Alright, tonight I want to replace a couple of boots I was forced to rip when replacing a knuckle a couple of days ago. I already tried using the hammer, pickle fork, and gravity tricks, but for some reason non of those worked (the hammer trick worked last May!). I had to use the Pitman arm, which I fear can crush/bow the ball joint bolt, leaving me stranded tonight.

So, I want to give this a try:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webap...Id=-1

Autozone doesn't seem to carry it (goingto check in person), neither does Sears or Ace Hardware. Harbor Freight is on the other side of Houston. Any idea where else I can find it? I'm going to hit up O'Reilly's and NAPA. There isn't an Advance or Carquest around here...

 

did u try jacking the lca, and sticking a 1/2" drive ratchet btwn the lca and knuckle?

 

Oh, forgot to mention...

When replacing my knuckle the lower ball joint didn't really give me that much trouble (usedthe jack trick), it was the UBJ and tie rod ball joint that did. When I used the Pitman arm they came off quick, but using that tool was my last resort after doing everything else, because I've read about the horror stories of the bolt crushing under pressure.

All I'm doing tonight is replace the UBJ and tie rod ball joint boots that I ripped when replacing the knuckle. Last night I tried using the hammer to get the tie rod joint loose and it didn't work (it worked well last May when we had warmer weather).

I'm sure it would be safe to use the Pitman tool, since the UBJ and TR only have one hole going thru the bolt (stronger), but it is an assumption+risk that I cannot afford to take, since my stock UCA is sitting my my apartment about 100+ miles away from home...

FYI, Pitman tool:

 

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webap...Id=-1 - I've used that, its a piece of **** and doesnt work.

There is an $8 "pitman arm puller" from autozone that is also a piece of **** and will mushroom your balljoint end and destory it. I dont know if leaving the nut on the joint makes any difference or not.

Facom makes the good tool. Get it.

 

i've been using a pulley puller recently which has worked great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

There is an $8 "pitman arm puller" from autozone that is also a piece of **** and will mushroom your balljoint end and destory it. I dont know if leaving the nut on the joint makes any difference or not..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo, must leave the nut hanging off the treads a few mm, it keeps it central on the balljoint end, and keeps it from mushrooming.. Best 8$ tool ever...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bingo, must leave the nut hanging off the treads a few mm,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good call.

I just paid OPM $140 to put in new balljoints. I suck at t3h mechanix chit. At least the new owner will have new ones

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bingo, must leave the nut hanging off the treads a few mm, it keeps it central on the balljoint end, and keeps it from mushrooming.. Best 8$ tool ever...</TD></TR></TABLE>

bloody brilliant, that should also keep it tie rods from "jumping" out when they break loose.

 

Yeah I just borrowed the same $8 pitman tool at autozone. I will definitely keep the nut on there to prevent hte mushrooming. Last time I didnt even use a nut and it didnt mushroom I think the lower ball joint is the only one that can mushroom because it has 2 holes drilled in it for the cotter pins, unlike the other 2, which only have one hole...

 

i hate ball joint work, i usually just go to town with a hammer and some PB blaster. i've found it paramount to have a tap and die set around though because those BJ threads/nuts tend to get a little FUBAR'd after my banging on them with a hammer for half an hour. i wish there was a better way but i haven't had good luck with pittman pullers either.

 

Well I just used the pitman and it sounded like a gun shot going off. About to put the new tie rod in. I think I iwll be ok using the pitman on my UCA, since it will have 2 big nuts on there to prevent it from crushing. I still have to extract the stripped screw head on my camber UCA...

 

Here are my 2 cents. I have tool similar to the pitman but what I do is once I've turn it enough to put pressure on it, I take my 5 lbs hammer and hit whatever the piece the balljoint is on and off she goes...

 

Good idea!

I got the UBJ off safely. I went ahead and took the shock out completely, and removed the UCA and put it on the bench.

Next thing I'm going to do is replace the torn boot. Whats the best way to re pack the ball joint with grease? SHould I remove all the old grease? The boot has only been torn for about 60hrs, so it hasn't been contaminated yet. Ok to use a teaspoon?

Also, I am going to extract a stripped M8x1.25 allen head screw from my UCA (Ingalls), using the correct size extractor and grade drill bit. Any tips? I got a lot of help from the folks at the hardware store, just wanted to see if you guys have any extra tips...

 

Is it a screw or a bolt? The sears stripped bolt removers are pretty pimpy. I'd give their stripped screw removers a try if thats whats on there.

 

I use the LCA and jack trick. Works like a charm.

 

Actually, it's a false alarm, turns out that I could take it out after pulling the UCA from the car entirely. Weird.

Anyways, packing the ball joint now...

 

Alright, all done and car drives like it did before I took everything apart

I think I may have puut a little too much grease in the boot. There is a little bit of balloon type pressure in the ball joint boot now (after putting it back in the car), but it isn't a lot. Should I be concerned?