Is there any reason not to use a troque wrench to untorque lug nuts? My friend says I should use a breaker bar instead. The torque wrench seems to work fine enough. I assume that when you torque and hear the "click" and then keep torquing, you can exceed the amount of torque you have set for. Is that correct? Is it damaging the torque wrench to keep torquing after the click? Thanks in advance.

 

YES! (this is a clear way to damaging a torque wrench)

btw, you might want to check your calibration by using someone elses torque wrench.

 

I wouldnt use it... breaker bars are cheap, torque wrenches out of calibration are not (leaving loose lugs, etc).

 

I've used the same torque wrench for years to remove and re-install lug nuts at the track with zero problems. Everyone always says that you shouldn't do that, use breaker bars, blah, blah, blah. I always ignore them. I just checked it against a high end digital Snap-On (the one that beeps) my mechanic has and my torque wrench was within 5 lbs of his ultra-pricey one between 40 to 90 bs. Totally good enough for lug nut use and that is why the torque wrench has a reversing lever, I figure. Otherwise, why would they put it there if it was just a one way tool? I guessed it was for torquing left handed thread screw they must use in Australia. Some types of torque wrenches may not like being used in reverse, but mine certainly doesn't mind.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some types of torque wrenches may not like being used in reverse, but mine certainly doesn't mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
jup... mine has a switch that makes it useable for rh and lh threads.

If your lug nut was put on using that wrench... it should not be any tighter than when it was put on. Click it on and click it off.

I would not use a torque wrench to break stuff loose (stuff put on with air/etc.)

 

I even checked the instructions on my torque wrenches, and they do say not to use it as a nut breaker, such as when an ugly gorilla used a big impact to tighten some nuts. However in the section about how to use it correctly, they say to set the ratchet direction to the appropriate one (not clockwise only) you want to use. The one I use for lug nuts can go to 250 ft-lbs, so 80 ft-lbs is a walk in the park, in either direction, and it clicks nicely in forward or reverse. When you use the same torque wrench to torque hub nuts or other things that might need up to 150 ft-lbs, you know the tool was made to handle it. If you are really worried about it, just turn it up a bit when you take the nuts off, so it doesn't click, assuming they were torqued correctly in the first place, and set it back down when you tighten (then again you might forget). I like the light weight way of changing wheels. I just use a 12V Dewalt ( 2 batteries last a weekend) drill with a socket on it and another socket and 12" extension on the torque wrench. I thought of buying the battery powered impact gun, but why lug the heavy weight of it when you have to use the torque wrench regardless. I just walk around the car and loosen all the lug nuts, and then jack it up. Lightweight drill does the rest. Use a small roll-around bench and you can build Nascar type speed. Besides, loosening the nuts with the torque wrench adds to my exercise quotient.

 

I use the same setup... cordless drill and torque wrench, and now i'm wondering whether it's worth getting a breaker bar too.

 

I used to use my torque wrench (with no ill effect I might add) but since purchasing a Harbor Freight cordless impact wrench I can just jack up the car and power off the lug-nuts with ease

Christian

 

Am I the only person who loves to spin a T-bar around? It looks so cool!

Seriously, I did probably f'up my wrench when I was using to break some bolts once... how do you fix it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I just checked it against a high end digital Snap-On (the one that beeps) my mechanic has and my torque wrench was within 5 lbs of his ultra-pricey one between 40 to 90 bs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That torque wrench is crap and inaccuate! I went though 3 of them then got tired of it.. I'll stick to my click type and have it re-calibrated every year..

I bet if you send it in your calibration will be off!

 

where do you go and calibrate tq wrenches? say like a go ol' sears one? and how much does it cost, cuz if its more than like 25-30 bucks i think i would just buy a new wrench, haha.

 

Why not use a breaker bar and insure you aren't going to ruin your torque wrench. Breaker bars are pretty use full all over the car, so why not just have one?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your lug nut was put on using that wrench... it should not be any tighter than when it was put on. Click it on and click it off.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I respectfully disagree, Willard. I have never been able to loosen a lugbolt with the wrench set to the same torque that I used to tighten it. In my experience, the bolts expand and contract from the brake heat and they seem to work themselves in a bit more tightly than when I installed them. Perhaps they aren't applying any more force against the wheel, but the threads do indeed require more torque to remove them if they've experienced heat cycling since installation.

I've set my Craftsman click-type wrench at least 20 or 30 lbs. higher to remove a bolt torqued to 85 lb-ft. This seemed like a really mean thing to do to my torque wrench, so I use a breaker bar whenever possible to remove wheel bolts. Maybe I'm being a little silly, but I tend to view my torque wrench as an instrument and my breaker bar as an agry gorilla of a tool.
-Adam

 

I agree with decartesfool. Most torque wrench is not only made for one direction. They are made for left hand thread as well as right hand thread. As long as you set them to the highest and don't allow it to click when you break the lug nut loose. If it click, don't use them, use breaker bar as it went over the capacity of the torque wrench.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I the only person who loves to spin a T-bar around? It looks so cool!

Seriously, I did probably f'up my wrench when I was using to break some bolts once... how do you fix it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Love my T-Bar! My friends and I race to get the lugs off with them. Stylin, y0!

I just hate the way it bangs around my trunk with all my other crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used the same torque wrench for years to remove and re-install lug nuts at the track with zero problems. Everyone always says that you shouldn't do that, use breaker bars, blah, blah, blah. I always ignore them. I just checked it against a high end digital Snap-On (the one that beeps) my mechanic has and my torque wrench was within 5 lbs of his ultra-pricey one between 40 to 90 bs. Totally good enough for lug nut use and that is why the torque wrench has a reversing lever, I figure. Otherwise, why would they put it there if it was just a one way tool? I guessed it was for torquing left handed thread screw they must use in Australia. Some types of torque wrenches may not like being used in reverse, but mine certainly doesn't mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is EXACTLY the same as my experience, with my inexpensive (~$25) torque wrench.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by descartesfool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the light weight way of changing wheels. I just use a 12V Dewalt ( 2 batteries last a weekend) drill with a socket on it and another socket and 12" extension on the torque wrench. I thought of buying the battery powered impact gun, but why lug the heavy weight of it when you have to use the torque wrench regardless. I just walk around the car and loosen all the lug nuts, and then jack it up. Lightweight drill does the rest.</TD></TR></TABLE>

EXACTLY (again). I use an approach that is similar, but involves even LIGHTER weight. I don't like to pack more weight than I have to, and one of my track cars is "logistically challenged" when it comes to packing space, once I've got my track tires and jack inside. So I use a rechargeable cordless screwdriver, with a conversion bit to accept a 19 mm socket. It's even smaller and lighter weight than a cordless drill, and I really don't need a whole lot of power to twirl the lug nuts once I have broken them loose with the torque wrench. For me, it's perfect.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bet if you send it in your calibration will be off!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You would lose that bet. I've had the calibration of my torque wrench checked at a local transmission rebuilder and they found that it was dead on.

 

I used to have 2 torque wrenches. A good one that I used to torque things precisely and the one I use for lug nuts. I think I have changed enough tires that I know 80 ft-lbs by feel. If the wrench is off a little it won't matter but if its off a lot then I willl know by feel. Carrying a breaker bar is fine but the Harbor Freight cordless impact is better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I the only person who loves to spin a T-bar around? It looks so cool!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously! I love those things. It's real easy to get two arms into it and break loose just about any lugnut.