UPDATE ON PAGE TWO!!!

Id just like to give a big F U to the passenger side lower control arm BALL JOINT. I completely mangled it with a bushing removal tool. But atleast I know the arm isnt going to fall off. I hope it passes inspection lol


edit: im stupid


Modified by RTW Ryan at 9:29 AM 2/17/2005


Modified by RTW Ryan at 12:40 AM 2/19/2005

 

thats one nut i hate removing most........

 

Lol I hate that ball joint. those are 35 bucks from the dealer with my employee discount

 

***, i hate removing the lower control arm

get a pry bar and wedge it in there and get someone to stand on the bar while you hold it in place to remove it

 

it might sound crude, but the easiest way to get that thing loose it hit the lower control arm right by the bolt a few times with a hammer. It will knock it loose. Works every time

 

niiiiiiiiiice

 

Whenever you try to pop those loose with a balljoint removing tool that compress on the end of the bolt you want to thread on the castle nut to make sure the bolt doesnt collapse. I guess hindsights 20/20.....

 

that really sucks

 

it prolly got pissed off that j00 were calling it by the wrong name...that's a ball joint...not a bushing...and j00're supposed to put the nut [backwards] on the stud (since it's drilled and weakend) to prevent this from happening

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMstance99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">niiiiiiiiiice</TD></TR></TABLE>

?????? What the? Haha. There should be a font for sarcastic comments... Cause I can't tell if he meant it in a funny way or not...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91’ LS-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that really sucks </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea it does...not too sure about how strict inspection is in NY.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HypeR1004 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">***, i hate removing the lower control arm

get a pry bar and wedge it in there and get someone to stand on the bar while you hold it in place to remove it
</TD></TR></TABLE> the correct tool is a pickle fork.

 

that happend to me when i was in the ghetto EF hatchback days, i stuck a nail threw the hole on the ball joint so the arm couldnt fall off if it wanted too.... i dont know how safe that was though lasted me a few months

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BS 22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea it does...not too sure about how strict inspection is in NY.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have yet to experience a strict inspection session in NY state. **Knocks on wood**

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it prolly got pissed off that j00 were calling it by the wrong name...that's a ball joint...not a bushing...and j00're supposed to put the nut [backwards] on the stud (since it's drilled and weakend) to prevent this from happening </TD></TR></TABLE> LOL!

 

pickle forks tear your lower ball joint boots...but i guess a lil oil on it will prevent that *so i heard* anyways..wack the **** out of the lower control arm and itll come loose..works every time! i once had that problem of not being able to break them bishes loose..but ever since i learned the wackin the **** out of it way....it hasnt failed me since.

good luck homie!

 

Use a pickle fork, either way, by you hammering the bottom ball joint where the screws goes on, I say your ball joint is already f*cked, making you have to change the ball joint, which is easy, I had a big hammer and a brick!

 

that is dangerous to drive, without a nut on the balljoint
it can still pop out, and if that happens at any speed, it will be ugly
the car will instantly drop, and the tires will slam into the fenders

 

It looks like you beat the threads of the ball joint with a B.F.H,You should of left the bolt on a couple of threads,Then hit it. That happened to me and the castle nut fell off as I was pulling out of a parking lot destroyed my fender. goodluck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it prolly got pissed off that j00 were calling it by the wrong name...that's a ball joint...not a bushing...and j00're supposed to put the nut [backwards] on the stud (since it's drilled and weakend) to prevent this from happening

</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha well it was late and i was tired and couldnt think of the correct name for it

I tried to turn the nut upside down, didnt work. I tried to bang the arm with a BFH, no dice. I tried the joint puller, the more I tightened the puller, the more twisted and bent the stud got. The damage is from the joint puller, not beating the threads with a hammer. So I threw the joint puller at my hatchback and dented the fender/hood

Dan, there is no way that thing is coming off. Even if it broke loose, no way the arm will work its way over the mangled-ness of the stud. When I drive it, it will be straight to a shop to get it fixed.

 

Hacksaw!....and i definitely wouldn't drive it like that....


Modified by El Pollo Diablo at 10:09 AM 2/17/2005

 

ryan, call me. we'll sort it out.


* DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTIL WE FIX IT


Modified by Rodney at 10:57 AM 2/17/2005

 

DON'T drive it like that it WILL pop out no matter how tight u think it is in there. If it pops out, you will more then likely ruin the axle and your fender. Happened to my buddy a couple weeks ago cause he forgot to put the castle nut back on. It fell apart less then a mile away from the shop.

Also you can never hit the LCA hard enough, so take a nice size hammer and WACK the sh*t out of it and it WILL pop off. Even the most difficult ones will eventually pop. I wouldn't use a pickle fork as there is too much risk in damaging the boot on the ball joint.

For a simple (temporary) fix it looks like u can sawzall or hacksaw the bent part off and at least thread the nut on to get to the shop

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW Ryan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dan, there is no way that thing is coming off. Even if it broke loose, no way the arm will work its way over the mangled-ness of the stud. When I drive it, it will be straight to a shop to get it fixed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

but think...all of the weight from the car...and all that force going down when you hit a bump or hole or anything in the road...that is a huge load on that...i could easily imagine that sliding right over the bolt...and ripping or bending off the mangled bottom of the bolt

 

As said DO NOT DRIVE IT

I'd take the entire spindle off now and have a place toss a new balljoint in real quick for you. Unless you can save that one by trimming with a dremel.... been there done that. I no longer use a balljoint remover tool. I just use my 18in breaker bar... jack the LCA up fully, put the breaker bar in sideways between the LCA and the Spindle, when you lower the LCA it compresses on the breaker bar and levers the joint loose... sometimes smacking the bar when doing this will finish a stuck one off.