so far i took off the side moldings. used a razor blade to scrape off the excess sticky stuff then sanded it down to the metal. then i used a DA(dual action) and used the feathering technique. my question is should i use fiberglass to fill in the holes or weld?? thanks guys



sorry photobuket re sized my pix

 

oh yeah this was the first time i used a grinder and a DA, do you think i did an alright job.

 

The first pic is perfect, all your holes should look like that, not like your 2nd. You need a nice radious around the hole to work with.

What i would do (and did) is weld on the inside a small piece of metal, just tack weld it on there, then duralas on top of that, then bondo smooth.

 

i only did one side of the car with the DA, the second pics is just using a grinder, ill finish next tomrorow.

 

i'm doing this as we speak, and have in the past.. DO NOT WELD THEM.. it warps so easy and its just overkill. Use jb weld, i get some very thin mild steel from home depot/whatever, cut a square that overlaps the hole of course and make sure to sand the back side as well. then mix the jb weld and apply over the entire metal surfuce. Also.. it might seem ghetto but i used aluminum from a mnt dew can this time.. its really thin and holds the jb weld/surfuce really smooth. I have pics, but its an instant camera so give me a day or two..

 

hey cool man, when you are ready can you please post pix on this thread?

 

I don't think that i would weld those either. I would prolly use either Duraglass or Fiber-all by UPOL.

 

little squares were made to fit exactly in the molding holes. spray weld-through primer, use a piece of tape to hold the square in, tacked it, and filled it.

here is a pic of my rear inner panel.

 

Im not saying weld a solid line. Just do like 3 or 4 tacks so it stays, like what imola-red DC2 posted.

 

shrug, its faster and stronger to just smeer jb weld over the entire square tab, also a lot safer... and you don't need to cut up your door to get to the last square(ek rears, crx, ef's)... or weld in a silly positon.. trust me i do this so often at shop its silly.. just use jb weld.. also i just finished anther headjob so i'll have my photos by tommrow night.

 

Whats the mixture you use for jb weld, When me and my friend used jb weld for his holes, it took a day or 2 for it to settle real good. would you make the mixture real thick so it dries up quick? For our mixture we had to keep bring up the little metal squar peice every hour or so cus it wuold droop down a little

 

I would just weld the holes right up.. Dont really need to cut little pieces.

Just adjust the welder and your technique accordingly.

 

update
guys i used fiberglass to fill in the holes then applied bondo over it? sound okay? will it turn out alright

 

i thnk that will crack soon after, cus the weather change and closing teh doors

 

The fiberglass and bondo will hold up just fine. The only thing to look for is shrinkage in the bondo. Let it dry and set for a couple of days (for good measure), then use some spot putty and feather it out. It won't fall out or break, as long as some of fiberglass made its way into the holes on the door. I used fiberglass to fill the molding holes on my teg and I have had no problem in the two years that it has been done. You'll be jsut fine

 

yeah its fine.. Just make sure you get it in thick.. maybe a few coats and sand the fiberglass FLUSh first before bondo... Dont use filler putty, glazing puttey etc.. Just use good short hair fiberglass filler and plastic bodyfiller, wet sand with 400 then 600.

Paint the back too if you can.

When i shaved my rear sprayer i just filled it wiht fiberglass because its the roof and would have been a pita to weld in a small patch..

 

Listen you definitly don't want to just weld it right up. Whoever said that apparently never tried filling in metal that thin with weld.

Anyhow you'll be ok if you use body filler. If you do though make sure to buy waterproof, something that is fiberglass reinforced. Trust me this stuff is way harder than regular body filler. It's the only thing to use over rust or holes. Just make sure when you go to fill the holes to get a good amount behind the hole so that it has a backing to keep the filler from releasing from the media, kinda like this
---T--- . The 'T' is the back of the filler in the hole ---- -----

Jb weld

 

doing this always results in the car looking like dick.

 

I don't think the intent is to go for a Ridler award winner. I think he wants to fill in the giant holes and bare meal that is on the car, and he's looking to do it himself. If he is and he wants to use body filler waterproof is the only way to go, its so much harder. And I can guarentee it can look good.

To do it well this way you should make the area your going to fill low. this allows you to make the surface flat and follow the contour of the metal. Plus material is needed on the front side of the patch as well.

 

i filled my rear wiper hole on my hatch by just welding a piece of sheet metal and then had the body shop fill it with some bondo and it looks nice

 

got a question, whats the difference between longer strands of fiberglass and shorterz??

 

Longer strands are used to fill bigger holes. The holes that you are filling will need short strand fiberglass. What did you use to fill the holes, what kind of fiberglass?

 

oh ****!!! i used long strands, but in a couple hours im going to apply bondo! oh ****....is it a big problem i used longer strands.

 

It still shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure that some of the filler made its way into the holes and inside the door, as long as it did you should be

 

ok i checked and itss all good, this morning i applied a thin layer of bondo all across (ill get pics tomorrow) then sanded it down right before it completely hardened. then i hit it with an 80, a finer sand paper with a medium board. tomorrow i most likely am going to have to re apply some more bondo then sand it down again and then use put some guide coat then go from there.....ill post pics, thanks for all your help guys