Did anyone have issues when putting on their camber kit where the ball joint on the part that sticks out on the upper control arm hitting the inner fender part where the body comes to a point and welded together? When the UCA goes up and down? I need help bad!!! i dont wanna pay to get it installed, and im not gonna go out like a bitch! LOL

 

Are you using a sprint type of camber kit? THe one that comes with small pieces and not the whole arm? My homie put one on his rex and the tires bowed out and the the car itself was hitting the camber kit. Is that what you are talking about?

 

im just talkin about changing the anchors on the control arm. not the whole control arm.

 

If you are hitting the actual frame then you need to adjust camber more negative.

 

then that would defeat the purpose of using a camber kit because i want to adjust my camber more positive. rite?

 

You have to notch out that little "seam" in the fender that it hits.

I used a 4" makita grinder, and cut little notches about 3/4" to 1" apart and then hammered/bent them back and forth until they broke off.

I cut out about a 4" section of it, and had enough clearance to get my camber back within spec.

Sorry I dont have any pictures to explain what I'm talking about.. I'll try to get some the next time I go out to work on the car.

 

thank you, someone had the same problem as me, notching it would be a good *** idea. imma try it, thanks man, i would appreciate it if u could get some pics so i could see wut ur talkin about. thanks again, email me please

 

Well i had the same problem with my Progress kit. It was the anchor type as u stated. Well, on the progress kit there are 2 settings. One settings helps correct the camber a lot and the other just helps a little bit. I chose the setting that corrects it a little bit b/c i didnt want to hack the spot u speak of. Just make sure your toe is not WAY off and dont worry about some of the negative camber. Toe is whats gonna eat your tires up.

 

By putting the camber kit on and setting it all the way back with the UCA pushed back, will it still be more positive and better than the stock anchors?

 

And also the Ingalls instruction guide says that i may need to hammer in some of the innder fender where the anchor bolts to the UCA. I did that and got some more clearance in there, but when I tightened the bolts that go inside the engine bay, it was very hard to move the upper control arm back and forth with the other bolts loose. anyone?

 

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