owned them.......quickly

them motor still moved 4 inches and dented my hood, i will take pics of that too for ya. i have HOOD ACNE!

but with my configuration of mounts i should be okay now.

i am making some lower ones this week, ill post em up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you forget teh bling factor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha,really.
i just don't see those engine struts doing anything.they attach at a point right at the axis,where there's hardly any movement.no to mention they have inches of movement,where i'm worried about less than an inch of movement.they use sketchy looking mounting brackets that would flex long before a heavy damper would move...also,what do you do to control movement on the passenger side?!
if mount inserts don't provide enough control,go with aftermarket solid urethane mounts,or make your own.my car,making over 300HP,on slicks is fine with inserts in the lower front and rear mount.i know that cars making more power may need something more than inserts,but i just can't see how these engine dampers are the answer.
Chris