hey guys, i am wondering if you have ever heard of a Type R having an issue with burning oil.

I am asking because some people where i work told me that honda cars are known for burning oil and owners having to add oil to the engine between oil changes.

I didn't believe this but last summer, i started having this problem with my 2001 integra type r.

The mileage is only 32 000 km, and i ususally change my oil every 4 000 km. But last summer, i decided to change to synthetic oil from mobil 1 and now, i am loosing oil?

only engine mods so far is an AEM cold air intake.

Last time i have checked, i was missing 2 liters of oil and not even 3 000 km has passed since my last oil change.

The acura dealer is giving problems for warranty.

Could the engine be defected? Could the synthetic oil be the problem? And if i change back to normal oil, will this cause any harm to the car? because other than more expensive oil, i haven't noticed any difference from switching to synthetic, but maybe it is just me?

elmo

 

synthetic oil will burn in the ITR. it happens to most who use mobil 1 synthetic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nishant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">synthetic oil will burn in the ITR. it happens to most who use mobil 1 synthetic</TD></TR></TABLE>


i second that. sythetic burns fast in my caR

 

I've dropped 5 quarts in since my last oil change

 

I must vouch for this one....Mobil 1 synthetic dont last in #1036.....Im thinking about going for something thicker like 15weight

 

for the same weight of oil; Synthetic is thinner but protects better than the same weight of dino.

Thinner means less windage resistance; freeing up power.

BUT it also means that it will get past rings.


1. Use thicker weight syntetic oil
OR
2. Go back to the thicker Dino oil

 

WOW, I am very happy to hear that my problem wasn't caused by defected engine. I had a feeling that mobil 1 synthetic oil had something to do with this but wasn't sure. Even the dealer didn't know about anything. They are idiots. I guess because the Type R revs at high RPMs, and because synthetic oil is so thin, the oil finishes fast. but i don't see black smoke comin from my muffler though.

I have 3 questions now:

1- I am using 10W30 synthetic oil. If i want to go up in more oil weight, what grade would be recommended?

2. What do you guys mean by Dino oil? Do you guys mean regular oil? And if I go back to normal oil without doing an internal engine flush, will this be safe for my car's engine?

3- if i like to push my car from time to time, to red line, and i only drive in the summer, which oil type would be best to stick with?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i decided to change to synthetic oil from mobil 1</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't understand. Mobil 1 is synthetic oil. Were you using Mobil conventional oil, or Mobil 1 synthetic oil?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WOW, I am very happy to hear that my problem wasn't caused by defected engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not a "problem". Many ITRs consume oil. There's nothing wrong with your car. You can keep using synthetic oil if you like.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1- I am using 10W30 synthetic oil. If i want to go up in more oil weight, what grade would be recommended?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The North American owner's manual recommends 5W30. That's why I use Mobil 1 5W30.

There are some people here who use thicker viscosities. If you want to try using something thicker, go ahead.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. What do you guys mean by Dino oil? Do you guys mean regular oil?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, conventional oil (not synthetic).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if I go back to normal oil without doing an internal engine flush, will this be safe for my car's engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3- if i like to push my car from time to time, to red line, and i only drive in the summer, which oil type would be best to stick with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your usage is typical, and doesn't have any effect on what kind of oil to use.

Hi, .RJ!

 

but why is it that most integras consume oil? and where does the oil go if there is no black smoke coming ou of my muffler? And that is not normal or a good thing for an engine to be doing this, no?

And why don't the specialized Acura mechanics know any of this?

All the dealer was good at, was to give me problems, so warranty won't cover anything if needed to be fixed in the engine.

elmo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but why is it that most integras consume oil? and where does the oil go if there is no black smoke coming ou of my muffler? And that is not normal or a good thing for an engine to be doing this, no?

And why don't the specialized Acura mechanics know any of this?

All the dealer was good at, was to give me problems, so warranty won't cover anything if needed to be fixed in the engine.

elmo</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've owned two integras already, and neither burned oil. I was the first owner for both vehicles and they ran fine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time i have checked, i was missing 2 liters of oil and not even 3 000 km has passed since my last oil change. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn that is quite a bit of consumption. 3 quarts every 1800 miles. I wouldn't want it to get that low. I would recomend checking it every time you fill up with gas.

 

is it safe from switching back to conventional after using synthetic?? cuz im thinking about switching back and some people say its fine and others say not to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danny98r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is it safe from switching back to conventional after using synthetic?? cuz im thinking about switching back and some people say its fine and others say not to</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it is fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1- I am using 10W30 synthetic oil. If i want to go up in more oil weight, what grade would be recommended?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

10W40

 

thanks guys for all the replies and the info

I have decided that i will stick with synthetic oil, 10W30 or switch to 10W40.

not sure yet, and i am also trying to decide on whether to go with red line oil or the new mobil 1 EP oil. There is this other oil that is called Amsoil. I have never heard about them but they claim to be better than mobil 1 and much better than redline oil.

I have decided to try out the red line coolant additive after reading about it on the red line site, anyone tried this?

So what do you guys think is best between red line, mobil 1 EP and Amsoil oils, and which grade is best?

And thanks to the member who posted the link for Bob oil site, it is great site with lots of info about oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Last time i have checked, i was missing 2 liters of oil and not even 3 000 km has passed since my last oil change.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's not normal, but some other people have the same problem. Read this: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1135915&page=1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time i have checked, i was missing 2 liters of oil and not even 3 000 km has passed since my last oil change.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cod Sac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn that is quite a bit of consumption. 3 quarts every 1800 miles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

More like 2.1 quarts every 1900 miles. (2.11 quarts every 1864 miles is even closer.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys think is best between red line, mobil 1 EP and Amsoil oils, and which grade is best?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think Redline, Mobil 1, and Amsoil are all quality synthetic oils. Mobil 1 is a lot less expensive. (You can get Mobil 1 for less than $24 for a case of six quarts, at both Sam's Club and Costco.) I use Mobil 1; I just don't think the differences between Mobil 1 and other brands are significant enough to pay a lot more for. YOMV.

As for "grade" - if you mean viscosity, see above.

Where's .RJ?

 

same here...nothing unusal...synthetic burns quicks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekay_jeremy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">synthetic burns quicks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is not an accurate conclusion, because there many people using synthetic oil without this problem, including me.

 

with most mobil 1 users...it does. for what reason i don't know

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elmoTypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys, i am wondering if you have ever heard of a Type R having an issue with burning oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, not here. (Hahahaha just kidding! This made me laugh out loud)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The North American owner's manual recommends 5W30. That's why I use Mobil 1 5W30.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, like it says on the USDM oil cap, "API SJ SAE 5W30 Energy Conserving". (Hi Ken!)


There are some people here who use thicker viscosities. If you want to try using something thicker, go ahead. I use 15w50 Mobil1 on the track, and yesterday I had to limp home 880 miles with a bad ringland, using 20w50 Valvoline VR1 racing oil. I used to run Mobil1 5w30.

Burning oil isn't the end of the world, either. If you like a 10w30 synth, or running synthetic in general, just carry a couple quarts in your trunk. 2 quarts (liters) in 3000 km is on the high side. If I were you and couldn't get it warrantied, switch to a standard 10w40 or thicker. Also check your plugs, maybe it will give you a clue as to where the oil is going.

Also "dino oil" == dinosaur oil (petroleum based)

 

i used castrol blend syn 1st time.(everything was good no problem..but i saw few posts about syn oils are kinda bad for over time). iam thinking change it to castrol GTX for life.lol for 00gsr 39000miles...its all about change oil at right miles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where's .RJ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Recovering from VIR

 

Is VIR recovering from .RJ, too?

 

I had a really bad oil burning problem too and i've tried all kinds of oils with the same results.

Just recently switched over to Amsoil 10w-30 and have had the best results so far in comparison with all the others I used. Just my .02