Im getting HOOKEd up
I'm getting timing belt, water pump, crankshaft seal, valve and lifter adjustment, tensioner, distributor cap, and intake manifold cleaning all done for 180!!!!! yea i got the hookup. Im going to do a compression test again to see how much im losing and if its more than 20% im swapping pistons to 11.5/1. This tuneup is the beginning of my cars modification and im excited. I have money now and im going all motor nitrous in my bb6. Just wanted to share my info with you guys
That 180, is that jsut parts or is that lobor +parts? Either way its not too bad as long as its done by someone who knows what they are doing. Also, you can't jsut swap pistons and expect reliability. You might want to look into new rods, pins, pistons, and rings. You will have to hone the block too. High compression is not necessarily good for N20 either, might even look into sleeving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedMachine »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm getting timing belt, water pump, crankshaft seal, valve and lifter adjustment, tensioner, distributor cap, and intake manifold cleaning all done for 180!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Make sure to double check that quote before the guy starts working on it. The parts alone for all of the above come to at least $180, and you're looking at 6-8 hours of labor, more if he's never done the job on an H22 before (which from the quote, sounds like a definite possibility).
And while you're at it, look into upgrading to a manual tensioner from the H23, it's a lot more reliable.
Make sure to double check that quote before the guy starts working on it. The parts alone for all of the above come to at least $180, and you're looking at 6-8 hours of labor, more if he's never done the job on an H22 before (which from the quote, sounds like a definite possibility).
And while you're at it, look into upgrading to a manual tensioner from the H23, it's a lot more reliable.
yeah 180 sounds a little cheap, the autotension by itself is 100, waterpump is 70, crank seal is around 10-15, timing belt is 70 bux, balance shaft belt is another 20, distributor cap is another 20.
that is way too cheap, look into do the h23 manual tensioner conversion
that is way too cheap, look into do the h23 manual tensioner conversion
sorry for late answer. no guys that is just labor. parts are all separate. its a friend
of my uncles and hes doing it at his house. im going to help him but since i dont
know how to do these things its a good deal in my opinion. oh and NITROUS isnt
forced induction, hence it would still be all motor. oh and come someone post me
a link for the h23 manual tensioner and how to do it please? i am planning or
getting everythin redone when i swap in the pistons and i am getting rods. let me
ask your opinion though, what compression would you suggest if 11.5 is too high
of my uncles and hes doing it at his house. im going to help him but since i dont
know how to do these things its a good deal in my opinion. oh and NITROUS isnt
forced induction, hence it would still be all motor. oh and come someone post me
a link for the h23 manual tensioner and how to do it please? i am planning or
getting everythin redone when i swap in the pistons and i am getting rods. let me
ask your opinion though, what compression would you suggest if 11.5 is too high
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpeedMachine »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NITROUS isnt forced induction, hence it would still be all motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You are forcing more oxygen into the engine then it will normally take in naturally. Nitrous is not all motor.
You are forcing more oxygen into the engine then it will normally take in naturally. Nitrous is not all motor.
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