I am now less than a month away from my JRSC and I just wanna make sure I have all my info straight....

<U>1. What is the point of havin an air/fuel ratio gauge??

2. Jackson Racing has a catalytic converter for only 200.00 bucks, get it, or another

3. Do I stick with the JR fuel pump or go elsewhere? $130.00

4. JR liquid intercooler, when should I install this? Should I wait until I up the boost? $600.00

5. JR MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor 150.00, sounds good, get it?

6. JR thermostat only $5.00, get this one or go elsewhere?

7. JR spark plugs? I already have some $100.00 NGK's but the NGK's on their site are only $5.00 each? WTF?

8. Already gettin the hondata manifold gasket 60.00

9. I wanna also heat wrap and heatshied my sri, anything to keep the heat down, what should i do about that?</U>

Just tryin to soak up as much info and oppinion now so I can get it right the first time....
Also: I will be updating dyno graphs and pics for everyone as soon as I get it so you can see the result...

 

The only worthy point in getting the air/fuel gauge is if you're fine tuning your car which you should just get uberdata or leave the tuning to your dyno shop. And I think your 100 dollar NGKs are prolly the wires? Idunno but I other than that congrats on your boostin'

 

thanks, anyone else?

 

1) If youre talking about just hooking up a $50 Autometer guage, its a safety device, not a tuning device. The purpose is to make sure youre not running dangerously lean...so if something begins to leak or an injector fails or something along those lines, you'll be able to tell and back out and shut down immediately.

2) No. Get another.

3) Go elsewhere. Its probably a rebadged Walbro anyway that you can get for $80. GSS317 or 342.

4) I wouldnt bother.

5) Nope, forget all that trash and go Hondata/AEM.

6) Thats fine, its just a rebadged Stant. $5, whatever.

7) NGK BKR7E. $100 plugs? Youre crazy. $1.99 a pop for copper plugs, change them with every oil change.

8) Might as well.

9) I wouldnt bother. Air travels so fast through that pipe that it really doesnt have a chance to heat up. And it certsainly doesnt radiate heat. Use that heatwrap on something else. If you want, wrap your header to keep underhood temps down. That manifold can get heatsoaked in the summer and during back to back runs, so any less heat in the bay is beneficial. But really, you dont need to heat wrap anything.

 

Response:

Q1-You should get an A/F guage to keep an eye out just in case your car starts running rich/lean then you know to get it checked out before something too serious happens.

Q2-I am a fan of most products JR produces, however I feel that their catalytic converter is way overpriced for its specs. I e-mailed JR a month ago because I was in the market for a high-flow cat. The JR high-flow cat may be stainless steel (a must for those who live in cities or areas that get alot of snow because of the amount of salt on the roads) but it will probably need modification(not a big deal) and may not be the size you are looking for because it has a 2" inlet and 3" outlet(if I remember correctly). There are many other options available, mostly depending on what size piping you want to run. You might check out carsound(around $100), magnaflow(around $80), gutting your stock cat, or just using a testpipe. Check eBay for your parts needs because you can always find great prices. A warning though, you may be taking a risk by buying from someone who does not own an eBay store or who sells on eBay for a living.

Q3-The JR fuel pump is made by Walbro, a very trusted name in the business, I don't know of anyone who has trouble with them. But instead of buying from JR you might want to just check out the 255lph fuel pump, which is the same offered by JR, available for our cars either on eBay or another site such as: http://www.innovativetuning.com, http://www.ecutuning.com, or even some of the h-t sponsors. The best price you can get it for is through an eBay seller for about $90 shipped.

Q4-First question, what psi are you planning to run? Second, do you have the dough? If you do, your best option is to invest in a supercharger intercooler by LHT Performance. If you would like to know more check out http://www.LHTPerformance.net or IM CRVRX for his new low price. However, if you do decide to just get a liquid injection system, I would consider spearco because it's a lot cheaper and many people seem to like them. Check out spearco at http://www.racetep.com. And if you really want to cool it down you can use both methods

Q5-I take it you mean a MAP sensor controller by JR. If so, then it depends on whether or not you want to use a stand-alone system such as: AEM, Hondata, or Uberdata. You can buy all the different products for example: JR MAP controller, Vortech FMU, etc. but they will end up costing you just as much as, or more than a standalone unit. I suggest just getting a Hondata s200 w/Boost because it seems to be the most widely used.
Q6-The JR thermostat is only a STANT 160degree thermostat in JR packaging. You could get the same thermostat at AutoZone, but $5 is a good deal. The only downside is the S&H cost. There are other options available such as the Mugen thermostat which opens up at a lower temperature than stock allowing the coolant to flow through your engine sooner reducing coolant temperature($69+shipping from http://www.islandmotorsports.com). Spoon offers a similar product for about $80+shipping if you're interested in this, you can check it out at http://www.modacar.com.

Q7-Many h-t members like the bkr7e's by NGK, they aren't too expensive, and are colder plugs that should work better with your s/c setup depending on the level of boost. If you are running lower boost, I suggest getting something like the NGK Laser Platinums (PFR6G-13).

Q8-The Hondata IM gasket is a nice addition, and it sounds like a good deal. I checked around, and $60 from JR is not too shabby. I'd say go for it.

Q9-I don't know much about heatwrapping, but I don't think its really necessary. But again, I really don't know much about that topic.

I hope this helps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by newgsrdriver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) If youre talking about just hooking up a $50 Autometer guage, its a safety device, not a tuning device. The purpose is to make sure youre not running dangerously lean...so if something begins to leak or an injector fails or something along those lines, you'll be able to tell and back out and shut down immediately.

2) No. Get another.

3) Go elsewhere. Its probably a rebadged Walbro anyway that you can get for $80. GSS317 or 342.

4) I wouldnt bother.

5) Nope, forget all that trash and go Hondata/AEM.

6) Thats fine, its just a rebadged Stant. $5, whatever.

7) NGK BKR7E. $100 plugs? Youre crazy. $1.99 a pop for copper plugs, change them with every oil change.

8) Might as well.

9) I wouldnt bother. Air travels so fast through that pipe that it really doesnt have a chance to heat up. And it certsainly doesnt radiate heat. Use that heatwrap on something else. If you want, wrap your header to keep underhood temps down. That manifold can get heatsoaked in the summer and during back to back runs, so any less heat in the bay is beneficial. But really, you dont need to heat wrap anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, you beat me to it... I spent too much time typing.

 

thanks a whole lot guys, very helpful.... some further questions....
1. How much for hondata S200?
2. I was charged over $100.00 for some NGK irdiums i beleive, im startin' to feel ripped off
3.Fuel pump 255lph? What brand is that?
4.So go to autozone and ask for a stant thermostat, are you sure its the same?

Thanks a lot for the detailed help I Really appreciate it

Also I only plan on running 6psi to start and if I'm satisfied with the performance I wanna turn up the boost, nothin over 10 psi though, I assume ill go as high as 8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97 GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3.Fuel pump 255lph? What brand is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://www.innovativetuning.c...b6e09
$80 fuel pump

1. How much for hondata S200?

http://www.wiredspeed.com/item...=&Bc=
^ if you go hondata dont get the lower thermo. and uou wont need any outher stuff like Jr map. you will just need a set of injectors

 

1) Talk to Wiredspeed

2) Not ripped off, theyre expensive, I just havent seen any reason for paying that much for iridiums. Just a bad purchase thats all.

3) 255 liter per hour. Walbro. I ran the gss317.

4) The ones at Autozone may not be 160deg. They are Stant, but the temp rating may be different, you have to check on that.

After being JRSC'd then turbo, Ill tell you now, start at a higher PSI off the bat. This will save you time in a few months when you'll want it anyway. I always used to recommend starting at stock boost with the charger when I was JRSC'd and working your way up so you get familiar with the belt situation and how everything works, but now I say **** it. Start high...maybe thats the only way to avoid going turbo

 

lol listen to this guy he always has good info on JRSC setups

 

Thanks a lot, I'm gonna keep all that in mind....

1.Are my Ngk Iridiums ok to run?
2.Ok so ill get the gss317 fuel pump, works good right?
3.Definately if I can get a 160degree stant I from autozone I will, what if I can get a higher temp one? Or just stick with the 160 degree?
4.What about injectors?
5.How loud is a JR?
About runnin a high boost from the start, I absolutely would but I wanna start small so I can feel my car gettin faster and faster.... I'm already goin from slow stock to badass....

<U>Dont forget I will be postin PLENTY of pics to show my progress..... </U>

 

1) Depends on the heat range. What kind of iridiums are they?

2) Yep.

3) 160 is fine. I wouldnt even bother changing it unless the stock thermo is busted though, its not worth your time.

4) If youre on a budget, DSM 450's work great and will support up to what you will make most likely.

5) Not loud at all during normal driving. It whines when you hammer it...you can do a search on some videos people have posted. It just sounds like a whine on top of the regular RPM rise.

 

1. I dont know but ill check
2.K
3.Seriously, just keep the stock thermo? Itll work?
4.I wouldnt say im on a budjet... I got some big bucks comin in, and in the back of my mind I wanna actullay race this car in the scca when i get a little older so, might as well get things right now.
5.K

 

its not really noticeable, in higher rpms it kind of sounds like a quiet street bike : )

 

Stock thermostat is totally fine.

 

Thanks for all your help.... Pics Will Follow Soon