b16a into 91hf converted to obd1 PROBLEMS!!!!
ok i swaped in a b16a into my friends 91hf i used an obd0 to obd1 conversion harness, a chipped p28 ecu with the p30 maps on it, i installed ctr cams, a new obd1 dizzy and a 4 wire o2 sensor. i adjuted the timing with the service conector jumped and got it on the red line on the crank pulley. it starts up fine first try everytime, but when we try to drive it it sputters BADLY it is basically undriveable. no CEL no codes. im stuck everything is in order and it should work fine. did i fubar the cam install, would this cause the symptoms i described? the ecu, dizzy, firing order and harness are all fine they have been tested.PLEASE HELP!!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rextec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> no CEL no codes. </TD></TR></TABLE>
how did you screw up the cam install exactly? This is the kind of info needed to solve these types of problems
Double check your wiring. I had problems with my dizzy wiring after converting to obd1 and had to run all new wire into the car to the ecu. Also have you measured the dizzy for resistance?
Double check your wiring. I had problems with my dizzy wiring after converting to obd1 and had to run all new wire into the car to the ecu. Also have you measured the dizzy for resistance?
i dont know if you read it right but he is asking if he mest up the cam install, he is not saying that he did, also he said the dizzy was fine, the dizzy is brand new and the ecu isnt kicking any codes so help us out guys, this is my car he is talking about, and we are stumped
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i dunno , sound like timing cause i timed my car with the non adjustable timing light the other day to the line that was glowing and it sputtered on it so i timed it to the 2nd of the 3 lined mark. and that worked out pretty well for me.
i checked cam timing and it was fine, everything lined up. i timed it to the middle red mark on the crank pulley which is the stock setting. the ecu snt the problem, i switched another ecu in there and had the same results.
when putting on the timing belt, are the cam gear arrows pointing up? and the 2 cam gear lines on the side even w/ each other in inside cover? also, did you use the white mark for lining up the crank w/ the gears?
if the distributor wires are swapped (depends on the jumper you use) the car won't even start.
does the engine light come on when you start the car and then turn off?
valve adjustment?
if the distributor wires are swapped (depends on the jumper you use) the car won't even start.
does the engine light come on when you start the car and then turn off?
valve adjustment?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tom_l »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if the distributor wires are swapped (depends on the jumper you use) the car won't even start.
does the engine light come on when you start the car and then turn off?
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From what he told me, the CEL goes solid when jumped, but is not on when NOT jumped.
That is normal operation for NO CELs.
-PHiZ
I agree that it might be the dizzy wires on the harness. There are two strategies for making OBD0-OBD1 x-over harnesses.
if the distributor wires are swapped (depends on the jumper you use) the car won't even start.
does the engine light come on when you start the car and then turn off?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
From what he told me, the CEL goes solid when jumped, but is not on when NOT jumped.
That is normal operation for NO CELs.
-PHiZ
I agree that it might be the dizzy wires on the harness. There are two strategies for making OBD0-OBD1 x-over harnesses.
well the only sputting i've seen at 2000 rpm + was due to a bad distributor (bad igniter unit)
I haven't flipped cams before so i'm not sure what the symtoms would be, i would think idle would be screwed as well. (would valves impact if only one side was flipped?)
Guessing you're running OBD0 injectors because you didn't mention installing OBD1's so you're still using the injector resistor box correct?
Good valve adjustment?
Which jumper harness did you get, and just checking but you know how to check codes on OBD1 ecu's right?
I haven't flipped cams before so i'm not sure what the symtoms would be, i would think idle would be screwed as well. (would valves impact if only one side was flipped?)
Guessing you're running OBD0 injectors because you didn't mention installing OBD1's so you're still using the injector resistor box correct?
Good valve adjustment?
Which jumper harness did you get, and just checking but you know how to check codes on OBD1 ecu's right?
is your timing belt skipping a tooth on the cam gear? That same problem happened to me a while ago. Check the teeth on the belt, look for wear, missing teeth ect.. Is is an adjustable cam gear? If so make sure that you tightened up all the points. Good luck man
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do u have spark</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope your kidding... He said it starts up
do u have spark</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hope your kidding... He said it starts up
ok guys. i did a good valve adjustment when i installed the cams everything is in spec there. the arrows on the gears point up with the indents facing each other, and yes i used the white mark on the crank gear to get everything lined up. now its spitting out code 9 even if i switch the orange and white wires at the dizzy (it used to only spit out a code if i had them crossed). im starting to think its the dizzy for sure. im gonna go out and buy a voltage tester and check it out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TABIAS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I hope your kidding... He said it starts up
</TD></TR></TABLE>
hehe I wasn't paying attention.
umm no check engine lights if its running like **** might be the dizzy or timing only two things can cause it
if your wiring wasn't correct it will give a check engine light...
keep looking dude u will find it same thing happened to me when I first swapped my car lol
I hope your kidding... He said it starts up
</TD></TR></TABLE>hehe I wasn't paying attention.
umm no check engine lights if its running like **** might be the dizzy or timing only two things can cause it
if your wiring wasn't correct it will give a check engine light...
keep looking dude u will find it same thing happened to me when I first swapped my car lol
code 9 will cause it to sputter like a dog on crack
it will probably rev to 3.5 only also
code 9 is probably means your wiring is wrong if the dizzy checks up to be fine.
I had code 9 it was my wiring I think its ckp sensor correct me if I am wrong
it will probably rev to 3.5 only also
code 9 is probably means your wiring is wrong if the dizzy checks up to be fine.
I had code 9 it was my wiring I think its ckp sensor correct me if I am wrong
ok i tested all of the sensors in the dizzy as per. the factory manual all of them checked in at 358-360 ohm's so the dizzy is fine. i am officaily stumped!!! im gonna check the conversion harness again. this is the exact one i have http://www.jhpusa.com/catalog/...96caa
my dizzy wiring is:
obd0 harness------dist.
thin white------white
orange------peach
blue/yel------blue/yel
blue/grn------blue/grn
white/blue------white/blue
orange/blue------peach/blue
thick white------yel/grn
my dizzy wiring is:
obd0 harness------dist.
thin white------white
orange------peach
blue/yel------blue/yel
blue/grn------blue/grn
white/blue------white/blue
orange/blue------peach/blue
thick white------yel/grn
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