SUSPENSION PROBLEM....
i had an alignment done at SEARS a few days ago....i thought it would take care of the jerking in steering wheel at high speeds and during breaking as well as the cranking noise i get from the front suspension during cornering at any speeds...but it HASNT...the cranking noise is not as loud now tho...but the steering wheel still jerks alot. what could the problem be? i thought it was because my alignment was past due. Could it be that my bushings r bad? or cv joint or boot is torn or something? help!
96 ek tokico shocks and springs, thats it for suspension mods.
96 ek tokico shocks and springs, thats it for suspension mods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akteamster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had an alignment done at SEARS a few days ago....i thought it would take care of the jerking in steering wheel at high speeds and during breaking as well as the cranking noise i get from the front suspension during cornering at any speeds...but it HASNT...the cranking noise is not as loud now tho...but the steering wheel still jerks alot. what could the problem be? i thought it was because my alignment was past due. Could it be that my bushings r bad? or cv joint or boot is torn or something? help!
96 ek tokico shocks and springs, thats it for suspension mods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car jerked at high speeds, and i got a cranking noise when i turned....It was my axles
96 ek tokico shocks and springs, thats it for suspension mods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My car jerked at high speeds, and i got a cranking noise when i turned....It was my axles
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your steering pinions</TD></TR></TABLE>
If it's making a cranking noise when you turn check out the pinions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wheel bearing is a maybe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wheel bearing would be more of a constant whirring noise, and in that case I would tell you to check your dust shields behind the rotor. Those get pressed against the rotor every now and then and make a real obnoxious noise.
If it's making a cranking noise when you turn check out the pinions.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wheel bearing is a maybe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Wheel bearing would be more of a constant whirring noise, and in that case I would tell you to check your dust shields behind the rotor. Those get pressed against the rotor every now and then and make a real obnoxious noise.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akteamster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boot is torn or something</TD></TR></TABLE>
ding ding ding. That is VERY likely. Those are the very same symptoms that my car was showing. It seems that "speediboots" don't hold up more than 20,000 miles, opposed to Honda boots holding up to 160,000 (on mine atleast). The speediboot wraps around and bolts together after filling it with grease. That is where they tear it seems. I just bought new axles in order to get to work on time and avoid buying honda boots new and installing them. I may be wrong here, but it sounds VERY similar.
ding ding ding. That is VERY likely. Those are the very same symptoms that my car was showing. It seems that "speediboots" don't hold up more than 20,000 miles, opposed to Honda boots holding up to 160,000 (on mine atleast). The speediboot wraps around and bolts together after filling it with grease. That is where they tear it seems. I just bought new axles in order to get to work on time and avoid buying honda boots new and installing them. I may be wrong here, but it sounds VERY similar.
so i got rid of the clicking noise....it turned out to b my axle just like someone mentioned...but now i still get some vibrating and jerking in the steering wheel at high speeds, 60 plus and at 75 mph its the worst for some reason. it's not as bad as before but it is still there and it bothers me, now what could it be? rack n pinion? no p/s by the way.
any input would be appreciated thanks
any input would be appreciated thanks
nah no bent rims.........im on steelies for the winter.....cant be a bent steelie...impossible....tires are fairly new 60% thread. its driving me crazy now
Have there ever been any E brakes on the tires. I bought a used set of tires that had some small flat spots that I didnt notice at first. They shook pritty bad at some speeds.
i really dont think its my tires....im thinking its my rack n pinion? what else could it be? alignment is good. axles are good. that leaves pinion? or possibly my control arm bushings?
As long as I dont have to take out any more Metal Gears
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,267
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From: Socal, CA, USA
ball joints. There was another thread a while back with a guy that had the same problem. I symptom of bad ball joints is a constant jerking of the steering wheel. Wish i could search for that thread for u, maybe later
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by akteamster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had an alignment done at SEARS a few days ago....i thought it would take care of the jerking in steering wheel at high speeds </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well the first mistake was taking it to sears. They're not even allowed to work on fixed up car. I tried taking my car there and they told me they couldnt do alignment for my car.
maybe the surface of the brake rotor is not even and vibrates when you turn.
Well the first mistake was taking it to sears. They're not even allowed to work on fixed up car. I tried taking my car there and they told me they couldnt do alignment for my car.
maybe the surface of the brake rotor is not even and vibrates when you turn.
believe it or not the Sears i took it to was very helpful. customer service was excellent, very helpful and the mechanic was very helpful too.
and my car is pretty stock except for a moderate drop on tokico springs and tokico shocks, so that is why i figured taking it to sears wouldnt be a problem. i already got an aligment from them and i got the warranty for it also regardless of my car being dropped a bit.
my cv joint was bad so it was replaced.....that got rid of the clicking noise i heard on turns
but not i still have the jerky steering wheel....im about to take it back and tell them the problem isnt completely fixed.
and my car is pretty stock except for a moderate drop on tokico springs and tokico shocks, so that is why i figured taking it to sears wouldnt be a problem. i already got an aligment from them and i got the warranty for it also regardless of my car being dropped a bit.
my cv joint was bad so it was replaced.....that got rid of the clicking noise i heard on turns
but not i still have the jerky steering wheel....im about to take it back and tell them the problem isnt completely fixed.
Did you get print outs of your alignment? Shops usually do that...you should take pics of it and post. Just to make sure your car is really aligned.
As for the jerking in the wheel, it's gotta be a bushing, rod, or ball joint. Rack and pinon is likely too, but they rarely go bad on Hondas.
Raise the car up, secure it on stands. Grab the tire. Shake it side to side...there should be NO play at all...if there is...grab the outer tie rod and shake again to feel the play and where it's coming from. Do this to both sides. Then up and down...if there's play...look at the upper ball joint and see if it's shaking or moving. Again, this shouldn't have ANY play...replace as necessary.
For lower ball joints, raise it so it's a little bit off the ground (2-5 inches) and take a breaker bar and wedge it in between the control arm and hub. Rock it up and down...look for play. Repeat on other side. Again, replace if there's play.
Now what doesn't make sense...why would Sears align your car if you have bad front end parts to begin with?! Ask them and see if they checked ur front end first.
NOTE: If there is play moving it from side to side and up and down, but the tie rod and ball joints not moving, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
Check brakes too while the cars in the air....look for unually pad wear or messed up rotors.
Hope this helps
As for the jerking in the wheel, it's gotta be a bushing, rod, or ball joint. Rack and pinon is likely too, but they rarely go bad on Hondas.
Raise the car up, secure it on stands. Grab the tire. Shake it side to side...there should be NO play at all...if there is...grab the outer tie rod and shake again to feel the play and where it's coming from. Do this to both sides. Then up and down...if there's play...look at the upper ball joint and see if it's shaking or moving. Again, this shouldn't have ANY play...replace as necessary.
For lower ball joints, raise it so it's a little bit off the ground (2-5 inches) and take a breaker bar and wedge it in between the control arm and hub. Rock it up and down...look for play. Repeat on other side. Again, replace if there's play.
Now what doesn't make sense...why would Sears align your car if you have bad front end parts to begin with?! Ask them and see if they checked ur front end first.
NOTE: If there is play moving it from side to side and up and down, but the tie rod and ball joints not moving, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
Check brakes too while the cars in the air....look for unually pad wear or messed up rotors.
Hope this helps
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NOTE: If there is play moving it from side to side and up and down, but the tie rod and ball joints not moving, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ASKED MYSELF THAT TOOO.....PROBABLY BECAUSE I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR AN ALIGNMENT AT 7PM ON A THURSDAY NIGHT AND THEY CLOSE AT 9PM. THE MECHANIC THAT WORKED ON MY CAR JUST HALF ASSED THE JOB TO GET OUT QUICK. I KNOW HE DIDNT CHECK THE FRONT END PROPERLY AND THOROLY. AND DID A SHITTY ALIGNMENT JOB.
THEN A FEW DAYS LATER WHEN I TOOK IT BACK BECAUSE I STILL FELT THE JERKING IN THE STEERING WHEEL, A DIFFERENT GUY LOOKED AT IT, AND HE FOUND THAT MY CV JOINT WAS BAD. SO THAT PROVES THE OTHER LAZY MECHANIC DIDNT DO **** TO MY CAR. HOW COULD U MISS SUCH A PROBLEM? OBVIOUSLY BECAUSE U WERENT LOOKING AT ALL.
I GUESS THE 2ND MECHANIC THAT REPLACED MY CV JOINT MUSTA MISSed something else becuase the problem isnt completely solved yet.
im going to do all the things u recommended...ill keep u posted on the situation
sorry for the caps....completely forgot. dont flame or ban me please!
NOTE: If there is play moving it from side to side and up and down, but the tie rod and ball joints not moving, you may have a bad wheel bearing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ASKED MYSELF THAT TOOO.....PROBABLY BECAUSE I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR AN ALIGNMENT AT 7PM ON A THURSDAY NIGHT AND THEY CLOSE AT 9PM. THE MECHANIC THAT WORKED ON MY CAR JUST HALF ASSED THE JOB TO GET OUT QUICK. I KNOW HE DIDNT CHECK THE FRONT END PROPERLY AND THOROLY. AND DID A SHITTY ALIGNMENT JOB.
THEN A FEW DAYS LATER WHEN I TOOK IT BACK BECAUSE I STILL FELT THE JERKING IN THE STEERING WHEEL, A DIFFERENT GUY LOOKED AT IT, AND HE FOUND THAT MY CV JOINT WAS BAD. SO THAT PROVES THE OTHER LAZY MECHANIC DIDNT DO **** TO MY CAR. HOW COULD U MISS SUCH A PROBLEM? OBVIOUSLY BECAUSE U WERENT LOOKING AT ALL.
I GUESS THE 2ND MECHANIC THAT REPLACED MY CV JOINT MUSTA MISSed something else becuase the problem isnt completely solved yet.
im going to do all the things u recommended...ill keep u posted on the situation
sorry for the caps....completely forgot. dont flame or ban me please!


