im lookin to get some more weight to the back of my car. over the summer i got alot of oversteer after removing the rear seats carpet and spare tire. im putting in tien flex camber kits and itr sway but i still want to balance to car a little better. so i figured id relocate the battery-fun project and empties out the engine bay a little more . anybody have any tips on wire guage, where to pass wires through the firewall etc? any tips would be super

 

Well when I did my project I used, and still using a 0 guage wire. But it still fine to use a 2 gauge wire. Don't have any pic right know so I can't help you with that.

 

yea i was thinkin 0 its about the same as the stockers. any idea where is an easy way to pass em through the firewall? i thinkh im gonna run them along the pass side under the carpet.

 

how about getting light weight battery?? T1R,Spoon,ect...

 

too much money for a battery- plus im in debt like nobodys buisness from my suspension

 

Right under the factory battery tray is a hole in the firewall that should have a rubber plug in it. Pull that plug, cut a hole in it for the cable and use it as a grommet to protect the cable from rubbing against the firewall. I would recommend using a single 0 gauge cable with as many individual strands as possible. Remember that resistance increases as the conductor lengthens. Using a larger cable will compensate for this. You can use 1 or 2 gauge too, but IMO, it's worth getting the single 0. Try to keep it away from other wires, especially speaker/amp wires to prevent any EM interference. Also protect it if it's near an area where the shielding can be cut causing the wire to ground out, to protect your DC2 from electrical fires!

 

2ga audio wire probably flows better than 0ga stock... Also, if you're running the power wire through the vehicle, try KnuKonceptz.com power wire, they make a "flat" version fyi.

 

alright great thanks for the info- one more question..... should i just splice the new wires onto the existing ones or should i remove the old completely and start fresh? idk is it possible to get the wire out of the fuse box?

 

That's up to how in depth you want to go. If I'm not mistaken, one wire goes to the fuse box (philips head or 8mm socket) and another one goes to the starter (12 mm socket). Splicing to the original cable would be easiest, but running new cable to the 2 locations would be cleaner. Maybe instead of splicing, throw in a power distribution block where the battery used to be????

 

i would def want to do a good job- i dont like to half *** things. it would be easier than soldering too..... a power distribution box?

 

Yeah you know, like the ones they use for amps and car audio and what not. Something like (but not exactly) this: http://www.123av.com/DetailPag...B-501

 

what would be a good one to use in my car? an where can i get it- im not really that familiar with audio/ electronic stuff

 

You just have to find the ones that fit the sizes of wires you decide to work with. How you mount it will be up to your. Search google for 'car audio' and variants, or go to your local stereo shop

 

i am doing the same thing in my da teg, and was wondering if u were using one of the relocation kits that are for sale, and if not, how are u going to mount the battery?

 

idk how the battery tray is set up in the da, but on mine there is a metal tray under the battery- so i took that out and cut off the protrusion on the bottom for mounting(so that its flat). there are three holes in the bottom of it so i marked off in the back of my car where to drill, and just bolted the metal tray back there using a bolt with metal washer and then a rubber one from a sink or what not for leakage delete. this way i can use the original threaded rods and batt hold down. im mounting mine right in the center against the trunk wall

 

engine bay looks mint with battery delete

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonjdmdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">idk how the battery tray is set up in the da, but on mine there is a metal tray under the battery- so i took that out and cut off the protrusion on the bottom for mounting(so that its flat). there are three holes in the bottom of it so i marked off in the back of my car where to drill, and just bolted the metal tray back there using a bolt with metal washer and then a rubber one from a sink or what not for leakage delete. this way i can use the original threaded rods and batt hold down. im mounting mine right in the center against the trunk wall</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow, i never thought of that, great idea!!!

 

Yes you can get a battery re location kit. Look at summit racing they have a few different kits, with wire and everything. Most of the NHRA hot rod guys do the same thing.

 

yea its comin along nicely- i gotta splice the wire that leads to the fuse box with the new one cuz i cant find an end small enough to fit in the fuse box--- how should i solder the two wires together? theyre thick as hell

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonjdmdc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea its comin along nicely- i gotta splice the wire that leads to the fuse box with the new one cuz i cant find an end small enough to fit in the fuse box--- how should i solder the two wires together? theyre thick as hell</TD></TR></TABLE>
id like to know the same as well, but wouldnt regular electric solder do the trick?

 

where's the pics?

 

yeah pics man

 

any pics yet?

 

yea im just gonna heat up[ the wires w/ a propane torch and solder em- i need to find a digi cam and take some pics asap

 

i just finished the install and it went real smooth. i soldered the wire from the fuse box at a 90 degree with the wire coming from the starter and ran the single line through the firewall and underneath the console and under the carpet to the passengerside up behind the plastic. i ended up mounting the batt. a little further forward so there would be room for the em racing trunk bar i will get eventually. my stock battery is shot from sitting over the winter (i forgot to put it on a tender) so i just ordered the buddyclub racing spec battery (40% lighter than stock!) ill get some pics on as soon as i can get my freind over herre to take some so check back