allmotor lsvtec?
What do you guys think of an lsvtec with b16b pistons, gsr head, itb's, buddy club spec 3's..that should put me somewhere around 13.2:1.. i want to run on pump gas.... you think it's possible and make around 250whp??
I'd say for the compression and 93 octane to find a great tuner. That's going to be the difference between you blwing the engine up and making it work for you.
For your 250whp I think you're giong to need to get the head worked over, ported, valve job and such. W/ all the worked head and your other additions I think you may be good for somewhere around the 230 mark, perhaps more w/ a really good tune.
Just my .02
For your 250whp I think you're giong to need to get the head worked over, ported, valve job and such. W/ all the worked head and your other additions I think you may be good for somewhere around the 230 mark, perhaps more w/ a really good tune.
Just my .02
I would use P30 oversize pistons instead of the CTR's and mill the head to get the compression. Get a GSR block girdle machined and installed for high rpm's. Exchange the BC3's for some Rocket M24X's to throw you over the 210+ mark and tune the hell out of it from there.
Good luck, keep us updated!
Good luck, keep us updated!
i dont want to shave it i might just resurface the block and head..... im not sure if the valves are going to hit the pistons or not...but i'll find out when i get everything together and when i get the parts
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alright, let's start with head work.
get a head, send it to:
1. Tom at Portflow
2. Brad at RLZ
3. Joe at Alaniz
you can't be cheap here. get the competition ones and tell them what your goal is, to make 250 whp
cams.... rocket m24x, buddy club 4's, or you can wait for the new skunk pro's. hopefully skunk pro 2 n 3 will be out soon
itbs..... jenvey's or twm, no Do It Yourself ****.
Ls block, it will be ALOT, i repeat ALOT easier if you went with a bigger bore instead of the stock 81mm.
I'd go at least 84mm minimum to 85.5mm max. so anywhere between 84-85.5mm
get forged pistons, because it'll BE super damn hot in your motor and you don't have oil squirters, so don't use CAST pistons, well i don't think there is any 84mm cast pistons except for stock b20 pistons.
crank? if your gonna be revving high, which i think you will because with itb's power will be all throughout the powerband i'd go w/ a gsr crank, just my opinion though on the crank
rods... your choice, aftermarket though.
arp rod bolts
aebs head studs
header?.... custom FOR SURE. Hytech, DTR, SMSP
for 250whp i believe your setup should cost around 8,000(easy) + (maybe 9,000-10,000 after tune and install) price reflects that you have NO knowledge on how to build your own motor ie saving some expenses. price includes going w/ a bigger bore and resleeving of the block.
ofcourse don't forget the little expenses, new water pump, oil pump, timing belt, etc. etc.
go with either hondata, aem, or if money is not an issue a motec system
but i've been hearing good things about chrome and neptune about tuning itbs, so you should check up on that.
Tuning is key, I can't stress enough about the importance of tuning.
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:25 PM 2/14/2005
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:26 PM 2/14/2005
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:32 PM 2/14/2005
get a head, send it to:
1. Tom at Portflow
2. Brad at RLZ
3. Joe at Alaniz
you can't be cheap here. get the competition ones and tell them what your goal is, to make 250 whp
cams.... rocket m24x, buddy club 4's, or you can wait for the new skunk pro's. hopefully skunk pro 2 n 3 will be out soon
itbs..... jenvey's or twm, no Do It Yourself ****.
Ls block, it will be ALOT, i repeat ALOT easier if you went with a bigger bore instead of the stock 81mm.
I'd go at least 84mm minimum to 85.5mm max. so anywhere between 84-85.5mm
get forged pistons, because it'll BE super damn hot in your motor and you don't have oil squirters, so don't use CAST pistons, well i don't think there is any 84mm cast pistons except for stock b20 pistons.
crank? if your gonna be revving high, which i think you will because with itb's power will be all throughout the powerband i'd go w/ a gsr crank, just my opinion though on the crank
rods... your choice, aftermarket though.
arp rod bolts
aebs head studs
header?.... custom FOR SURE. Hytech, DTR, SMSP
for 250whp i believe your setup should cost around 8,000(easy) + (maybe 9,000-10,000 after tune and install) price reflects that you have NO knowledge on how to build your own motor ie saving some expenses. price includes going w/ a bigger bore and resleeving of the block.
ofcourse don't forget the little expenses, new water pump, oil pump, timing belt, etc. etc.
go with either hondata, aem, or if money is not an issue a motec system
but i've been hearing good things about chrome and neptune about tuning itbs, so you should check up on that.
Tuning is key, I can't stress enough about the importance of tuning.
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:25 PM 2/14/2005
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:26 PM 2/14/2005
Modified by dragonz04 at 9:32 PM 2/14/2005
wow right to the piont...but sorry i am cheap cause im a poor high school student with a budget the goes up and down..... i was planning on makin my own itb's and i was thinking about gettin regrinds of buddy club spec 3's or 4's....im thinking of sending it out to portflow if i have some extra money but for now i'll probobly bring it to some local shop.. im planning on using the stock ls crank and maybe gsr rods or some after market ls, im gettin the ctr pistons in over size.. for header im gettin the on from kteller, and im goin to be using uberdata for tunning. im gettin head studs and rod bolts
okay now if you are cheap, and want a pretty reliable set-up that you can beat on and have fun. then i think you should tell me what your budget is, and what you already have, so we(honda-tech) can help you out.
i believe 250whp is VERY hard to achieve, BUT not impossible
but 190whp and 150+lbs of torque will be A LOT of fun to drive still
i believe 250whp is VERY hard to achieve, BUT not impossible
but 190whp and 150+lbs of torque will be A LOT of fun to drive still
you can't use gsr rods on ls crank,
ls crank with ls rods
gsr crank w/ gsr rods. unless that's
ls crank with aftermarket ls rods
gsr crank w/ aftermarket gsr rods
ls crank with ls rods
gsr crank w/ gsr rods. unless that's
ls crank with aftermarket ls rods
gsr crank w/ aftermarket gsr rods
oh i didn't know that..... as of right now i have the ls bottom and with a gsr head and head studs... am gettin ctr oversized pistons from sean...i baicly want a daily driver that i could beat on from time to time and still have something that will put me in the low 13's high 12's and i'll be happy..
lol, 250whp is not needed if you just want some 12's.
I think you'll be extremely happy with just 200 whp
just to let your know itbs aren't even needed to hit 200whp
just with the right selection of parts.
since you have the ls bottom end, the only thing i would do is since your tearing the block down to put the ctr's in i'd put arp rod bolts on the stock ls rods, maybe shot peen the rods, but that's it.
for the head, if you send it to portflow that would help a lot.
buddy club 3 + is a good cam choice. remember don't forget the +
I think you'll be extremely happy with just 200 whp
just to let your know itbs aren't even needed to hit 200whp
just with the right selection of parts.
since you have the ls bottom end, the only thing i would do is since your tearing the block down to put the ctr's in i'd put arp rod bolts on the stock ls rods, maybe shot peen the rods, but that's it.
for the head, if you send it to portflow that would help a lot.
buddy club 3 + is a good cam choice. remember don't forget the +
i was thinking about gettin the rods shot peened and gettin everything balanced.... im gettin itb's sooner or later so might as well be now...im still thinkin about the cams tho
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofienD 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow right to the piont...but sorry i am cheap cause im a poor high school student with a budget the goes up and down..... i was planning on makin my own itb's and i was thinking about gettin regrinds of buddy club spec 3's or 4's....im thinking of sending it out to portflow if i have some extra money but for now i'll probobly bring it to some local shop.. im planning on using the stock ls crank and maybe gsr rods or some after market ls, im gettin the ctr pistons in over size.. for header im gettin the on from kteller, and im goin to be using uberdata for tunning. im gettin head studs and rod bolts</TD></TR></TABLE> Im also on a high school budget, except im not building a B-series
. You can make +200whp and still have it be reliable and fun to drive. A Gsr head with buddy club 3+, Jun3's, Toda, or skunk stage 2 will work fine with your set-up and an upgraded valvetrain. You should atleast get a valve job on your head to help increase airflow. As far as the block p30's will give you good compression for the cams and keep it streetable while still being able to use pump gas...A good flowing header will help you acheive your goals eaiser, although they might not be cheap they will make power,also tunning with hondata will only benifit you more...As far as the diy itb's , i dont know if they make more power than your average aftermarket inatke manifold. I havent seen to many dynosheets comparing them to intake manifolds. hope this helps and good luck...
. You can make +200whp and still have it be reliable and fun to drive. A Gsr head with buddy club 3+, Jun3's, Toda, or skunk stage 2 will work fine with your set-up and an upgraded valvetrain. You should atleast get a valve job on your head to help increase airflow. As far as the block p30's will give you good compression for the cams and keep it streetable while still being able to use pump gas...A good flowing header will help you acheive your goals eaiser, although they might not be cheap they will make power,also tunning with hondata will only benifit you more...As far as the diy itb's , i dont know if they make more power than your average aftermarket inatke manifold. I havent seen to many dynosheets comparing them to intake manifolds. hope this helps and good luck...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbofienD 04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about gettin the rods shot peened and gettin everything balanced.... im gettin itb's sooner or later so might as well be now...im still thinkin about the cams tho</TD></TR></TABLE> Your compression with ctr pistons, ls block and gsr head will be 13.2...so to keep it streetable on 93octane will be a challenge...
yea i knew what the compression was goin to be.... im goin to be using uberdata to tune so it shouldn't be that bad... and i think i'll get my freind to do a port and polish(he's good at at and shows gains on the dyno).....as far as a header goes im thinking about gettin the An r header from kteller or gettin a custom one made by a shop
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Used2beAb16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will take more for 250whp. 200whp is a more reasonable goal for that setup.(with some good tuning)</TD></TR></TABLE>
****, I just need 10 more HP to hit the NA 200 mark, I'm only running 12.2-12.3:1 compression.. nothing really fancy except for a set of web bumpsticks.
****, I just need 10 more HP to hit the NA 200 mark, I'm only running 12.2-12.3:1 compression.. nothing really fancy except for a set of web bumpsticks.
ATTENTION: JDMlyfestyle
I RECOMMENDED P30 pistons not the CTR's he currently wants. He shouldnt have to pull the timing on with them as long as he's tuned. I suggested milling the head because he's going to need even more compression that P30's in a LS will allow to get in the 210+'s. Any cam thats going to take him there will need that kind of compression hands down. The CTR pistons will only serve to disrupt the flow and equal combustion in the cylinder, thus resulting in a loss of HP. The P30 is lighter and flatter which will allow smoother and more equal flow and combustion in the cylinder which equals more HP.
So again I say:
P30 Oversize Pistons
Mill the head to yield a 12+ C/R
Rocket M24X's
I RECOMMENDED P30 pistons not the CTR's he currently wants. He shouldnt have to pull the timing on with them as long as he's tuned. I suggested milling the head because he's going to need even more compression that P30's in a LS will allow to get in the 210+'s. Any cam thats going to take him there will need that kind of compression hands down. The CTR pistons will only serve to disrupt the flow and equal combustion in the cylinder, thus resulting in a loss of HP. The P30 is lighter and flatter which will allow smoother and more equal flow and combustion in the cylinder which equals more HP.
So again I say:
P30 Oversize Pistons
Mill the head to yield a 12+ C/R
Rocket M24X's


