So, I have my b16a head w/ titanium springs and retainers, swirled and polished valves, p&p, gasket matched intake manifold, str cam gears, str fuel rail, and sir2 cams. I was seriously thinking about selling this setup after I found a b18c5 for $4,000 in my hometown for sale. I decided that I was going to stick w/ my franky though. I know that rod ratio has been discussed on ls/vtec's a bunch. Read all the links that I could find.

If I'm doing my ls/vtec this spring, and I only have this head I need more. I was wondering about changing my rod ratio, as this seems to be the biggest problem with the frankenstein w/ not being able to rev past what stock for the ls should've been. Well you can, just not recommended.

If I change my pistons and rods to ones for a GSR or ITR, am I going to be able to do so with a ls block? And if so, does this change my rod ratio allowing me to rev higher more safely?

I was just going to buy some eagle rods, some sort of low C/R piston for a possible turbo app in the future. Then have the shop micropolish and balance my crankshaft. In order to do so, can the shop install the pistons and rods w/out taking out the whole engine? I know if you take of the head, which they have to do for the head swap, can you get the pistons and rods installed by taking off the oil pan and removing the crank for micropolishing.

I know this seems like a lot, at least for me. I've only had the teg for 5 months now. I was so used to toyota engines....4afe, 7afe, 4gze, 4age, JZZ's, etc...

Any help on that set up would be great. I'm getting a type-r oil and water pump. New timing belt. I need a distributor from a vtec head. And by doing this swap, am I giong to be changing from OBD1 to a OBD2? I also need a new vtec ECU, but if I buy a hondata 200 for a turbo, do I still need the new vtec ECU?

I have searched the ls/vtec swap many times. I used to have a link in my favs that has mysteriously disappeared. It was from this site. I can't find it now though.

Just so no one feels left out, feel free to flame away if you want. Just get it out of the way and then help out if you can.

Just kidding.

 

Wow, no one can help.

 

Any help.

 

Come on guys, I have less than a month to try and put this together.

Can I change the crank and internals of the LS block with GSR/ITR internals? I'm pretty sure I can. I want to build the block on this conversion for max reliability. by getting a GSR/ITR crank and forged pistons/rods, does this improve the durability? Also, what pistons and rods would be the best for this ocnversion?

 

I'll keep this brief because there are a billion posts already.A well built ls/vtec will be just as reliable as a well built gsr.Bad or lack of tuning is what kills nearly all the engines regardless of rod ratio.Don't get hung up on rod ratios on a street honda.Keep searching and reading active posts.
Glenn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'll keep this brief because there are a billion posts already.A well built ls/vtec will be just as reliable as a well built gsr.Bad or lack of tuning is what kills nearly all the engines regardless of rod ratio.Don't get hung up on rod ratios on a street honda.Keep searching and reading active posts.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>This is true on so many levels. Like NJIN I'm not going to go into why.
But if rod ratio concerns you this much, either get a gs-r crank, rods and pistons. You can not put gsr pistons and rods to an ls crank. Your piston would be out of the hole. You may be able to use gs-r rods with a raised pin piston. However I'm not sure who if anyone makes a shelf piston for that application. I'm pretty sure eagle specialties offers a rod for an ls that is .100 longer and srp has a piston for that setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkTeg94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can I change the crank and internals of the LS block with GSR/ITR internals?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, you can, but rod/stroke ratio really is NOT a problem with lsvtecs. the ratio on an ls is only slightly worse than on a gsr. not something i concern myself with.

 

like said previously, man. don't worry about rod:stroke ratio, here. it's not much worse than GS-R, and only dictates a rebuild slightly nearer in the future than normal, but it's a honda, so enjoy. it'll be quite a while before you need to rebuild! just get some ARP rod bolts in there, and maybe a girdle for the crankshaft mains. those are the major bottom-end upgrades honda did, other than better oil pump. i have similar plans in the future for my LS bottom, unless, of course, i can find a nice used GS-R bottom . can't beat Honda's own engineering.

 

That's what I was thinking too. Buy a GSR bottom and then be all set. I remember reading a post on here that placed a pretty high importance on rr. That's why I was thinking it was a big deal. If it isn't, then I might just get a good set of forged rods/pistons and rod bolts. Get some ARP head studs, and be all set with the bottom end.

I heard the ITR girdle fits the LS bottom with no mods. Is this right? All I would have to do to install this is remove the pan and bolt it in right? Then this would eliminate any crank walk right?

 

The itr/gsr girdle only fits the ls WITH mods.The gsr has it stock.
Glenn

 

http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom4.html

 

R/S ratio is just one difference between the ls and gsr block. One reason why RR is more important for a high reving LS is the increased sidewall pressures combined with lack of oil squirters will cause the pistons to get hotter than normal. Now if your running forged pistons this is not a big issue, but for the factory ones, if your tuning is off, you will greatly shorten the lifespan of your motor.

 

All of the 96+ Integra oil pumps have the same part #.

Since you are going with a type-r water pump then you must use a matching timing belt... you cannot use the LS timing belt. The type-r water pumps are no better than the LS water pumps. The only difference is that they have a different # of teeth which is why you need to use a different timing belt.

For an ECU I would recommend a P28 since its OBD1 and can accept Hondata and also doesnt look for a knock sensor.

As far as engine management I would definitely recommend getting a Hondata S200 system. I am going to be doing that on my LS/VTEC build.

I see that you are going with aftermarket rods and pistons. I am going that same route with my build as well. If I were you I would definitely have the block taken out and have it honed.

As far as how long a LS/VTEC motor will last its hard to say. The two most important factors are: the quality of the build and how hard you drive it. Dont cut corners otherwise you will pay for it in the long run.