B16 Hatch: stock 9.5's survive during a track day?
Whats up guys.
Now, lets not consider that im stomping on the brakes like a drunk monkey, and consider the stock rotors/calipers, carbotechs, and maybe ducting?
Do you guys think they will work OK? If not ill just throw on some gsr brakes, but i would like to work with what i have.
Thanks
Now, lets not consider that im stomping on the brakes like a drunk monkey, and consider the stock rotors/calipers, carbotechs, and maybe ducting?
Do you guys think they will work OK? If not ill just throw on some gsr brakes, but i would like to work with what i have.
Thanks
Throw on the bigger brakes if possible. How long are the sessions? Good track pads, fluid, and ducting will probably work, just (as always) keep a mental note on how your brakes are feeling.
Or maybe just let the monkey sober up a bit before going out there.
Or maybe just let the monkey sober up a bit before going out there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd at least give it a try with the stock brakes and good pads before spending any more money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is my idea as well, but i was hoping someone had experience, so i dont go spending 100 bucks on pads and fluid and ducting, just to ditch them after one day.
Thanks though.
this is my idea as well, but i was hoping someone had experience, so i dont go spending 100 bucks on pads and fluid and ducting, just to ditch them after one day.
Thanks though.
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i had a similar setup with my ls swapped hatch. i always had issue with a crappy pedal at the track and finally realized it was my drums that were busted. i threw on some integra rears and was good to go. if your drums are functioning properly you should focus strictly on the fronts as the rears really don't do much of anything. give it a shot with some good pads and fluid, you should be alright your first few events. by that point you'll know what you need.
I currently have a B16 in my CRX, with stock brakes all around. Cobalt pads, synthetic fluid, and a bigger MC have made it a great car to drive, and it has no problem lasting a complete session. Bigger brakes WILL help but make sure you upgrade everything else along with it. Booster, MC, Prop Valve, and use good fluid.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PSUCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I currently have a B16 in my CRX, with stock brakes all around. Cobalt pads, synthetic fluid, and a bigger MC have made it a great car to drive, and it has no problem lasting a complete session. Bigger brakes WILL help but make sure you upgrade everything else along with it. Booster, MC, Prop Valve, and use good fluid.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Except for the Booster/MC. You don't need to upgrade these unless you feel that it requires too much Leg Effort to push the pedal. Booser/MC don't ever help stopping or heat dissipation all they do is decrease pedal effort.
A good upgrade for the CRX is the 91 Civic EX (four door) MC because it bolts right up to your existing booster and fits right up to your existing brake lines and it's 15/16's. I can't forsee ANY needing more then that. I have a 7/8ths with 11" rotors and teg calipers and I just rest my foot on the pedal to stop the car.
Except for the Booster/MC. You don't need to upgrade these unless you feel that it requires too much Leg Effort to push the pedal. Booser/MC don't ever help stopping or heat dissipation all they do is decrease pedal effort.A good upgrade for the CRX is the 91 Civic EX (four door) MC because it bolts right up to your existing booster and fits right up to your existing brake lines and it's 15/16's. I can't forsee ANY needing more then that. I have a 7/8ths with 11" rotors and teg calipers and I just rest my foot on the pedal to stop the car.
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