hey, im new with the H series motors, and i had a question. from the research i have done so far. i found out that the h22 is a vtec motor (i knew that) and i thought the H23 was as well, but i guess it isnt. and i also thought that the h23 is only from japan. but i guess they come stock in USA. but are the US h23's all DOHC or are they SOHC? or half half? my major question is how does the displacment from a h22 get bumped up to 2.3? is it the bore? or stroke? or rod length? or sumthin else? and my other question is minor. if putting a h22 head on h23 block, do u need 2 tap anything like the B20/LS or do they work without that? i dont need an explanation on that question, just a simple yes or no. and i found a h23 prelude at the junk yard... i was exited, should i be or is that just normal?

 

stroke.

All H23's are DOHC.

Read the FAQ for H23/H22 hybrids, I'll reiterate it's a dumb idea in general unless you really know what you're doing.

 

ok, so i got another question, if its the stroke that makes the h22 a h23, cant u just get a h23 crankshaft and throw it into a regular h22 and then have a 2.3 displacment? and not have 2 bother with all the BS? just like throwing a ls crank into a b18c block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KamiKazeEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, so i got another question, if its the stroke that makes the h22 a h23, cant u just get a h23 crankshaft and throw it into a regular h22 and then have a 2.3 displacment? and not have 2 bother with all the BS? just like throwing a ls crank into a b18c block? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes make sure you use the H23 crank and rods then select your piston to your desired compression

 

Don't rev it past 7K rpms and you will be fine.

Read the FAQ. It has a lot of useful info.

From a guy who went from an H23 to an H22, the bottomend torque difference is noticeable.

The H23 is a good idea if you are looking for a better performing motor to get around town (without revving it too high). If you are planning to track it, I think the H22 is the better of the two. It's more reliable. It was designed with that in mind.

 

hmm, i c. but ofcoarse if its sleeved then rpms wont be a factor, u could go higher but still if ur valve train is good...

 

yeah, but valvetrain upgrades for the H are kinda limited. you can't build a Hseries to handle 10,000rpm. if you are nuts for RPM, then stick with a B16 w/ Skunk2 or whatever springs/retainers. Crower and JUN makes a very good setup for Hseries valvetrains, but keep it below 8500.

another deal with the H23VTEC frankenstein motor is that the H23 crank was NEVER ment for serious RPM usage. it's fairly poorly balanced from the factory, when compared to a H22 crank, or another crank that I will mention in a minute. I'm guessing you are going for a built all-motor aplication for your EG. kudos for even attempting the project. a sleeved block is great, and handles cylinder pressures well beyond what Honda originally built the motor for, but they do not mean you can rev the engine to 12,000 rpm without conciquence. a very well balanced bottom end is what gives the motor the ability to rev high (when the valvetrain can keep up with the bottom end. floating a valve is never a good thing).

If you want tons of high-RPM revving, alot of horsepower, and can sacrafice some torque, then consider the "not-so-Fseries,-but-ever-so-Hseries" F20B. it's basically a destroked H22 with Prelude TypeS cams and pistons. The crank is one of the best available in the Hseries. Extremely well balanced, and pretty strong. it has nothing in common with the Fseries motors that are in Accords, or the F20C that is in the S2000. It will accept all the parts, cams, pistons, headers, intakes, manifolds, engine mounts, whatever from the H22.

I should say that I do like the motor, but I will not be using it. I prefer boost over high compression, but it's my choice. plus the F20B can be found for around $3700-4500, a little more than what I will pay for my boosted H22 swap. I imagine you will be building this motor, so I imagine you can have the H23 crank balanced and blueprinted, which will help VERY significantly as far as the RPM department. I just wanted to throw in the option of the F20B, if you wanted something wildly different, without making an ungodly, hybrid, frankenstein, top secret, area51 motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KamiKazeEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, i c. but ofcoarse if its sleeved then rpms wont be a factor,.</TD></TR></TABLE>

are you on crack? Sleeving your block has no effect on the ability to rev your crank at higher rpms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

are you on crack? Sleeving your block has no effect on the ability to rev your crank at higher rpms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wait so if i pour iron on my block to sleeve it i could rev to 40k? ******* awesome.

really, sleeving your block only lets you handle more pressure and not have FRM so you can run forged pistons. It doesn't let you go nuts with your revs.

 

well, if u rev high, then the crank spins faster and the pistons go faster, and the cylander wears out faster. if u got sleeves, then u dont have to worry about the bottom end handling the high rpms. after that, its up 2 the head if it can handle it or not.... so the F20B i hear is from an Accord Type R from EUROPE ONLY? never offered in the US, and what about japan? and another thing, the F20B, is it SOHC VTEC? or what?

 

um...thats not why you sleeve your block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KamiKazeEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, if u rev high, then the crank spins faster and the pistons go faster, and the cylander wears out faster. if u got sleeves, then u dont have to worry about the bottom end handling the high rpms.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wrong

If that was the case then you would see a lot more sleeved
h23 vtec's around.

They can handle more pressure as stated before.

 

But if its a forced injection car then higher rpms = more boost = more pressure = better have sleeves that will take the pressure?

 

Hmm. im new to any type of honda motors. But i do know that in like my LS1, or most chevy motors, all the blocks are sleeved from the factory. this is to prevent a cracked block in the case of a rod/piston failure. in which case you can resleeve the block and go on about your merry way...

is this not how honda motors are?

 

well, unlike most motors, honda motors are aluminium and we have weak sleeves. other motors are steel and dont need sleeves, the block is its sleeve. if honda make theyre motors stock with full steel sleeves, then there would be alot of turboed hondas, ill tell u that. and any other honda would almost never blow or break down. haha