Hey Guys,

I've searched under Integra archived content but was in a hurry and didn't find what I needed.

Can someone tell me the correct order to bleed the brakes on an 00' Teg?

Thanks,

George

 

Start farthest from the MC and work your way towards it...

I always do:

Rear right, rear left, front right, front left

Haven't had a problem yet on any cars doing it this way

-- Kevin

 

Thanks bud.

 

Ok, I just tried bleeding the brakes again and there is still a tremendous amount of fade in the pedal.

Someone explain bleeding brakes to me please.

Do you leave the mc cap on when you bleed?

What I was doing was bleeding from the right rear to left rear to right front to left front. My buddy was pressing in the pedal 5 times then holding and I would undo the banjo until some fluid dripped out. I didn't hear any air come out. Then I would tighten up the banjo and move onto the next one. We left the mc cap off.

Someone help.

Thanks.

 

you need a see-thru tube, about 2-3 feet long, that fits on the end of the nipple. pump the brakes until hard then hold. Watch the fluid in the tube and make sure no bubbles are in it. If not, then tigthen and move to the next. I always bleed the brake i did first, but I have never heard of bleeding the rear or front first. But I do bleed the rear first and the front last.

 

Make sure you always have enough fluid in the MC. That is crucial, else it will suck air back in. And that of course defeats the purpose.

I always have a friend pump 4-5 times, hold down brake, loosen bleeder screw, retighten, and repeat that procedure 3 times (more if I think there was a lot of air in the line). I of course do this for each brake.

So keep an eye on the fluid, and make sure you are retightening each bleeder screw. What work had you done in the first place (replace MC?, or just put on new brakes and had to push the piston back?)

-- Kevin

 

Thanks for all your help guys, we bled each side 5 times and now it stops perfectly

 

Awesome man, congrats it all worked out!

-- Kevin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and I would undo the banjo until some fluid dripped out...</TD></TR></TABLE>I hope you didn't really mean the banjo fitting of the brake hose. You're supposed to bleed thru the bleeder valve.

 

and you're supposed to submerge the other end of your tube in brake fluid, to keep air from going back up through the tube.

And also the correct order, as defined by the Helms manual, is a criss-cross pattern:

right rear, left front, right front, left rear.

 

Maybe(?) beginning in '98 with the new-type ABS system the bleeding order is different. But bleeding the wrong order should only mean you gotta go around a couple more times before all the air comes out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all your help guys, we bled each side 5 times and now it stops perfectly </TD></TR></TABLE>So now it's OK?

 

well I had always heard as a general rule that you should start with the farthest wheel from the MC and end with the closest, which on LHD cars would be RR, LR, RF, LF... so I was surprised to see it shown as a criss-cross order in the Helms.

Does the 98+ Helms say RR, LR, RF, LF as the order?

 

Well helms for my civic has the criss cross pattern as well. Since this is a teg w/abs I didn't know if it was the same. I have an online teg helms but when I went to print out the page it wasn't clear. So I took someone's advice here and went RR, LR, RF, LF.

The brakes kick *** now.

 

It's always been diagonal since late '60s when everyone started having dual-diagonal brakes. Bleed one circuit (RR, LF), then the other.

Starting with the farthest was a good guess if you didn't have specific instructions, but you still go diagonally.

Even back then there were exceptions. I had a '74 BMW where each circuit did BOTH fronts & one rear. Each front caliper had 2 hoses & 3 bleed screws.

 

i know for my buddies 00 ITR, his helms says LF,RF,RR,LR

 

do it farthest away from the MC and work towards it. everyone i know who races does it in this order (including myself).

i've never heard of submerging the other end of the tube in brake fluid. as long as the pedal is depressed while you tighten up the bleeder valve, i don't think air will back up into the system, although it couldn't hurt anything to have it submerged.

 

I always do RR,LF,LR,RF with the engine on, and e brake down

I get the best results this way, and i've tried every way imagineable

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always do RR,LF,LR,RF with the engine on, and e brake down

I get the best results this way, and i've tried every way imagineable</TD></TR></TABLE>

bleeding brakes w/ engine running, I've never heard of doing that before. Does the engine running push the brake fluid out so you can bleed them yourself w/o needing anybody to pump the pedal?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know for my buddies 00 ITR, his helms says LF,RF,RR,LR</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet the order changed in 98 when they went from the 3-channel to the 4-channel ABS system, which used the fluid in the main brake reservoir instead of having its own reservoir.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

bleeding brakes w/ engine running, I've never heard of doing that before. Does the engine running push the brake fluid out so you can bleed them yourself w/o needing anybody to pump the pedal?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

it doesn't aid in one person bleeding
I just tried it once and it worked wonderfully, so I always do it now
I guess the brake booster some some ****

 

So you still had somebody pump the pedal while the engine was running? How does that work, since the pedal never gets stiff if the engine is running?

 

My Helm says left front, right front, right rear, left rear. Right out of the Helm, done it this way too many times to count.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My Helm says left front, right front, right rear, left rear. Right out of the Helm, done it this way too many times to count. </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn what year car is that?? That follows no logical order at all, not criss-cross, not farthest to closest to MC, not closest to farthest or anything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
damn what year car is that??</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My Helm says left front, right front, right rear, left rear. Right out of the Helm, done it this way too many times to count. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know for my buddies 00 ITR, his helms says LF,RF,RR,LR</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So you still had somebody pump the pedal while the engine was running? How does that work, since the pedal never gets stiff if the engine is running?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't have to build pressure, just push fluid. I find that you can push a lot more fluid with the engine on. Just try it. I bet you will like it

 

Helm book for my '98 Accord says LF-RF-RR-LR.

I've said this before... The order is determined based on which line is more likely to push bubbles into which other line. Before ABS most cars were pretty much the same, the only difference was which diagonal circuit was primary vs. secondary.

With ABS it's still determined by which circuit pushes bubbles into which other one. But now that depends on the plumbing details around the ABS modulator. That's got so many different configurations with different cars, different systems, even different locations for the modulator to be mounted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't have to build pressure, just push fluid. I find that you can push a lot more fluid with the engine on. Just try it. I bet you will like it</TD></TR></TABLE>

So with the engine running, do you still have a helper pump the pedal, or does he/she just need to press and hold the pedal down? Is that enough to push the fluid out if the engine is running? Isn't the system under higher pressure when the engine is running that could cause the brake fluid to spray out?