I was just wondering, would it be possible to inexpensively have it to where the High profile performance lobes were being used all the time - in other words a permanent fix to only run on the "VTEC" cam profile. And could you do this without the VTEC system, hardwire it or mechanically fix it somehow? Don't care at all about fuel mileage on an Auto-X prepared/mod race only vehicle...

Just trying to see if this would be an easy way to up the power versus rebuilding the B18A from my '90 GS....which would have to have a lot done to it to up power from 130hp and 121lbft torque at the flywheel...

I've also submitted this question in the Tech section....

 

The answer is yes, you can do this... but it will net you NO more top end power and in fact, your car would barely idle and run slower.

 

Inexpensive? I think that cost should not be in question...
http://www.todaracing.com/B162.html

Will

 

I am not sure why you would do this. If you wanted the hot cam on more often, a VTEC controller would allow you to specify the change over point, but eliminating the low cam altogether would just hurt your idle and low end...
But to answer your question, yes, it can be done. You could also just put a new cam in that does not have VTEC lobes, and defeat the solenoid...

 

There are $250 VTEC controllers that can do this. But on most VTEC engines there is little to be gained from engaging the big lobe early. At most you may see a few hp gain a couple of hundred RPM below the factory VTEC engagement RPM. In theory, it maybe possible to gain a few more HP several hundred RPM lower but the problem is that the ECU does not have the correct fuel/ignition maps for the big cam at low RPM. You'd need to reprogram the ECU...

 

You could do this by mech. locking the cam on the big lobes. You basically have to put a 'spacer' in with the syncro piston already in the vtec cam. The spacer would take the place of the oil pushing the pin over & locking in the big lobes. You might lose a little bit of low end power. Note that just switching to the big lobes (vtec controller or mech) does not alter the fuel map. A fuel controller & a adjustable reg. would be needed to net max power thru the rpm range. The real reason to do this is to protect the bottom end of the engine from oil starvation. The vtec system doen't know if the oil level is low. It will still take oil away. This is a proven modification that has been done for many years. Stay tuned. I know a respected racer who might be manufacturing/selling the locking pins soon.
added in edit: I know of cars that have this done without controllers. Idle is not a problem. Drivability in not a problem either.


[Modified by civicrr, 9:00 AM 1/18/2002]

 

If youre going to use only one of the profile sets, use the low-cam. These have one lobe per valve, whereas the VTEC set is one lobe for the intake set and one lobe for the exhaust set.

TODA fans will know better than me but I believe they made 'VTEC killer' cams to this effect.

 

I'm just trying to decide if I should keep the B18A that I currently have and just rebuild it back to factory specs or go with a GSR motor and have the extra 40hp and -4lbft torque.... I'd rather more torque than less, but as I'd be revving it up auto-Xing anyways the GSR motor wouldn't do too bad I think...especially with a Del sol or Civic Si tranny and Race tires. Not worried about idle or low end if I went with high profile only cam profile - would probably launch it at 5,000+ rpm...

If there's a way to get a lot more torque out of the B18A I'd rather do that though....Normally aspirated speaking...which would mean cams, timing, and fuel system work?

 

If you ran only the big cam lobe, the car would barely idle (if at all) and all power below 4500 rpm would be lost. It would be a total slug - way too much overlap for low end power. And on alot of courses you will fall out of the VTEC range, in slow 2nd/3rd gear corners (its better to leave it in gear most times than waste time shifting alot). Even if you launch at 5,000, you wont keep it up there the whole time. I would keep the current engine, and save the money you didnt spend on a B18C1 and use it towards track days and autoX schools.

if you are interested in autocrossing, race the car as is for now. extra power, suspension parts or race tires wont help right now... learn how hte car handles first for a season, then make upgrades - also, engine swaps will put your car in a different class, another thing to consider.

-Ryan

 

If you want torque and hp, then maybe it's time to build a CRV/Vtec or LS/Vtec engine?

 

I wish I could race the car "as is" right now, but the motor severly needs a rebuild, the tranny is shot, and I will need a trailor to transport it - which I don't have yet. I want to keep the mod's as simple and low cost as possible (save for the Quaife LSD if I don't find a suitable tranny with an LSD already). I'm not exactly new to Auto-X, but I do wish to attend some raceschools this year. What would really help is if I could attend the remaining Saturday practice sessions before some Sunday events this year - that would be nice! I just need to put the car together and have some way of transporting it to the track and I'll be set!

I was mainly just wondering out loud with this VETC lobe question, to see if it would be worth investigating, but from yall's input it would seem to be something really not worth the expense. I really just want to get the car back together as fast as possible so I don't have to keep using my truck to auto-x So here's my finalized plan for my car, and let me know if you have any suggestions:

Engine (B18A with about 190,000):
-rebuild bottom and top end, new water pump, new oil pump
-find a suitable close ratio transmission (currently looking for 90-91 Si, 92-93 GSR(I really want this transmission!), Del Sol, or as last resort a Type R or even GSR transmission)
-get ACT clutch kit for chosen transmission (street disc/HD pressure plate) and Quaife LSD (if no LSD in tranny)

Fuel/Air System:
-install a 5 gallon fuel cell in wheel well
-install all accessories for the fuel cell (high pressure fuel pump, fuel lines, fittings, etc)
-completely finish conversion to 5-speed and install a manual intake mainfold, ECU, and get rid of the EGR system
-(looking into) get rid of all wiring harness and install a Holley Commander engine management system...extra $$$$ though, maybe something for later on....

Brakes/Suspension:
I have recently new OEM rotors and Axxis pads installed already
-Remove the ABS system
-Replace Tokico / Eibach Pro dampener setup with Koni Sport / GC coilovers (Eibach)
-Get some 13x7 spun steel racing wheels (Circle or King Sports) and undecided tires (looking for either 215 or 225 sized tires)
-Put in a 19-22mm rear sway bar

Chassis/Body
-Remove all sound deadening (tar) from flooring
-Replace all the worn out stock rubber bushings with PE bushings (i.e. Energy suspension)
-Mount stock gauge pod to steering support bracket
-Install AutoPower 4-point racing rollbar
-Mount my Sparco Camlock 4-point harnesses properly after rollbar is installed
-Relocate and mount battery to passenger side floorboard area
-Fabricate front and rear shock tower struts (or get a Neuspeed Front strut brace at least and some other rear brace)
-fix shifter lever area from auto-conversion (center console area needs to be cut ot some more and a proper cover plate needs to be made)
-replace the cracked front windshield glass with Lexan (maybe eventually the rear glass too)
-remove side door glass, and completely gut the doors
-remove the "sunroof"

That's about it, anybody see anything I might have missed? What mods the car currently has are as follows:

First here's a look at the current state of the car:car images here

-Removed the A/C...a loooong time ago too
-Cruise control removed (didn't work after the manual conversion so I took it out)
-Removed stock fog lights and cut light housing bracket
-Removed windshield wiper arms, linkage and motors.
-Removed rear wiper arm and motor
-Removed all interior, including dash
-Removed rear spoiler

 

Thats alot of work to get ready for this season - good luck!

Also, on the tranny's, if you get a stock honda trans with a factory LSD it will be a one-way unit, where as a quaife will be a 2-way unit, possibly more expensive, but prices on quaife diffs have dropped...

-Ryan