im tired of my car reving while idleing, this is what it does, when i am moving it is fine, when i push in the clutch, it revs from 1 to 2 grand. i have replaced the idle air control valve, the fast idle thermo valve, i have checked for vacuum leaks and i have replaced the gasket on the upper part of the manifold... it still does it,

the honda mechanic said it was the idle air control, the acura mechanic said it was the fast idle valve.... what is it

help please, im going crazy

 

O2 sensor

 

ive had this same problem, and its already been covered, so ill help you out and click on this and that should help!

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1144518

 

what was the fix for your problem hotaccord243?

 

also.. tried adjusting your idle? it might be set too high, and make sure you reset the ECU

 

i thought about that, since i just changed over to manual, i wasnt sure if the auto and the manual had different idles speeds, i know they idle the same speed, i mean how they are adjusted, does the adjust screw need to be different for the manual?

 

Adjust your base idle - with the car running, unplug the idle air control valve and then set your base idle with the idle screw ( I think it is around 500 rpm ). If it stalls when you unplug it , you need to increase the idle speed ( with the valve still unpluged, trial and error) to get this value. If it is too high adjust it down. Turn the car off and reset the ecu ( pull fuse ) the plug the valve back in and see what happens

Cheers

 

yup , that procedure solved my loping idle, because evidently, my idle screw was too far out causing a form of vacuum leak.

 

thanks, ill adjust the idle this afternoon, i know the screw isnt out too far because the honda mechanic adjusted it last year and put some stuff on it so i it wont back out, its like a rubbery plastic, but i will adjust it today

i also think that there could be some air still in my cooling system, when i did the manual conversion i pulled the motor out of the car, i then replaced my water pump, since everything was disconnected, the system filled up with air, so i am trying to get the remaining air out of the system, i have bled it for 2 hours and air is still coming out of the bleeder screw, i hope i dont have a leak, nothing is on the ground though

 

fill the radiator up through the cap, start the car with cap off, let idle till fans cycle twice. by then the tstat would have opened and the system completely burped.

i think you might have solved your own problem...

 

the problem is i am having a hard time getting the tstat to turn the fans on, i think it might be bad! i will keep trying

 

are you overheating?

 

ya know it juststopped doing it so it kind of fixed itself, sorry if that doesnt help very much

 

im not overheating, if anything i am running cooler, the tstat may be stuck open

besides that, i just got all the air out of the cooling system, and it still does it, so i started to umplug sensors, i unpluged the iac and the idle was at 1, but it still reved, so i unpluged the map sensor and about killed the motor, when i unpluged it a second time and pluged it in, the car ran normal with no reving, so i am going to replace the map sensor with a used one, hopefully that is the problem

sound right?

 

IACV.


Just fixed this problem on a 96 not too long ago.

 

when you unplugged the IACV, did the idle drop down once you unplugged it? (idle is supposed to drop to around 500) also when its unplugged, try revving past 3500rpm- its not supposed to. I dont see how your MAP went bad though.. but theyre expensive so try a friends MAP from another honda and see.

 

i have replaced the iacv twice, the idle did drop to 1, i know its high but i think it was set that way for the auto tranny, since it had more moving mass, it may have had to idle higher compared to the manual, i will try to rev it up today,

my map may have went bad, when i had the motor out, i turned it upside down to replace the oil pan gasket, and forgot to take the oil filter off, the oil ran into the intake and all the sensors, i think some got in the map sensor,

i have also found i have a coolant leak, it sounds like it is in the interior, make a gurgling sound and after i park coolant leaks out, bad, only does it every once in a while... any idea

thanks for the help so far

 

just check out all those things you mentioned. get those out the way.

though the Helms manual does say the idle for A/T should be between 700-750 rpm at idle warm with IACV connected. around 500 d/c.

 

yes, the idles are suppose to be set the same, but the automatic has more moving mass therefore, the idle screw must be set differently to compensate for the more mass, since the manual has a lighter moving mass, its idles screw setting should be lower than the auto because it doesnt have to move so much mass

atleast thats how i think it works

my heater core busted which is why there was not pressure in the cooling system, this would cause the fast idle valve to have incorrect pressure, causing the reving, i hope...

 

bingo..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boonacka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">O2 sensor</TD></TR></TABLE>


why would an o2 sensor mess up the idle?

 

my idle is screwed up, with 2 CEL. secondary o2 sendor and IACV-14. thats why i ask about the 02 sensor effecting idle.


Modified by klutch44 at 7:24 PM 2/22/2005

 

AND, my 02 sensor wires are completely cut off!!

 

mine sticks also. It seems to be only in the morning when it is cold though..

 

from my understanding, once your engine is warmed up, the O2 sensor works with the MAP to calculate your fuel table.. or at least choose a plot on the fuel table. So if the O2 sensor is not working properly or is going bad, it would cause a bad idle.