I've got 450 miles on my Type-S. I've done a lot of research and have talked to multiple people about the break in method, and I just wanted to hear some more input.

One person I talked to told me to go hard, take up to 5-6rpm, wait til i get to 5-600 miles and get an oil change.

Most people tell me to take it easy for the first 2 k. Keep rpm under 3-4 for the first thousand, and then under 4-5 for the 2nd thousand.

Any opinions?

 

Drive it like a champ. Don't baby the motor. I took my car to the redline when i first took it off of the lot and i only had 7 miles on the car. Dragged the car the next week at Englishtown.

 

I'm sure there's reason why they want you to take it slow when you have fresh engine. Take it slow and enjoy it after the engine and brake has been used to moving and stopping. Honda dealer actually didn't let me change the oil until I drove 5,000 miles, because there's some additives that needed to be soaked into the engine.

 

the most used and conventional route would be, don't accelerate hard, don't brake hard, and do not stay at a constant rpm until you reach 600 miles. some people believe the motors are already broken in from the factory and you should drive it like you stole it.

as far as oil changes, some engine builders recommend changing the oil as soon as 20miles, some say follow the manufacturer recommendations (5k severe, 10k normal driving).

if i were you i'd probably follow the conventional route just so you won't have any problems with the dealer if you have valvetrain problems early.

 

I drove our 02 hard from the start, I took it through VTEC in the first 3 gears on the test drive. It's now got 75,xxx on the clock & still runs like a champ.

 

Why don't you just drive it like it's costing you 25K to own or more when everything is all said and done.

There's really no reason to drive a car hard unless your at the track or in the twisties.

Whenever I get a new car I just take a trip up to frisco and back which ends up like 1000 miles and when I am done I change the oil/filter/trans fluid. And wala!

 

If the engine is going to have problems, it's going to develop them within the first few revolutions of the crankshaft. If everything is torqued to spec and properly clearanced, you should be able to rag the **** out of it right out of the chute. Engines are not magical and they don't have personalities. You're not going to hurt its feelings by running it up to redline with 15 miles on the clock.

Bearings are oiled within a few revolutions, oil pressure is good after a couple minutes, clearances are as real and true as they'll ever be, rings are seated as well as they ever will be and everything is in proper working order. Go forth and VTEC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSXisS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've got 450 miles on my Type-S. I've done a lot of research and have talked to multiple people about the break in method, and I just wanted to hear some more input.

Any opinions?
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Anything wrong with following the recomendations in the Owner's Manual?

It's your car and you're welcome to do what you want with it, but you might avoid some hassle with the dealer if you have any warranty issues in the future.

 

i kept mine under the vtec switch over for the first 250 miles and then up to around 6,500 till 500, then after 500 8,200

 

what's the vtec switch?

 

A well broken in motor will out last a motor that skipped the break in process. Why would Honda recommend it, if it wasn't needed? You need to drive the motor at different speeds at all times during the break in process (esp. on the freeway). Also you want to keep the rpms relatively low, under 4k? Each car is different. But you definetly want to stay away from redline during break in! This will help seat the piston rings evenly at different rpms, so you won't get any oil leaks, f*cked up valves, etc in the future. IMO, DO NOT SKIP THE BREAK IN PROCESS.

 

You guys are a bunch of nubs.. http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

Honda wouldn't sell an unbroken in motor.

 

Yeah, the tech's break in your motor when they arrive on the lot....

 

i've got 10 miles on my new type S....this is gonna take a while. lol

 

yea i skirted straight outta of the lot wen i bought...it runs fine just as long as u warm it up before u drive cuz it has a high idle if it isnt warmed up....like 2k then it drops to 1k after warm up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys are a bunch of nubs.. http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

Honda wouldn't sell an unbroken in motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no offense but did you even read that ?

first of all the grammar is **** - not exactly putting your best business foot forward. I mean fawk talk about noob

second - Import Builders and RSX ? - um no thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stormy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no offense but did you even read that ?

first of all the grammar is **** - not exactly putting your best business foot forward. I mean fawk talk about noob

second - Import Builders and RSX ? - um no thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I just find a random page and link it with out reading.
I dont want your input about them.

Of all the fucken the things some idiot comes by and mentions grammar.

IB knows there stuff and they were one of the first to make a kit for k-series blocks.

for example killer 24 for k24 blocks.

 

What does IB have to do with the original question... Best break-in technique for 05 RSX-S?

And BTW, reading (or trying to) that link made me cringe.

 

I'm not sure what everyone else goes by, I just went by the 600 miles from the car manual. I then ripped it to redline, at around 620 miles...

 

There is some pretty useless and typically-said information on this thread.

Okay, I work at a dealership (Ford. Yes, I know, different than honda/acura), and my friend works at a Hyundai dealership (yes, yes, i know).

They both use the same methods for breaking the parts in. When the brand new cars arrive with 0 miles, they have to be broken in immediately by a technician, or porters designated for breaking in new cars.

If you turn on a brand new car that hasn't been driven even for test drives, you will hear HORRIBLE valvetrain noises. Everything is extremely loud, it runs, but it really sounds rough.

That means that it's not broken in at all. The dealership has to break it in.
They usually run an ATF (automatic transmission fluid)/Oil solution into the engine. Yes, that's right, they pour ATF mixed with oil into the engines.

After that, they run the engines really hard for a few miles... at my friend's dealership, some of the tech's floor it in circles around the service lot, and some just go around some backroads and drive it to high RPM's for a few miles.
(Note: They don't just MASH on the gas abruptly, they smoothly go to WOT)

After that, the engine valvetrain noise dissapears, and they change the mixture out for factory oil. It's broken in (but not FULLY broken in. I will explain this later).


Okay, when Honda or Acura write (break in smoothly for 1000 miles) in the owner's manuals.... they already know the motor is broken in by the dealership.

They put this because alot of times, people are idiots. Here is why people are idiots:
1. They rev their brand new engines really high before it is warmed up to operating temperature (and it's best to wait a few minutes after the temp gauge is in the operating zone/middle).

2. THERE ARE OTHER PARTS IN YOUR CAR BESIDES YOUR MOTOR. (I will explain why this is important later).

This break-in period is kind of deterring for those idiot drivers, to help them upkeep their cars during the first few miles.

Okay something that you may or may not have known. Is an engine broken in after you put 1,000 miles on it? No.
500 miles? No.
10,000 miles? No.

Generally, on most engines, they are not FULLY/COMPLETELY broken in until they reach around 100,000 miles.

You may or may not believe this but... as your engine age/mileage increases, it becomes more and more powerful, more and more fuel efficient, and more and more responsive.
At around 100,000 miles, your engine is at it's PEAK PERFORMANCE.

Everything goes downhill from there.

(This doesn't mean you have to baby your car until 100,000 miles).

About OTHER PARTS ON YOUR CAR.

Your car does not only use an engine. It has a transmission (with gears, synchros, shift linkage, etc), a differential, a small assed driveshaft (for your FWD's), axles, suspension, and a BUNCH of other components.

Unlike the engine, these parts are not necessarily broken in for hard use from the factory or in the dealership!

You have to break these parts in as well. Your transmission. YES.
Clutch? YES (you don't want it to start slipping at 20K miles now do you?)

A bunch of parts need smooth engagement and easy operation for a few hundred miles to ensure that they last and perform to the fullest.

Don't just think that if your motor runs fine even if you took it to 9K at 7 miles on the odometer and the car is fine, that the rest of the car will be the same.


It's all up to you guys... If you're the type that just buys cars every 3 years (really stupid in my opinion), then go ahead and **** around.

But, if you want to keep your car for the rest of it's life, break in EVERYTHING smoothly, and any way you want.
And take care of your car maintenance-wise.
(Oil changes, tire rotations, air pressure fill ups, coolant system flushes, transmission system flushes, suspension component tightening/torque, etc..)


I hope this all helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The HamsterBall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When the brand new cars arrive with 0 miles, they have to be broken in immediately by a technician, or porters designated for breaking in new cars.

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I never bought a new Ford, but having some "designated" porter trash a new car for me makes sure I never will.

ATF? Engine break-in oil should have a high moly content. That's why it's not recomended to change oil in Honda/Acura engines until 5000 miles. As for noisy valve trains, never heard of that. Sure, the valve lash 'might' change during break-in a little bit, but never noisey in the delivered vehicle unless someone f'd up at the factory.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Perfectionist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I never bought a new Ford, but having some "designated" porter trash a new car for me makes sure I never will.

ATF? Engine break-in oil should have a high moly content. That's why it's not recomended to change oil in Honda/Acura engines until 5000 miles. As for noisy valve trains, never heard of that. Sure, the valve lash 'might' change during break-in a little bit, but never noisey in the delivered vehicle unless someone f'd up at the factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The HamsterBall &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is some pretty useless and typically-said information on this thread.

Generally, on most engines, they are not FULLY/COMPLETELY broken in until they reach around 100,000 miles.

You may or may not believe this but... as your engine age/mileage increases, it becomes more and more powerful, more and more fuel efficient, and more and more responsive.
At around 100,000 miles, your engine is at it's PEAK PERFORMANCE.

Everything goes downhill from there.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhhh no...in no way is your car at MAX performance at 100,000 ESPECIALLY IN A FORD!

By then you'll have carbon buildup on vavles/pistons/ports, dirty injectors, etc. Things that aren't on the maintenance schedule will bring your performance down, ie. compression changes, fuel maps not matching intended burn characteristics.

You can't just make up this BS man, I don't know who's yankin your chain on that one but you should sit them down.

Vince

 

i was at the dealership today and talked to a tech. He says cars arrive at the dealership with 0 miles, and then they drive it for about 5 at varying speeds and rpms. He said after about 600-800 miles, you're car's ready to go. I asked him if it's cool to redline after 800 miles. He gave me a big technical no no on redlining, but winked as to say yea, it's all good after 800.

 

When I picked mine up I asked the guy at the dealership what not to do. He told me to keep it under 4,500 or so for the firts 500-600 miles, and then it should be good to go. Also be sure to keep it at varying rpm's, especially when on the freeway for the first few hundred miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MidShipCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes I just find a random page and link it with out reading.
I dont want your input about them.

Of all the fucken the things some idiot comes by and mentions grammar.

IB knows there stuff and they were one of the first to make a kit for k-series blocks.

for example killer 24 for k24 blocks.


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of course you don't want any input your too thick in the head to understand it anyway.

FYI I live 25 miles from Import Builders so I see there work all the time, and if by killer you mean DOA then yeah that sounds about right. And his grammer is a perfect example of just how sloppy jeff is, would you send someone that kind of money.

My all time favorite quote is "If you give me 5k I'll produce dyno charts"

so like I said before. Import builders and K series - no thanks