I just did a b16 with pr3 crx 90 dx and im comfused cause im i can only rev to 7200. And i tought the Pr3 revs to 8K.
Im not throwing codes and engine runs good, but i cant rev past 7200?
I already checked the bar codes and its a Pr3 Manual ECU, i opened the Inside and looked where the MT is suposed to be and its not there, the only thing there is are some blurry marked letters kind of say A/MT, like if they marked with a sharpie,
do i have an AT ECu with a MT ECU casing? help me out, i need to know so i can return it to where i got it from.

 

Yes, it does sound like you have an automatic ecu. I had the same problem and never replaced it

 

on a dead stop neutral it revs to 6.5k and when the car is moving the rev limit is 7200-7000, i dont want to chip it i want the stock rev limit.

 

Are you hitting Vtec at 5200 or around there? If not, maybe your car is not warmed up enough yet. Mine does that.

 

its warmed alright i hit vtec at 5200 but wont got past 7200,
if its a real Pr3 MT ECU it should have the little white marked "MT" letters on the board right, this one doesn'nt it has some sharpie looking marks,

 

that is what mine looks like
my friends:

 

Yes, you do have a auto ECU. Also, check your ignition timing it may be retarded, alot. I had a auto ecu. It would rev to 7800 rpm.

 

how can it be the timing when it runs perfectly fine starts good and idels fine, i'll check timing how do i do that loose the bolt and tilt the distributor front or back?
If its an AT ECU on a MT box because the codes yield a MT ECU.
but on the board there is not AT or MT, all there is a scribles made with a sharpie or a permanet marker. do you think someone maybe switched the board on top. to some other one.

 

Just borrow a friends known MT PR3 ecu... and try it out.
Your ecu markings sound sketchy...

 

You can convert an Auto to Manual with a jumper I think ... check it out.

 

If convert it to manual who could do that.?

 

Here is a link: http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...anual

Compair that pic to your ecu and tell us what position the resistor is in.

I have never got a straight answer as to what modification this does..
I would guess it raises the redline?
>From what I gathered you do this and then have it chipped..
Anyone know anymore about this?

 

here is the numbers from the bar codes.

37820-pr3-003 thats on the bar code outside and the green plug inside the ECU.

I think where the MT letters are suposed to be says 6A/MT writen by hand with some maker or kind of looks like a stamp

 

i have a spoon chip in my PR3 4500vtec 8500red

 

where did you buy it and how did you put it on, and how safe is it to red line it to 8500. does the car have to be running at speed in order to hit 8k?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">where did you buy it and how did you put it on, and how safe is it to red line it to 8500. does the car have to be running at speed in order to hit 8k?</TD></TR></TABLE>


You won't make any more power at 8500 RPM. That's just for a hotter cam setup. I've got the same chip off of ebay, and I use it with my ITR cams and valve springs. Those cams will make power up that high, the stock ones won't. Usually though, I like my VTEC point to be at around 5000. You can get the chips readily off of EBAY.

 

I will be putting some type R cams soon, Where did you get your Chip installed?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxh22project &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will be putting some type R cams soon, Where did you get your Chip installed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I took the ECU and the instructions over to my local computer repair shop. They charged me 8 bucks to remove the old chip, and put the new one in. They offered to put a low profile socket in there (so that I could just switch between the two chips any time I wanted) but I only had a 10 on me. lol. I think I'll get a quick release socket put in there soon though. Pretty cool stuff.

 

ok cool did you get your chip from phaze 2 on ebay?

 

I think I got mine from this guy... but it was a different chip.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1

It really doesn't matter who you go through. They're all the same.

 

ok I took it for a spin today and hit vtec around 5500 rpms and cut off at like 7500, i cant really drive it right because its a project and it has expired tags ya know, i notices while driving slow at constant 3000 rpms it kind of sounds like the timing is a bit misadjusted anyone know or have a write up on how to do timing?

 

get it from Mike Vong SimplePC@hotmail.com on ebay. has Minesvx, spoon, mugen n1 and stock jdm maps.

dont get a 8800..9k or not redline chip. you will miss shift and blow your **** up, bend valves etc.

Vash is right i stop making power at 7500rpm with the spoon chip. 8500rpm when i upgrade and actually make power the program will be used better, but by then i will be obd1 and uberdata managed. ALSO like vash i would like my vtec at 5k. from a roll and 4500rpm it FEELS like a turd. but imho it's nice to launch in vtec from stand still at 4500 feels smoother.

the reason for this is you dont FEEL the vtec Xover since your in it already in an early stage, you can only hear it engage. if you set it at 6k you would feel the pull and save gas on highway.

 

ok i dont know but I think my tachometer is gone bad and i only used my car like 3 times since swap was completed, after i went for another cruise when i turned on the car, the tachometer would mark 0 at idel not like before where it would mark 300-500 rpms and when i red line it marks 8K did my computer just adjusted it self or something? or is my tach messed up.