Inner or Outer Tie Rods
Hey Guys,
I'd like to replace both inner and outer tie rods but I don't have enough money to do it all. What's more important to replace, inner or outer? Or is it pointless to replace one without the other? Mine aren't worn out, but I'd like to replace them.
Cheapest I found was at Advance Auto Parts
Inner $49 ea
Outer 48 ea
Thanks.
I'd like to replace both inner and outer tie rods but I don't have enough money to do it all. What's more important to replace, inner or outer? Or is it pointless to replace one without the other? Mine aren't worn out, but I'd like to replace them.
Cheapest I found was at Advance Auto Parts
Inner $49 ea
Outer 48 ea
Thanks.
Well because my steering is a little loose, there is a little play in the wheel, a little shake too. I just have a feeling that they are going to go this year.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just have a feeling that they are going to go this year.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
Before you just start throwing parts at it, have you checked out the suspension? A loose feeling can also come from worn balljoints.
Your vibration could be coming from your tires/wheels. Are they worn? Have they ever been rebalanced? Bent wheel? Sure it's not the brakes?
Just throwing parts at a car gets real expensive real quick.
lol
Before you just start throwing parts at it, have you checked out the suspension? A loose feeling can also come from worn balljoints.
Your vibration could be coming from your tires/wheels. Are they worn? Have they ever been rebalanced? Bent wheel? Sure it's not the brakes?
Just throwing parts at a car gets real expensive real quick.
hey i have a similiar problem to yours and if you are going to change it...and it doesn't vibrate no more on your steering wheel...let me know so i can change my tie rod too...thanks....bump this thread because i need the info too....
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I get $28 for each outer, and $40 for each inner (with new lock washer) at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
Don't replace them unless you know they are damaged. Also if your short on $$, you should be aware that you will need an alignment after you remove either of those parts. It is deffinently better to do both at once since you need an alignment afterwards...
Don't replace them unless you know they are damaged. Also if your short on $$, you should be aware that you will need an alignment after you remove either of those parts. It is deffinently better to do both at once since you need an alignment afterwards...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I get $28 for each outer, and $40 for each inner (with new lock washer) at http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
Don't replace them unless you know they are damaged. Also if your short on $$, you should be aware that you will need an alignment after you remove either of those parts. It is deffinently better to do both at once since you need an alignment afterwards...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dang dude u got rip off! here in sacto...i found some aftermarket outer tie rod for only $39.00 for both...
Don't replace them unless you know they are damaged. Also if your short on $$, you should be aware that you will need an alignment after you remove either of those parts. It is deffinently better to do both at once since you need an alignment afterwards...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dang dude u got rip off! here in sacto...i found some aftermarket outer tie rod for only $39.00 for both...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93_cxEG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dang dude u got rip off! here in sacto...i found some aftermarket outer tie rod for only $39.00 for both...</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, I didn't purchase these, so I didn't get ripped off.
Second, my quote is for brand new OEM parts directly from honda, so of course they will me more expensive. The quality, however, is unquestionable.
dang dude u got rip off! here in sacto...i found some aftermarket outer tie rod for only $39.00 for both...</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, I didn't purchase these, so I didn't get ripped off.
Second, my quote is for brand new OEM parts directly from honda, so of course they will me more expensive. The quality, however, is unquestionable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Before you just start throwing parts at it, have you checked out the suspension? A loose feeling can also come from worn balljoints.
Your vibration could be coming from your tires/wheels. Are they worn? Have they ever been rebalanced? Bent wheel? Sure it's not the brakes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess I didn't put enough details in my original post.
Suspension is 1 month old: H&R sports on KYB AGX's. Front and rear camber kit by omnipower. New balanced Toyo Proxes 4 tires on new wheels. Rear lca bushings from energy suspension. Alignment done 1 month ago.
Alright I'll explain it all: I'm changing the passenger axle this weekend because it's bad. While I'm there with the axle and lower ball joint out, I'm gonna put on the front teg brakes on that I have. I'd like to replace the tie rod ends because I'm not sure if they've ever been replaced. Also, front itr lca's will go on with ES bushings and an itr front sway with ES bushings.
I'd like to complete the package by getting new tie rods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyMagic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">outer tie rod ends are 18.99 each at autozone </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm gonna call autozone now
Before you just start throwing parts at it, have you checked out the suspension? A loose feeling can also come from worn balljoints.
Your vibration could be coming from your tires/wheels. Are they worn? Have they ever been rebalanced? Bent wheel? Sure it's not the brakes?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess I didn't put enough details in my original post.
Suspension is 1 month old: H&R sports on KYB AGX's. Front and rear camber kit by omnipower. New balanced Toyo Proxes 4 tires on new wheels. Rear lca bushings from energy suspension. Alignment done 1 month ago.
Alright I'll explain it all: I'm changing the passenger axle this weekend because it's bad. While I'm there with the axle and lower ball joint out, I'm gonna put on the front teg brakes on that I have. I'd like to replace the tie rod ends because I'm not sure if they've ever been replaced. Also, front itr lca's will go on with ES bushings and an itr front sway with ES bushings.
I'd like to complete the package by getting new tie rods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MonkeyMagic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">outer tie rod ends are 18.99 each at autozone </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm gonna call autozone now
Ok, I just looked my ES bushing kit and it actually comes with tie rod boots. I'll just replace those and everything should work fine.
I was wondering this too. My car always pulls left even after the alignment. The weird thing is when I'm going down the highway and I turn the wheel a little to the right and let go it quickly goes past center to the left, but if I turn it a little left it just slowly returns to center. Could a tie rod be the culrit?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try cross rotating the front tires (Swap the front left and right tires).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
But that'll mess up the tread pattern.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
But that'll mess up the tread pattern.
As stated before...don't replace it if it's not necessary...BUT if that part(inner or outer tie rods) are bad then replace them!!!
Inners and Outers do alot with suspension and could fawk up your alignment even if you've got it done a month ago. Doing an alignment with bad tie rods is just like throughing money out the door.
When you're driving down the road and hit pot holes or manholes, the joints will jolt and mess up your alingment.
Usually you'll be able to tell if they're bad by shaking the tire left and right...there should be NO play or very very very little play. Note...after doing this test and you DO find some play...have someone hold the inner or outer tie rod to see if they FEEL the joint move. Thus pinpointing the exact probably.
Also, if the cars in the air, it wouldn't hurt to check out both the lower and upper balljoints either
Just security reasons.
Get an alignment done after replacing any of these too...
Inners and Outers do alot with suspension and could fawk up your alignment even if you've got it done a month ago. Doing an alignment with bad tie rods is just like throughing money out the door.
When you're driving down the road and hit pot holes or manholes, the joints will jolt and mess up your alingment.Usually you'll be able to tell if they're bad by shaking the tire left and right...there should be NO play or very very very little play. Note...after doing this test and you DO find some play...have someone hold the inner or outer tie rod to see if they FEEL the joint move. Thus pinpointing the exact probably.
Also, if the cars in the air, it wouldn't hurt to check out both the lower and upper balljoints either
Just security reasons.Get an alignment done after replacing any of these too...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0p_sh0tta »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try cross rotating the front tires (Swap the front left and right tires).
There may also be bent suspension components.</TD></TR></TABLE>
With certain Radial Tires you could do this...sometimes its a tire pull...thus swaping or cross rotating the fronts would make it go away...again CERTAIN tires do this and not all
There may also be bent suspension components.</TD></TR></TABLE>
With certain Radial Tires you could do this...sometimes its a tire pull...thus swaping or cross rotating the fronts would make it go away...again CERTAIN tires do this and not all
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSX TO CX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was wondering this too. My car always pulls left even after the alignment. The weird thing is when I'm going down the highway and I turn the wheel a little to the right and let go it quickly goes past center to the left, but if I turn it a little left it just slowly returns to center. Could a tie rod be the culrit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Keep in mind guys that if you're taking your car into a shop to get an alignment done...ask them to check out the front end FIRST before doing anything...pay the extra cash cuz you'd rather do that then spend 69 bucks or whatever it is for an alignment for nothing.
Some places check out the front end first before they even align your vehicle but again ASK to make sure they do...also some places dont charge anything to check things like that out.
Keep in mind guys that if you're taking your car into a shop to get an alignment done...ask them to check out the front end FIRST before doing anything...pay the extra cash cuz you'd rather do that then spend 69 bucks or whatever it is for an alignment for nothing.
Some places check out the front end first before they even align your vehicle but again ASK to make sure they do...also some places dont charge anything to check things like that out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, I just looked my ES bushing kit and it actually comes with tie rod boots. I'll just replace those and everything should work fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the boots just that...a boot...the rubber boot that goes over the joint...it's not actually a NEW tie rod is it? The boots mainly to keep the joints greased...but on our hondas, they have a sealed unit....meaning we cannont grease out joints anyways...unless the aftermarket one comes with a fitting to grease them with.
the boots just that...a boot...the rubber boot that goes over the joint...it's not actually a NEW tie rod is it? The boots mainly to keep the joints greased...but on our hondas, they have a sealed unit....meaning we cannont grease out joints anyways...unless the aftermarket one comes with a fitting to grease them with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicboisi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the boots just that...a boot...the rubber boot that goes over the joint...it's not actually a NEW tie rod is it? The boots mainly to keep the joints greased...but on our hondas, they have a sealed unit....meaning we cannont grease out joints anyways...unless the aftermarket one comes with a fitting to grease them with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're right, what I have is just the boot. So that's doing **** all. Tomorrow, I'll jack the car up and see if there is any play in the steering rack and try and pinpoint if that's the problem. thanks for all your help civicboisi.
the boots just that...a boot...the rubber boot that goes over the joint...it's not actually a NEW tie rod is it? The boots mainly to keep the joints greased...but on our hondas, they have a sealed unit....meaning we cannont grease out joints anyways...unless the aftermarket one comes with a fitting to grease them with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You're right, what I have is just the boot. So that's doing **** all. Tomorrow, I'll jack the car up and see if there is any play in the steering rack and try and pinpoint if that's the problem. thanks for all your help civicboisi.
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Being as we are on this subject - where should I go to have my front suspension inspected. I took it to one place - got charged 20 bucks and was told the rac & pinion needs to be replaced along with the front passenger side axel. Maybe I can jack the car up - take a photo and see what you all think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by w-a-o »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being as we are on this subject - where should I go to have my front suspension inspected. I took it to one place - got charged 20 bucks and was told the rac & pinion needs to be replaced along with the front passenger side axel. Maybe I can jack the car up - take a photo and see what you all think. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Take some pics
Take some pics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by w-a-o »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Being as we are on this subject - where should I go to have my front suspension inspected. I took it to one place - got charged 20 bucks and was told the rac & pinion needs to be replaced along with the front passenger side axel. Maybe I can jack the car up - take a photo and see what you all think. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Take it to another place and have them check it out...rack and pinons rarely go bad on Honda's....but pics would be good too
Take it to another place and have them check it out...rack and pinons rarely go bad on Honda's....but pics would be good too
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