I was, and still am running TODA B cams, 12.5 comp, on a b20/vtec.

this is the second time that my timing belt breaks. I ran a TODA belt first, then a GREDDY belt. they both snapped under 20k miles and shredded off aprox. 20-25 teeth.

I'm rather pissed since I've been dropping all this money on valves recently. I'm looking for a more reliable setup. I heard that CTR cams are the best OEM replacement.

my question is : will I have any problems running CTR cams on a 12.5 comp b20 vtec? are CTR cams made to see that high comp? will CTR cams work with my TODA springs? what will the dyno yield in comparisson with my current TODA B's? I've accepted the HP/TQ drop already for the smart trade of reliability. but does any one know if it will be significant? dyno plots would be nice

thanks ITR members!

 

The increased compression of your motor will only give you more power with CTRs as opposed to running them in the same motor with lower compression. Sounds like you're making a smart decision.

 

ok. so the comp doesn't affect these cams in some foreign negative matter that I wouldn't be aware of, correct? also, should I change the springs to some ITR or CTR ones or are the TODA springs ok in there? anyone ever try to push these CTR cams with a comp higher than 12? please post!

 

Sounds like some sort of timing belt tension error. I have heard many stories that toda Bs with stock belts lasting way more then that with not a problem.

And I have also heard a **** load of stories about toda Bs breaking belts of all kinds...

who was installing the belts in your car, are they experienced enough?

 

It seems that your problem is something other than the cams themselves... did you contact TODA Racing USA? What did they say?

If you are going to a milder cam for realiability have you thought of the TODA A's? I know you saud you were finished with TODA, but they are fantastic quality IMO. I have been running the Spec A cams and my car is still OEM reliable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like some sort of timing belt tension error. I have heard many stories that toda Bs with stock belts lasting way more then that with not a problem.

And I have also heard a **** load of stories about toda Bs breaking belts of all kinds...

who was installing the belts in your car, are they experienced enough?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I put over 10k miles on my Toda B's with stock valvetrain, Toda gears and stock timing belt. Didn't even change it when the cams were put in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I put over 10k miles on my Toda B's with stock valvetrain, Toda gears and stock timing belt. Didn't even change it when the cams were put in </TD></TR></TABLE>

But then I was running Toda C's on my stock timing belt. The belt had 40k miles on it when I put the Toda C's in. My timing belt lasted about 2,000 miles. I basically made the trip to Expo 4 and back and the timing belt lost 14 teeth. I am currently running RLZ Stage 3 cams with a Toda timing belt. 800 miles so far and

 

You need a cam with not as sharp of a ramp angle. The sharp angles are what cause the stress on the belt.

JUN 3's, for example have a very mild ramp angle. And you can use OEM belts for 90k.

Unfortunately this is not a well documented measurement...unlike lift and duration.

 

Rocket Motorsports M22X
More peak and midrange than Jun3, and made in AMERICA.

 

Only one choice for me: Jun3's

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=295152

Old thread from a rather reputable person

 

I've lasted more than 40,000kms with my B's before I sold them for JUN3's, and I was running on stock belts too.
I still miss them B's, they treated me good

 

reliable cams=stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reliable cams=stock</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahem... reliable cams= toda i have put 20k on oem belts with no problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jr_istheman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my question is : will I have any problems running CTR cams on a 12.5 comp b20 vtec? are CTR cams made to see that high comp? will CTR cams work with my TODA springs? what will the dyno yield in comparisson with my current TODA B's? I've accepted the HP/TQ drop already for the smart trade of reliability. but does any one know if it will be significant? dyno plots would be nice

thanks ITR members! </TD></TR></TABLE>

My roommate was running a little over 12.5 compression on his B20/V using CTR cams, and had no problems at all. It ran very well with Crower valvesprings/retainers. He was planning on stepping up to larger, aftermarket cams with his set up, but the car was stolen.

 

sounds like someone doesnt know how to properly install a timing belt.

 

OEM = 4 life

 

none of that bullshit of "improper belt tention". I'm sorry but that's just false. I am extremely **** about my car and what goes into it, including how things are installed.

Inline Pro in VA installed my first one. if there's a timing belt tention problem, the timing belt shouldn't of lasted 15k. it would of gave out before this. second time it was installed by Acura. I had the belt checked, double checked and triple checked for tention, I was aware of this "improper belt tention" that H-T members seem to swear by... this was NOT my problem. I blame the cams. I am not the first to complain about TODA B's snapping belts and I belt that I won't be the last. give it 1 month before the next TODA B user complains about my similar problem.

pardon my bluntness but this is exactly how I feel. yes, TODA has given me very nice power, I was very impressed with the mid range power and also their quality is top notch... but I could trade 10 HP for peice of mind of knowing that my car isn't a time bomb.

my 2 cents.

anyways, I would love to hear some stories about some CTR cam users and their experience with them; what is your current setup? any dyno plots? compression that you're using?

 

I feel this guys pain:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=295152

 

I would forget the CTR cam idea, if you want a mind cam go with Toda A's. I had them before my Jun3's and they were a nice welcome over the stockers.

 

skunk 2's are good. also jun

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jr_istheman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was aware of this "improper belt tention" that H-T members seem to swear by... this was NOT my problem. I blame the cams. </TD></TR></TABLE>

question....

do you have a thinner headgasket? shaved head? decked block?

in that case you CANNOT go by helms for install. you have to manually tension the belt, as when doing any of the above you effectively lengthen the belt. i check my tension every few months and occasionally it needs to be tightened. do you do any of this or just drove the **** out of the car waiting for the inevitable?

no offense, but blaming a set of cams for your timing belt issues is plain nonsense.

 

nonsense? I think not. stock B20 headgasket, stock B20 block, stock ITR head. I checked the tention more than my oil. I was aware of this problem and I did not want to happening again... yet it did.

and yes, I do blame the cams. name me 1 person that snapped a belt using CTR cams? how is it anything else but the cams? it's simple process of illimination.

I'll be researching these TODA A's even though I would hate sponsering this company any further.

... sorry, still pissed off my engine went again ...

 

all this aside, I'm still interested in knowing if the TODA springs are going to be ok with the CTR cams. any imput on this? thanks people.

 

i dont see why those springs wouldnt be ok with CTR cams.