How much will stock LS B18B rods take with ARP Rod bolts?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C-speed Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats a pretty vague question...Boost? Rpms? What?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would guess to say rpms! As for rods, I believe they are good for 300whp, anything above that should be stronger.
Im building a NA LS Vtec. Its going to have a revlimiter or no more than 8800. Im using the skunk2 stage 1 cams. Im looking to make around 190 so WHP. Sparkracing.com sells forged I beam and H beam rods for like $220 with 9mm ARP rod bolts. What should I do. I dont want to buy the forged rods if I dont have to. But then again I dont want to have to worry if the stock will hold.
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Is yours a daily driver? Im using type R pistons with a GSR head should be around 11:1. I just dont want to snap a rod and have complete engine failure.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine have see 8.5k every pass at 11.5:1 CR. Now I hope they are ready for more.
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What about your rod bolts? Stock or ARP or other?
</TD></TR></TABLE>What about your rod bolts? Stock or ARP or other?
Anyone know how much the Skunk2 stage 1s make power to? I dont think there that much more agressive than the CTR cams. There was a dyno of a LS vtec setup similar to mine and didnt make power after 7800. So I dont think ill be revving over 8400 or so. How reliable would the stock rods be then ?(with arp bolts) Thanks J
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mine have see 8.5k every pass at 11.5:1 CR. Now I hope they are ready for more.
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Do you have any 1/4 mile times?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Do you have any 1/4 mile times?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by envision2teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just fine, thats about stock redline right</TD></TR></TABLE>
stock redline on a ls block is like 6700, but i have taken my old motor to 8-8.5 many times a week. also i forgot to shift one time and i don't have a rev limitor it went for real to 9700 or maybe alittle higher, it sounded so bad and i was so scared but nothing happened. however i do not expect anyone to repeat this stupid almost deadly mistake.
oh yeah all stock bottom end
stock redline on a ls block is like 6700, but i have taken my old motor to 8-8.5 many times a week. also i forgot to shift one time and i don't have a rev limitor it went for real to 9700 or maybe alittle higher, it sounded so bad and i was so scared but nothing happened. however i do not expect anyone to repeat this stupid almost deadly mistake.
oh yeah all stock bottom end
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSPECEX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
stock redline on a ls block is like 6700, but i have taken my old motor to 8-8.5 many times a week. also i forgot to shift one time and i don't have a rev limitor it went for real to 9700 or maybe alittle higher, it sounded so bad and i was so scared but nothing happened. however i do not expect anyone to repeat this stupid almost deadly mistake.
oh yeah all stock bottom end </TD></TR></TABLE>
Fuel cutoff is 7200.
stock redline on a ls block is like 6700, but i have taken my old motor to 8-8.5 many times a week. also i forgot to shift one time and i don't have a rev limitor it went for real to 9700 or maybe alittle higher, it sounded so bad and i was so scared but nothing happened. however i do not expect anyone to repeat this stupid almost deadly mistake.
oh yeah all stock bottom end </TD></TR></TABLE>
Fuel cutoff is 7200.
No one will be able to give you a definitive answer on this. Only "i used LS rods and took it to xxx rpm and i was making xxx hp."
I would PERSONALLY not go past 240-250whp NA or otherwise with them in, and this is assuming you HAVE arp rod bolts.
I would PERSONALLY not go past 240-250whp NA or otherwise with them in, and this is assuming you HAVE arp rod bolts.
people tend to forget that honda's are over-engineered..... i take my ls rods with arp rod bolts to 8500-9k daily....
Alright im going to order the ARP bolts and have them installed then. Im looking to make between 190-210 WHP on my LSVTEC. So I should be good and no more than 9k rpms.
Thanks alot Jay
Thanks alot Jay
my ls rods with arp rod bolts held 10000 rpm all motor 200whp and aprox 370whp at 8000rpm with 200 shot, ended up breaking a rod with the nitrous though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by j87w »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were these in daily drivers and how long did they last like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes I remember reading an article a long time ago, Im talking 97 - 98, about how you can use LS rods in a D-series motor b/c they are stronger than the D-series rods and are recommended for turbo applications that do not exceed 250whp.
I know a few ppl that tried this and never had a problem. The Rods are not he weak link in the LS/B20 Bottom end, its the rod bolts!
yes I remember reading an article a long time ago, Im talking 97 - 98, about how you can use LS rods in a D-series motor b/c they are stronger than the D-series rods and are recommended for turbo applications that do not exceed 250whp.
I know a few ppl that tried this and never had a problem. The Rods are not he weak link in the LS/B20 Bottom end, its the rod bolts!



