Rotor Screws... Yes or No?
So it always seems that these darn things fight the whole way when removing even though they are covered in anti-seize. Regardless, the heat seems to lock them up solid. On race cars only, do most people just not put them back on? my understanding is they only help to keep the rotor on the hub when changing pads, etc...
What if you just brought a set of screws and when do a brake job put them in and when done remove them?
Any opinions?
What if you just brought a set of screws and when do a brake job put them in and when done remove them?
Any opinions?
I haven't ever used them on the CRX. Brakes on the CRX are a big enough pain in my *** that rotor screws are just one more thing to worry about.
you should always use them because when you install the rotor the hub and the rotor should be clean of and dirt in order for the rotor to sit flat on the hub, if you dont use the screws when the wheel is pulled off dirt could fall in between the hub and the rotor and then when the wheel is torqued back on the rotor will wobble and give the feeling of a warped rotor
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6vtec1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should always use them because when you install the rotor the hub and the rotor should be clean of and dirt in order for the rotor to sit flat on the hub, if you dont use the screws when the wheel is pulled off dirt could fall in between the hub and the rotor and then when the wheel is torqued back on the rotor will wobble and give the feeling of a warped rotor</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was told something similar by a Honda mechanic who also posts on H-T. The screws help maintain the rotor hubcentric.
I was told something similar by a Honda mechanic who also posts on H-T. The screws help maintain the rotor hubcentric.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECAcuraGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So it always seems that these darn things fight the whole way when removing even though they are covered in anti-seize. Regardless, the heat seems to lock them up solid. On race cars only, do most people just not put them back on? my understanding is they only help to keep the rotor on the hub when changing pads, etc...
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Probably fine to use them only during changes BUT, are you maybe just over tightening them for their use? They certainly don't need much torque on them when you put them back in as the rim (most designs at least it would seem) should keep it from ever backing completely out ... at least if yours are like mine. The upside to them that I see is that if you don't have the pad clips (if the GSR uses them), then it keeps a flopping rotor from knocking a pad out before buttoning everything up (which will lead to a bent and useless pad) or down as the case may be.
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Probably fine to use them only during changes BUT, are you maybe just over tightening them for their use? They certainly don't need much torque on them when you put them back in as the rim (most designs at least it would seem) should keep it from ever backing completely out ... at least if yours are like mine. The upside to them that I see is that if you don't have the pad clips (if the GSR uses them), then it keeps a flopping rotor from knocking a pad out before buttoning everything up (which will lead to a bent and useless pad) or down as the case may be.
I think there was a 3 or 4 page post about this a while back. The final answer: some say yes and some say no, both have good arguments. So, do whatever you want.
I would prefer to use them, but my problems with them have been numerous:
A bitch to get out
Back out when torqued at torque spec with no anti-seize
A bitch to get out when over-torqued so the ******* will stay in
Back out when overtorqued with anti-seize
This is under HPDE conditions. I give up on those things. They don't want to stay in my cars and I don't want them either, so they can go to hell.
A bitch to get out
Back out when torqued at torque spec with no anti-seize
A bitch to get out when over-torqued so the ******* will stay in
Back out when overtorqued with anti-seize
This is under HPDE conditions. I give up on those things. They don't want to stay in my cars and I don't want them either, so they can go to hell.
I used to do this and even with anti-seize one of those buggers got stuck in one of my front hubs and I had to force it out which stripped the threads in the hub. Now I'm trying the 'only use them when swapping rotors until you get everythinge else bolted back down' plan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Impact driver makes quick work of them. I anti-seize them and replace them periodically.... I leave them in always
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pyromaster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I used to do this and even with anti-seize one of those buggers got stuck in one of my front hubs </TD></TR></TABLE>
Use a bigger hammer on your impact driver. 4lb sledge, if not bigger.
I used to do this and even with anti-seize one of those buggers got stuck in one of my front hubs </TD></TR></TABLE>
Use a bigger hammer on your impact driver. 4lb sledge, if not bigger.
it wasn't that. The messed up one would turn and came halfway out and then got stuck and that's where I had to force it. Ball peen + Husky Impact = eough force
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use a bigger hammer on your impact driver. 4lb sledge, if not bigger.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Use a bigger hammer on your impact driver. 4lb sledge, if not bigger.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I still have one screw that I need to back out with the easy out because the head broke off while changing a tire. After reading this thread, I think I'll just leave it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R you serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">saves weight also
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It's rotating, unsprung weight too. It's golden weight savings!
Just kidding. I hadn't seen a rotor screw topic yet, it was interesting to me to see how the responses ended up.
I think a nice big YMMV would cap it off well.
-Chris
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's rotating, unsprung weight too. It's golden weight savings!
Just kidding. I hadn't seen a rotor screw topic yet, it was interesting to me to see how the responses ended up.
I think a nice big YMMV would cap it off well.
-Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1type »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sould use it all the time . your rotor will shake when you brake</TD></TR></TABLE>
umm how did you figure that? Your lugs are what holds it on, these little tiny screws just hold it in place when the wheel is off.
umm how did you figure that? Your lugs are what holds it on, these little tiny screws just hold it in place when the wheel is off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
umm how did you figure that? Your lugs are what holds it on, these little tiny screws just hold it in place when the wheel is off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Even w/ the screws in, the rotor still shifts around under the wheels.
umm how did you figure that? Your lugs are what holds it on, these little tiny screws just hold it in place when the wheel is off. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Even w/ the screws in, the rotor still shifts around under the wheels.


